5.0 Heads/Cam/Intake upgrade **Info thread**

Looking to do h/c/i on my 93 fox with 65k original miles. I cant seem to find a very good thread with helpful info on this simple upgrade which many people have done. Thought it would be helpful for others wanting to build up their 5.0 as well. Give all your thoughts that you can provide. Keep this focused on just making the install work with the engine. No tranny info or subframe or any other stuff like that. I want the best setup for street.I have a couple questions i need answered so far. Ill have more probably later.

1. Which is the best package money wise? (Trick flow?) Or list the items
seperatly for a better combo.

2. Do i need a bigger injectors, fuel pump, etc?

3. Do i need to make any changes to ignition system? If so, what?

4. Bigger maf?

5. Egr spacer? Throttle body?

All i can think of for now.
Help me and others with your much appreciated experience and knowledge.

anyone here that has done this?

A good person to talk to about the best combination for your vehicle would be Jay Allen at Camshaft Innovations, he knows his shit and will help you put together a killer combination.

Give him a call tomorrow and let him know what you'd like to do...

www.camshaftinnovations.com

Thank you for the contact info man.

You could do the trickflow combo and it would net you around 300rwhp which is definately streetable and your car will sound sick. The stock injectors will work with that much power but it wouldn't be a bad idea to upgrade to 24lb'ers and upgrading the fuel pump to at least a 190lph. I would suggest a 65-70mm throttle body, in which you'll also need to upgrade the EGR spacer. Your stock ignition system is fine for a mild HCI combo. I suggest getting a new MAF meter. You'll have to get one anyways if you upgrade injectors. You'll of course need a new gasket set and headbolts. You might want to switch out your timing chain while it's open. Plus other little things like a new thermometer, waterpump, belt, you also might want to go ahead and do underdrive pulleys. It saves a lot of time just doing it all at once.

Oh yeah, you'll need new roller rockers. Which kind will depend on the cam. I think trickflow heads also use a longer pushrod. Good luck. That's all I can really think of.

Man. Once again, poopnut to the rescue. You really know your 5.0's. What MAF do you recommend. Also tell me more about the roller rockers.Thanks. Also would you recommend upgraded pushrods Thanks

www.flowtechinduction.com <--- He knows camshafts.

ShortThrow50 said:

Man. Once again, poopnut to the rescue. You really know your 5.0's. What MAF do you recommend. Also tell me more about the roller rockers.Thanks. Also would you recommend upgraded pushrods Thanks

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I know the basics. I had a granatelli on mine which is basically the same thing as the pro-flo's and it worked fine. I forgot what the specs are on the trickflow cams. I think the stage 1's are like a .512 lift on both intake and exhaust with a 112 LSA or something. Basically the same thing as my old anderson N-412 cam which sounded awesome and had a decent power band and was totally streetable with the A/C on full blast during the summer heat. No idle problems. I think I had 1.6 scorpion rockers which popped off a couple times, but I think my friend Patrick set the lash wrong. I just turned the crank until he told me to stop.

I'd make a thread on the corral or something that's more 5.0 oriented. This site is mostly a modular motor site so the pushrod threads get limited views and replies.

poopnut2 said:

I know the basics. I had a granatelli on mine which is basically the same thing as the pro-flo's and it worked fine. I forgot what the specs are on the trickflow cams. I think the stage 1's are like a .512 lift on both intake and exhaust with a 112 LSA or something. Basically the same thing as my old anderson N-412 cam which sounded awesome and had a decent power band and was totally streetable with the A/C on full blast during the summer heat. No idle problems. I think I had 1.6 scorpion rockers which popped off a couple times, but I think my friend Patrick set the lash wrong. I just turned the crank until he told me to stop.

I'd make a thread on the corral or something that's more 5.0 oriented. This site is mostly a modular motor site so the pushrod threads get limited views and replies.

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Ok thanks man. One more question. Doesnt the trick flow street head top end kit come with everything (heads assembled, new timing chain assembly, pushrods,etc)?

I did the tried and true gt-40 package on my old fox back in 1992 when your only option was the iron L-302 casting. It was a great combo, and with the e-303 I eventually bought, long tubes and 4.10's I eventually turned low 12's...

Today if I were doing it, I would go with the TFS package and go with the bigger of the two intakes so I had room to grow (read stroker motor)
You will need at least 24lb injectors, I would go with a 255 in-tank pump (so you don't have to do that again) and at least an 80mm pro-m if there are any still around. I would run at least a 65mm throttle body, but would prefer the 70mm (again room to grow). I would get an adjustable fuel pressure gauge, switch to an electric cooling fan from a mark 8 and the fan controller like DCcontrol sells, and put it all together.

Headers are up to you...Long tubes work the best as we all know but the shorties do work well on the 302's.

That combo would get you (as previously stated) @ 300 rwhp and plenty of torque. It will be more then enough to get you deep into the 12's at 3300 lbs.
It is a tried and true package that will give you no problems with driveablility just lots of miles with a lot more power...

John and Renae said:

I did the tried and true gt-40 package on my old fox back in 1992 when your only option was the iron L-302 casting. It was a great combo, and with the e-303 I eventually bought, long tubes and 4.10's I eventually turned low 12's...

