Major New Mods Coming - Need Advice - Sorry For Long Post!!!

firemanmike

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So I already have the mods in my sig. I am now adding the following, all at once next week (already got my appointment at my shop):

NOS wet kit #02120
Bottle warmer
WOT switch
Window switch
Purge kit
BilletFlow Throttle body (from new run)
Polish ported plenum
New plugs (if needed)
Possible taller gears; 3:55's to 3:73's or 4:10's
Re-tune on Dyno
Bogart 16" x 11" with QTP 28" X 11.5"
Bogart 15" x 4 1/2" with some Jap skinnies

So I've got a lot of questions and need help. I don't want my shop telling me what they want to do, I want to tell them what I want (of course I will listen to their expertise on these mods, but when there's an option on how or what to do, I need to know what I want) and need you guys to help with this.

1. The biggest question (and I know the search nazi's have been held at bay lately by the mods, please don't let them start now, I've searched an read untill my eyes bled!!!) is do I need to do any fuel upgrades? MAF, BAP or better fuel pump or injectors???

2. Should I change my plugs to another brand/style or heat range? Current plug in sig. Should my gap be the same (It's already very tight at .028 from what I've heard, but motor is putting down what I think are GREAT numbers for current mods).

3. I am going to start with the 100 shot nitrous and corresponding fuel jet, if that helps with the above questions.

4. Should I invest in a fuel pressure safty switch?

5. What will I get (besides better throttle response and GREAT BLUE ANODIZED COBRA ENGRAVED BLING FACTOR) from the new BilletFlow throttle body? Are there HP increase to be had with this?

6. Current timing is 23*. How much should be pulled, if any?

7. Bogart 28" slicks. Do I need taller gears? Or I leave the stock 3:55's?

8. I am confused about what to do with the tune. Right now I have a snyper flash to the cars computer. Do I need to spend more money and buy a multi tune hand held? Or do I just need to dyno it, check A/F and timing are okay and leave it? How much of an advantage is it to have a hand held with a street tune, strip& nitrous tune (and if I buy a hand held a valet tune to stop assholes from playing with MY toy!!!) I have been told by my tuner that in his experience a flash to the cars computer for some reason seems to work better then the same exact tune running off a Diablo or SCT unit. I don't know if this is true yet, but hope to not have to buy a hand held and find out it is true. They do say I should have multi tunes for a car with a wet nitrous set up.

9. Last (I know, thank god) do I need to do anything else, parts or tune wise, for this NOS kit, throttlebody, poted plenum deal to all work together properly. Also, with the 28" tires, is there anything to do to the tune (or anything else) to get this whole set up runing right?

I am sure that I will probably (very shortly) need a new clutch to handle everything. At that point I'll do a cooling mod and get a 31 spline input shaft, as well as the upgraded TOB and flywheel, but even there I am unsure which way to go. Any suggestions, from people running these parts, or tuners/installers that can help, I am all ears!!!

My install date is 9/20, so if I need to get parts quick to be completely ready, please sound off. I also have a track rental on 10/15 and am hoping to be asked to leave when I run that 11.5 or better!!!

Again, any help is greatly appreciated. As soon as it's all in and I have new dyno numbers I'll post them. Then I'll post up the day at the track, good or bad!!! But I am hoping for a good day with no broken parts!!!

Thanks to anyone that reads all this and helps out with their knowledge. A big SVTperformance :beer: :beer: :beer: to you all.
 
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04MystiCobra

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Your current plug gap is too small for running w/o the spray. You can open it up a bit.

1. Yes. I'd say BAP and injs at least. You're approaching the limit of the MAF too.
2. Gap is fine. I use NGK TR6
4. I dont use it. I do use my DJWBC to turn off the spray if my a/f goes above 12.0:1
5. You'll gain a little but the new BF T-bodies ahvent been proven yet. Doubt it will be more than 5-10.
6. If you run pump you better believe you gotta pull some timing out. I'll let the pros say how much.
8. With these cars you always want to check the a/f, especially when adding the sauce. Motors anit cheap.
You'll need a clutch pretty soon after spraying. My stocker lasted a little bit but it was pretty smoked. I no longer can spray cuz it blows right through the clutch(100 shot).

fyi - If you go ported blower and lower you'll have an extra 50+whp and 50+wtq all the time!
 
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firemanmike

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04MystiCobra said:
Your current plug gap is too small for running w/o the spray. You can open it up a bit.

1. Yes. I'd say BAP and injs at least. You're approaching the limit of the MAF too.
2. Gap is fine. I use NGK TR6
4. I dont use it. I do use my DJWBC to turn off the spray if my a/f goes above 12.0:1
5. You'll gain a little but the new BF T-bodies ahvent been proven yet. Doubt it will be more than 5-10.
6. If you run pump you better believe you gotta pull some timing out. I'll let the pros say how much.
8. With these cars you always want to check the a/f, especially when adding the sauce. Motors anit cheap.
You'll need a clutch pretty soon after spraying. My stocker lasted a little bit but it was pretty smoked. I no longer can spray cuz it blows right through the clutch(100 shot).



fyi - If you go ported blower and lower you'll have an extra 50+whp and 50+wtq all the time!


Thanks for your opinion, 04MystiCobra!!! :beer: :beer: :beer:

Any others out there???
 
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boosted2000si

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1. The biggest question (and I know the search nazi's have been held at bay lately by the mods, please don't let them start now, I've searched an read untill my eyes bled!!!) is do I need to do any fuel upgrades? MAF, BAP or better fuel pump or injectors???



Yes you will need fuel. I like the modified FPDM and gt pump with the delete



2. Should I change my plugs to another brand/style or heat range? Current plug in sig. Should my gap be the same (It's already very tight at .028 from what I've heard, but motor is putting down what I think are GREAT numbers for current mods).


Im going to run the TR6's with the same up you are going to run, and Im actually going more spray, so I would say the TR6's will work fine. A fresh set will be good though.


4. Should I invest in a fuel pressure safty switch?



YES, safe is better! However you should also have a wideband & window switch in your car if your going to spray like that and you can run the AUX out put off the wideband to the window switch so it will shut the pray down if it leans out too much.



So either way you go you want a safety measure. I am going both!



5. What will I get (besides better throttle response and GREAT BLUE ANODIZED COBRA ENGRAVED BLING FACTOR) from the new BilletFlow throttle body? Are there HP increase to be had with this?


I think the BF TB will be a single blade, and if thats the case you will need a plentum. More flow = power. Maybe not a ton, but its still helps out. I would say with the TB & Plen. you should see 8-10 hp. Dont hold me to that, but I think thats roughly what I made off mine.



6. Current timing is 23*. How much should be pulled, if any?

Your tuner should know what to do, if not find another tuner.

7. Bogart 28" slicks. Do I need taller gears? Or I leave the stock 3:55's?

Couldnt help you there man, sorry


8. I am confused about what to do with the tune. Right now I have a snyper flash to the cars computer. Do I need to spend more money and buy a multi tune hand held? Or do I just need to dyno it, check A/F and timing are okay and leave it? How much of an advantage is it to have a hand held with a street tune, strip& nitrous tune (and if I buy a hand held a valet tune to stop assholes from playing with MY toy!!!) I have been told by my tuner that in his experience a flash to the cars computer for some reason seems to work better then the same exact tune running off a Diablo or SCT unit. I don't know if this is true yet, but hope to not have to buy a hand held and find out it is true. They do say I should have multi tunes for a car with a wet nitrous set up.


Well hand held units, or flip switches will elt you change the tune either on teh fly or in seconds. So you can have a tune on you for race gas and race tune, a tuner for street gas and daily commute, or race gas on the street ect.... You are running a wet shot so it will add the fuel for you, so he can retune the computer via a single flash and it will work, but you wont have all the maps to change to. I love my XCAL2, the data logging is awesome!!


9. Last (I know, thank god) do I need to do anything else, parts or tune wise, for this NOS kit, throttlebody, poted plenum deal to all work together properly. Also, with the 28" tires, is there anything to do to the tune (or anything else) to get this whole set up runing right?


Sounds like you have it under control, I hear the nitrous will react better on a ported blower so you may want to keep that in mind.


I am sure that I will probably (very shortly) need a new clutch to handle everything. At that point I'll do a cooling mod and get a 31 spline input shaft, as well as the upgraded TOB and flywheel, but even there I am unsure which way to go. Any suggestions, from people running these parts, or tuners/installers that can help, I am all ears!!!


I run the stock spline with aftermarket flywheel and clutch. Works like a champ.

Clutchmasters Light flywheel and ironman clutch kit.


Good Luck, