Finally fixed the clutch pedal. (pics inside)

After a bit of research, I gathered a hodgepodge of different parts in hopes of lowering my clutch pedal to a normal height. This has been my biggest complaint about the Cobra since I bought it.

Here is a pic of the clutch height now after all parts have been installed and adjusted.


The parts I installed:
MM clutch pedal height adjustment kit
MM firewall adjuster
Steeda quick release quadrant (the red one)
LDC clutch free play correction kit.

I knew this was going to be a PITA because of the lower clutch height I wanted. I also knew that this could pose a problem by putting excess pressure on the TOB if not adjusted correctly. With about half the clutch travel as stock I would have very little room for error.

I was initially going to use a MM quadrant with a stock ramp profile, but after research, it didn’t seem like that was going to work in this application. The only option I found that was specifically a quick release was the Steeda piece. The Steeda quadrant came with spacers for the main shaft, but nothing else.

I removed all the stock pieces, and installed the quadrant. It had a lot of lateral play because the back of the quadrant (closest to the firewall) had nothing to hold it into place. I didn't like that, but continued on with the installation. I suspected that the play was not right, but decided to wait on final judgment until I had finished the install.

I then installed the MM clutch height adjustment kit. That went on quick and easy, as did the firewall adjuster. I adjusted everything out, and to my joy had just a bit of free play in the clutch pedal before I installed the LDC free play correction kit.

We then put the car on the lift and installed the LDC free play correction kit. I then went out to test it. The clutch started to grab RIGHT off the floor. I had to jam the clutch to the floor to change gears. The car was cold, and as it warmed up, the tranny started to give me some resistance going into gears. I got home and raised the clutch pedal about a quarter inch. I went for a test drive, and everything was perfect. I don't have to have the clutch on the floor to shift, and can roll my foot off the dead pedal onto the clutch without moving it. SUCCESS!!

There was some creaking and groaning from under the dash, and I figured it was the quadrant walking around on the shaft. I woke up this morning and bought some plastic washers to shim the rear part of the quadrant. I noticed some wear inside of the back hole on the quadrant so I knew I was on the right track. Anyway, here are the results. The white shims furthest away in the pics are the ones closest to the firewall that I just installed.




I am still getting a little bit of noise from the system, but not like before I shimmed it. The adjustment hole\clutch cable is lined up with the quadrant, so I know it is not that. Do these setups generally make a little more noise than stock because of the metal quadrant riding on metal shafts? I was tempted to drill out the quadrant and install a delrin bushing. I don't know why anyone has made a quadrant like that yet. :shrug:

Ashley

Nice right up!! So you like this set-up alot better so far?

I tried the exact same setup on my car. I was never able to get enough pedal travel to shift smoothly and easily. After fiddling with it I finally gave up and removed the MM pedal height adjuster and went back to the stock height. Now it shifts great but I have the high clutch pedal (which I don't consider much of a problem).

stangd1909 said:

Nice right up!! So you like this set-up alot better so far?

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Yea its great! I don't know how I drove with it in the stock position.

The only bad part is that the firewall adjuster is unscrewed pretty far.


The threads are in the mount on the firewall but that is it. None of the adjuster is inside the firewall. I would not recommend the MM firewall adjuster if you are doing all the mods I did. I will probably buy some sort of locking firewall adjuster that uses more than one mounting point. I am not worried about the current setup going out of adjustment, as I needed a large set of adjustable jaw pliers to make adjustments

Ashley

THANKS!! Something I may think about doing now! Ya it is really unscrewed!! any chances that it may unscrew all they way? Or is it pretty tight?

stangd1909 said:

THANKS!! Something I may think about doing now! Ya it is really unscrewed!! any chances that it may unscrew all they way? Or is it pretty tight?

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It is fairly tight. I knew it was going to be unscrewed pretty far, so when I did the sanding to install the bushing on the clutch cable I was very conservative. This gave me alot of resistance when adjusting it. I'm confident it wont come out of adjustment, but I want to get a nicer firewall adjuster anyway for added security and strength.

LargeOrangeFont said:

It is fairly tight. I knew it was going to be unscrewed pretty far, so when I did the sanding to install the bushing on the clutch cable I was very conservative. This gave me alot of resistance when adjusting it. I'm confident it wont come out of adjustment, but I want to get a nicer firewall adjuster anyway for added security and strength.

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:thumbsup: Thaks for the info!!

LargeOrangeFont said:

The only bad part is that the firewall adjuster is unscrewed pretty far.
The threads are in the mount on the firewall but that is it.
Ashley

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Have you considered what happens when the motor torques over? From the picture, it looks as though the adjuster is touching the rocker cover, or almost anyway.
If that adjuster is in contact with the rocker cover now, you could have a problem.
The stock motor mounts are pretty soft.

You might want to have someone check while you apply a load to the engine.
Dana

Dana said:

Have you considered what happens when the motor torques over? From the picture, it looks as though the adjuster is touching the rocker cover, or almost anyway.
If that adjuster is in contact with the rocker cover now, you could have a problem.
The stock motor mounts are pretty soft.

You might want to have someone check while you apply a load to the engine.
Dana

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The adjuster is not in contact with the cover, but I suspect the valve cover comes in contact with the adjuster now and again. I have been worried about that since I installed the parts. Im getting the car dynoed tomorrow, and I had planned on checking for this problem then.

I'm going to make a plastic spacer that has a flatspot on one side to allow for engine movement. This will put the adjuster at about the middle of its adjustment range. I will also grind a flatspot on the flange of the clutch cable itself. This should provide plenty of clearance.

Mabye you guys @ LDC Chicago could develop such a spacer for people running similar components to my setup? Anyone that is running a stock clutch cable and has a lowered clutch pedal has to have a similar condition. The spacer could be made of alumnium, or a composite plastic to withstand the heat. Delrin would be ideal, but on the expensive side. The adjuster would be a breeze to adjust then.


Ashley

Good idea. I have the same issue.

Anyone know of a superior quality adjustable clutch cable? Or should I just get to work on a spacer?

does the fiore kit have these problems?

Wings65288 said:

does the fiore kit have these problems?

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Well the parts themselves aren't causing the problem (besides the shimming of the quadrant). I have created this issue because I want the clutch pedal lower. For me, the added bit of research and install time is well worth it. It works great and the car is much easier to drive.

A Fiore kit should be fine as long as you dont get a pedal adjustment kit.

LargeOrangeFont- are you talking about a spacer, about 1/2" thick, that would go between the cable housing end and the face of the adjuster screw? That is a good idea because then you'd be able to screw the adjuster in enough to clear the valve cover. I could probably make that but I'm not sure what the demand would be. I'd have to make at least 100 of them. Then there is the issue of different adjuster screw-grip diameters. I think the Micro-Click diameter is smaller than your MM screw-grip. Also, the diameter of the stock cable is less than the aftermarket cables so I'd have to make two different size spacers. What do you think?
Joe

Microclick said:

LargeOrangeFont- are you talking about a spacer, about 1/2" thick, that would go between the cable housing end and the face of the adjuster screw? That is a good idea because then you'd be able to screw the adjuster in enough to clear the valve cover. I could probably make that but I'm not sure what the demand would be. I'd have to make at least 100 of them. Then there is the issue of different adjuster screw-grip diameters. I think the Micro-Click diameter is smaller than your MM screw-grip. Also, the diameter of the stock cable is less than the aftermarket cables so I'd have to make two different size spacers. What do you think?
Joe

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Joe,

Yes, that is what I am talking about. Thsi spacer could be made such that the clutch cable flange fits inside the spacer, and The larger area of the flange sits against the spacer. It would need to be long enough for the spacer to fit inside the firewall adjuster. You could make it out of plastic, and put grooves every 1\4 inch or so. This would make it easy for users to custom fit the spacer. They can cut off the extra length that they don't need.

I would possibly consider making an optional quick release quadrant, and sell this spacer with that quadrant. That should give you the demand for this product.

You have identified the only possible issue with the product, and that is different inside diameters of various firewall adjusters. I am changing out my MM firewall adjuster when I get a solution to my issue.

I would be very willing to help you develop a product like this. If there is anymore information I can provide, please let me know.

Ashley

LargeOrangeFont said:

Joe,

Yes, that is what I am talking about. Thsi spacer could be made such that the clutch cable flange fits inside the spacer, and The larger area of the flange sits against the spacer. It would need to be long enough for the spacer to fit inside the firewall adjuster. You could make it out of plastic, and put grooves every 1\4 inch or so. This would make it easy for users to custom fit the spacer. They can cut off the extra length that they don't need.

I would possibly consider making an optional quick release quadrant, and sell this spacer with that quadrant. That should give you the demand for this product.

You have identified the only possible issue with the product, and that is different inside diameters of various firewall adjusters. I am changing out my MM firewall adjuster when I get a solution to my issue.

I would be very willing to help you develop a product like this. If there is anymore information I can provide, please let me know.

Ashley

Click to expand...

"The larger area of the flange sits against the spacer."
Did you mean...The larger area of the spacer sits against the adjuster? I would think the spacer could just butt up to the cable flange and the adjuster...sandwiched in between the two. The spacer could have a thin cut-out so that all you would have to do is hold onto the cable, screw the adjuster in 1/2", slip the spacer onto the cable and then slide it onto the cable flange-end, then tighten up the adjuster. This would keep you from having to unhook the cable from the quadrant. As a result, the adjuster screw would be turned 1/2" or so into the firewall, keeping it off of the valve cover and your clutch adjustment stays the same.
"It would need to be long enough for the spacer to fit inside the firewall adjuster." Why would the cable flange have to fit inside the spacer. The flanged-cable end fits into the adjuster so I don't see why this would be necessary. If the spacer is 1/2" then 1/2" of the cable-end will be in the adjuster since it is 1" long. IF the spacer was thicker than 1/2" THEN I would have to make a spacer with an extension to fit inside the adjuster screw.


Joe

Joe,

In my particular case, I could use around 1-1.25 inches of spacer and be in the middle of the adjustment range on the firewall adjuster, and safely away from the valve cover. Obviously, I am a extreme example, but the idea of not having to adjust the adjuster to take the clutch cable out is very nice. I will take some pictures tonight and post them here to show you the dimensions I am working with.

Ashley

The flange I am refering to is the black flange on the clutch cable itself, identified here


I invision a similar flange on the spacer butting up against this flange on the clutch cable. The flange on the spacer will be a D shape to provide clearance for the valve cover

Ashley,

I'm curious about the switch mounted behind the metal plate under the quadrant...the switch that keeps you from starting the car unless the pedal is depressed. When you installed the pedal height adjuster, the quadrant bracket raises up as well (and it is the bracket that presses down on that switch). Does this set-up still keep the switch engaged or can you start the car now w/o depressing the clutch pedal?

You still have to depress the clutch pedal to start the car. You CAN start the car with the clutch slightly slipping, but it is not fully engaged. It isn't enough to cause any damage to the car or property (the car won't lurch forward).

I believe the switch can be adjusted. I intend to adjust it so it is foolproof when I install the spacer and swap firewall adjusters in the near future.

Ashley