Today if I were doing it, I would go with the TFS package and go with the bigger of the two intakes so I had room to grow (read stroker motor)
You will need at least 24lb injectors, I would go with a 255 in-tank pump (so you don't have to do that again) and at least an 80mm pro-m if there are any still around. I would run at least a 65mm throttle body, but would prefer the 70mm (again room to grow). I would get an adjustable fuel pressure gauge, switch to an electric cooling fan from a mark 8 and the fan controller like DCcontrol sells, and put it all together.

Headers are up to you...Long tubes work the best as we all know but the shorties do work well on the 302's.

That combo would get you (as previously stated) @ 300 rwhp and plenty of torque. It will be more then enough to get you deep into the 12's at 3300 lbs.
It is a tried and true package that will give you no problems with driveablility just lots of miles with a lot more power...

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great info. Keep it coming

ShortThrow50 said:

Ok thanks man. One more question. Doesnt the trick flow street head top end kit come with everything (heads assembled, new timing chain assembly, pushrods,etc)?

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I don't know. Sorry. I'm sure you could call or email whoever you're buying it from and they'll be able to tell you.

poopnut2 said:

I don't know. Sorry. I'm sure you could call or email whoever you're buying it from and they'll be able to tell you.

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i was actually looking at topend kits in the first couple pages of mm and ff magazine. I see here on like the fifth page the trick flow kit comes with all that crap, even the timing chain kit.
Check this out.
You get all this for $2149.00

set of twisted wedge heads
track or street heat intake manifold SET
roller camshaft
roller rocker arms
pushrods
timing chain set
gasket kit
valve covers to match

I dunno sounds like a good price anyway

summit also sells that package as well...this is a great thread because I am thinkin on comin back to the 5.0 world and have been contemplating this exact setup with some nitrous for the 11s but i wasn't sure of what supporters i would need

The nice thing about the TFS package, as well as The Gt-40 Package that some of the other vendors sell, is that they are pretty complete.

I did the Gt-40 stuff because I wanted to have all Ford Parts under the hood, and of course back in 1992 there was not much else out there except the Old J-302 heads, iron high-port Tfs, and the Gt-40 gear. I think the big darts were just becoming available...

I also stuck with it because ole' Gene Deputy from the long defunct Texas Turbo, gave me a great piece of advice...Stick with Motorsport Parts becaue they fit...and they always did...

Anyway, I like the TFS Stuff because the Twisted Wedges are enough cylinder head to support a stroked windsor if ported properly. The Intake will easily support 600hp if you wanted to do a stroker and some sort of forced induction.

I know the N/A fox combinations are nothing compared to a Terminator, but I ran my old fox N/A for most of its life, and to be honest it was most durable and enjoyable in the low 12's.

It did not use any parts, and on the street was a hoot...My problem with the gt-40 gear is I could not grow into a stroker engine without going in and re-doing the top end to support the extra cubes. I mean, you could run a 347 with the old gt-40 gear but you would be trying to feed the beast thru too-small a set of heads, and too small an intake to manage what the engine would be capable of...

Today the price for this stuff is just too attractive. 2200.00 bucks for everything you get is a steal...

Good info fella's...I am new to the fox world and it was good reading this:thumbsup:

I heard some people have lost low end torque with trick flow. Anyone know if this is true? who knows, maybe those people didnt do something right. The one thing i do not want to lose is low end torque.

Mike- if possible ( I know you have a 306 though) list what you have top end wise.

It depends on which intake you use.
The track heat or the street heat.
The track heat is more of a higher rpm, larger intake like the old Vortech/Saleen intake that will feed the larger stroker engines and FI engines best.
The street heat is a longer runner intake like a Gt-40 or Cobra and does promote better low end.

The only reason I would go with the track heat is the fact that I would run 4.10's at a minimum on a n/a street engine, and it gives me plenty of room to grow.

ShortThrow50 said:

I heard some people have lost low end torque with trick flow. Anyone know if this is true? who knows, maybe those people didnt do something right. The one thing i do not want to lose is low end torque.

Mike- if possible ( I know you have a 306 though) list what you have top end wise.

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It's the idiots who try to go big with a small engine, naturally aspirated. I say go with the street heat because you will not lose torque, and there is plenty of room to grow. Also, don't go with a 75 or 80mm throttle body or anything. It's just overkill.

Just an FYI, a 306 isn't much different than a 302. Actually, the only reason to go to a 306 is when the cylinder walls start looking like crap so they're bored out to a 306.

Good points Poopnut2...

A common problem is going too big with all the parts from heads and intake to throttle bodies, injectors, etc...

I remember quite a few guys back in the early 90's running faster with the old iron gt-40 heads than with the tfs high ports on stock short block 302's. They were both 64cc heads and the engines lost a little compression going to them anyway.

One of my friends back then had high ports, a modified gt-40 upper intake 75mm t/b, rci headers, etc. He was the first/only Vortech A-trim car I ever saw hit the 10's...This was with stock pistons and rods by the way.

He took the blower off, and set the car up n/a with 4.10's (like I had). He never was able to run a faster ET than me on motor, and I had the little heads/cam combo...