Well the engine is done...and I can't pay for a new one...

I made a post yesterday in the engine/tuning forum (http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?t=400859) about a bent valve in cylinder # 7 and found out it's the least of my problems is the least of my problems. Got a call from ford today saying that I need a whole new longblock. I guess a spark plug fried and was rattling around in my piston which totally screwed it up a long with some valves....according to them I need a new longblock and including labor it will cost me 7,500 which I don't have. Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated.
I'm like heartbroken...all my money I've worked for has gone into this car. Especially since I'm 20 and paid for the whole thing and everything done to it myself. Not a cent from the parents.
Any suggestions about short blocks or anything? Please help.

Sorry to hear man. I was reading your other post and I've mis-shifted a few times myself and hit the rev limiter a few times as well but still running strong. Are you sure this is what caused the problem? Good luck man.

Damn bro, sorry to hear that. I really feel for you

Sorry to hear that man, real bummer when you don't have the money to build her back up

Its terrible what happened, I wouldnt mind knowing whos tune it is and if it was dyno tuned ?
Well you can start saving your money or giving your money bit by bit to a local machine shop to rebuild your engine for you. ( I dont even know if you can change a motor ?)
Its alot of money for a 20 year old but I guess you have the car so maybe your rich. Is the car paid for ?
If I blew my junk up it would probably be sitting for like a year or till tax time

7168548 said:

Sorry to hear man. I was reading your other post and I've mis-shifted a few times myself and hit the rev limiter a few times as well but still running strong. Are you sure this is what caused the problem? Good luck man.

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According to them, something made the spark plug fry, and it rattling in the piston caused the damage. They are not totally sure if it was the mis-shift, but right after I mis-shifted, the whole car felt completely different, so I'm not sure. I wasn't even racing when I did it either

Well, I hope you aren't considering getting rid of the car considering you paid for it already. I would search for a $500 - $1000 Honda or like type used car...if youc an locate one. Hopefully, you'll save up the money soon. Just don't do something irrational like selling it. You can fix it and you know what you need to save, so be patient and don't overreact. I feel for you brother. The way I drive my Cobra, I always worry about something going bad after a bad run. But don't dump the Cobra!

Zorabot said:

Its terrible what happened, I wouldnt mind knowing whos tune it is and if it was dyno tuned ?
Well you can start saving your money or giving your money bit by bit to a local machine shop to rebuild your engine for you. ( I dont even know if you can change a motor ?)
Its alot of money for a 20 year old but I guess you have the car so maybe your rich. Is the car paid for ?
If I blew my junk up it would probably be sitting for like a year or till tax time

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Well the car is paid off luckily. I paid it off 5 months ago finally. I'm not rich though and don't have 8 grand hanging around. I'm looking at built short blocks though and they are around the 5 grand range for built everything. So maybe I'll go that route when I have more money.
It was custom dyno-tuned by Greg at R.E.T. and he did an amazing job. COMPLETELY safe tune and A/F right at 12 constantly. So it had nothing to do with the tune. Ford told me this as well.

Let me guess.. 12:1 AFR?

Find a reputable shop to rebuild it. It will be much cheaper than $7500.

You could get an MMR 900 or other aftermarket built block and new Jan 05 heads for less than $5K and install will be around $1k.

There are cheaper options available too, like rebuilding what you have, new shortblock and rebuild your heads etc.

EDIT : Got the AFR right on the nose!!!

Yah I think I want to go with a short block and try and get my heads rebuilt...where can I get the MMR 900?

LargeOrangeFont said:

Let me guess.. 12:1 AFR?

Find a reputable shop to rebuild it. It will be much cheaper than $7500.

You could get an MMR 900 or other aftermarket built block and new Jan 05 heads for less than $5K and install will be around $1k.

There are cheaper options available too, like rebuilding what you have, new shortblock and rebuild your heads etc.

EDIT : Got the AFR right on the nose!!!

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I find it amazing that from the 11.6/11.8 safe range to 12.1 that a few decimal points of fuel make such a difference in the safety of the tune. So what exactly is the story with the desired 11.6 - 11.8? Is it all about the temp going crazy in the heads or is the 12.1 A/F ripe for detonation if too much timing is added? I want to learn my friend. :read:

I somewhat feel your pain bro. I just spun a rod bearing and it couldnt happen at the worst time. Our central air also went out on our house. So there went 3k just for that. I am thinking about taking out a loan to fix it. I am going to just go ahead and buy a VT built shortblock. Thinking about the updated heads but I got to figure out what the price of them is first.

Go with MMR also, I mean hell while your at it clean the heads up and also if you can score a good price on an aluminum block throw that in their also.

-Josh

01cobravortech said:

I find it amazing that from the 11.6/11.8 safe range to 12.1 that a few decimal points of fuel make such a difference in the safety of the tune. So what exactly is the story with the desired 11.6 - 11.8? Is it all about the temp going crazy in the heads or is the 12.1 A/F ripe for detonation if too much timing is added? I want to learn my friend. :read:

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High EGTs can burn up plugs like the OP is describing. There aren't enough people in the terminator community that actively monitor EGT.

I consider low 11s safe, but I'm probably in the minority. You can run 12:1 or high 11s it is just on the edge. Why run on the ragged edge in a street car with pump fuel? With the tight piston to wall clearences these motors have, EGT and cylinder temps are very important to be aware of and keep in check.

LargeOrangeFont said:

High EGTs can burn up plugs like the OP is describing. There aren't enough people in the terminator community that actively monitor EGT.

I consider low 11s safe, but I'm probably in the minority. You can run 12:1 or high 11s it is just on the edge. Why run on the ragged edge in a street car with pump fuel? With the tight piston to wall clearences these motors have, EGT and cylinder temps are very important to be aware of and keep in check.

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ashley, I hope you don't think I'm patronizing you...but I have enjoyed your posts in the past regarding EGT temps. I know you have been paramount in bringing attention to this crtitical issue, but is it your position that keping EGT temps in check can be easily done by using an aftermarket midpipe and CB or do you feel that a header is critical as well? Obviously, its been established that a free flowing exhaust system is always to a motor's benefit. But when you stress the concerns over the EGT temps...are you also suggesting that everyone should be looking for a better 'breathing' header?

CobraMac said:

Yah I think I want to go with a short block and try and get my heads rebuilt...where can I get the MMR 900?

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www.modularmustangracing.com/prod_shortblocks.htm

01cobravortech said:

ashley, I hope you don't think I'm patronizing you...but I have enjoyed your posts in the past regarding EGT temps. I know you have been paramount in bringing attention to this crtitical issue, but is it your position that keping EGT temps in check can be easily done by using an aftermarket midpipe and CB or do you feel that a header is critical as well? Obviously, its been established that a free flowing exhaust system is always to a motor's benefit. But when you stress the concerns over the EGT temps...are you also suggesting that everyone should be looking for a better 'breathing' header?

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+1

I wouldnt feel that comfortable at 12.1.

Wow man sorry for your loss, I hope you get everything worked out dude

what plugs did you have in at the time ?

NGK TR7's