Shifting a T45 Quicker 101...

Ciotti

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Well, we've been delt a bit of a shitty card when it comes to grabbing the next gear quickly with our T45's. From what I've heard that can be remedied during a rebuild by filing the teeth on the shifter rings to a point so that they will grab the synchro's better than the factory square cut edges. This was not done to my T45 when it was rebuilt :bash: but I have found a few small ways to grab that next gear a bit quicker.



First off, an aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster would probably be a good start if you don't have them already. I have the UPR triple hook quadrant and firewall adjuster and they work great, with the triple hook you have a ton of drastic adjustability with the cable then with the firewall adjuster you can fine tune where the clutch engages in your pedal throw.

In a recent issue of Grassroots Motorsports they had a good test to make sure your firewall adjustor is set properly and that your clutch is fully disengaging...
With the car on and stopped, put the clutch to the floor and push the gearshift into first, pull it immediately into neutral, then push it right back into first. If your clutch is fully disengaged, it should slide right into first nice and easy that second time. If it doesn't and there is resistance getting it into first, you may need to set the engagement point of your clutch up a bit higher in the pedal throw.



Second, hammer the clutch pedal to the floor when you shift. This may sound like an easy one, but I've been driving manual cars hard as hell every day for the past 8 years and because of my tendancy to drive nice and smooth when not at the race track I've developed a bad habit. You can get very used to the lazy clutch stomp you do a million times in regular traffic and for me it has made a hell of a difference now that I consciously tell myself (usually after looking at the note on my dash board) to pound the clutch to the floor on quick shifts.



Third, preload that shifter. The one thing that has sped up my shifts the most is to not wait for my brain to tell my hand "ok, the clutch is going down, shift now" and to just pull or push on the shifter towards the next gear as you are approaching your shift point. This way, the second the clutch starts to disengage the shifter will come out of the gear it is in and smash headlong into the next gear's synchro's so they can start doing their thing. Try not to push too hard as if you hit those synchros hard enough you will push right through them and grind the gear. This will happen to me even with a freshly rebuilt transmission, so I push firmly but not as hard as I can.



To remind myself of all this crap I actually have it written on a small piece of tape on the dash, whatever works my friends! There's so much going through my mind as the car pulls up in the other lane on the street or track, this is just one less thing I have to remember as it's written right there where I can see it :rockon:



The last thing is something I personally do, but it technically may not yield the fastest track times... I yank my foot off the gas very quickly as I'm hammering the clutch down... There is no way I can powershift this tranny without bouncing off the fuel cut, and after trying this method and speed shifting (holding the revs up during the shift) I'm able to get the car into the next gear a bit quicker this way and get the power right back on. I do have an aluminum flywheel and IAC restrictor in so my revs drop pretty quick which helps, but I'm making the synchros do less work in making up the difference in revs between the motor and the driveshaft which I like.



The last thing that definitely helps but can and will lead to missed shifts is to anticipate when the shifter will snap into gear and start letting up on the clutch a bit early. I don't really do this too much any more as I HATE missing shifts and the tranny is just a bit unpredictable as to exactly how long it will take the synchro's to do their thing and let the shifter into gear. BUT, for the most part you know how long it will take the shifter to snap home into that next gear and you can just pound the clutch down, wait that amount of time, then let the clutch out. That is definitely faster than waiting for your mind to process the shifter snapping into gear then telling your left foot to come up off the clutch then your left foot actually coming up off the clutch.


Thoughts and/or comments????

For the record, this is all stuff that I've sorta learned/figured out by doing, not just reading on the net :)
 
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Ciotti

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I'll throw a link to this up in the common info sticky, but we've already got a ton of stickies I'm not sure if the mods want any more :)

PS: This thread proves that I can in fact be productive at work! :burnout:
 
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98 svt

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If you put pressure on the shifter BEFORE you put you engage the clutch, then the car will pop out of gear, correct?
I know mine does.
 

NXCaaabra

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i duno but i dont have problem shifting my t45, sounds about like and auto shifting gears............
 

96cobrakid

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i didn't think i ever had a problem with mine either, mabey we need to put some videos up of us shifting to see how everyone does
 

Ciotti

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badass98, if you are on the gas you should be able to pull on the shifter pretty dam hard without it popping out of gear. So much so that I've never had it pop out of gear when preloading the shifter and I've specifically pulled harder than usual just to see if that would happen.


Some of the fastest shifts I've managed to crack off are in the two quarter mile blasts in this video...
http://www.njaoc.net/media/Karz/Videos/June15AtcoBig.mov (right click and save target as)
 

PACIFICGREENSVT

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Ciotti said:
I'll throw a link to this up in the common info sticky, but we've already got a ton of stickies I'm not sure if the mods want any more :)

PS: This thread proves that I can in fact be productive at work! :burnout:
LOL WOW YOU DID THAT AT WORK ?
 

Bullitt66

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badass98svt said:
If you put pressure on the shifter BEFORE you put you engage the clutch, then the car will pop out of gear, correct?
I know mine does.
don't put to much pressure....
 

Bullitt66

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NXCaaabra said:
what kinda track is that , look slike a long parkinglot
yeah yeah, i know it looks "ghetto"...:)


im in Guatemala, the track is new, is getting better every time i go..and is the best in all Central America...

trust me, there are worst tracks here... :(
 

RippinSVT

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I kick the shit out of my clutch pedal like I'm mad at it. lol. I can always tell when I'm shifting well at the track because I can feel the frontend dive on the 1-2 if it's slow, and it stays up if it's fast.
 

4camwonder

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i can tell when i shift mine fast because it sounds like its going to make the rear end come out form under it... plus it shoots blue flames. (ohh yea, and when it tries to cross it up in all 4 gears is a good sign too...)


if you guys want to shift faster, when you rebuild them, just take every other tooth off of the gears.
 

98 svt

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jlauth said:
Hey thanks for the good info for some time i have been thinking of changing the quadrant and the fire wall adjuster. Which package on UPR's web page do you suggest. (http://www.uprproducts.com/shopping/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=123&cat=Fir
do you think that i should the cable and all? I was thinking of getting the 89.99 package before next summer.

DO NOT use the adjustable cable that comes in that kit. Use the stock cable.
All you need is a quad and firewall adjuster.
I have the "quick click" adjuster that UPR sells, and I love it:coolman:
 

Ciotti

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I have this set...

3004_T_LRG.gif


$60 and it works great
 

Bullitt66

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badass98svt said:
DO NOT use the adjustable cable that comes in that kit. Use the stock cable.
All you need is a quad and firewall adjuster.
I have the "quick click" adjuster that UPR sells, and I love it:coolman:
is the Adjustable Clutch Pedal Stop from UPR worth it?
 

NXCaaabra

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i have the fiore quadrant and adjuster..... i dont have to get out there with alen wrenchs or none of that crap... just click click and its god to go lol
 

98 svt

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My adjuster doesn't require allen wrenches either it just clicks and stays adjusted.

As far as the pedal adjuster goes, I never used one, so I dunno how well they work. I have wondered the same thing though
 

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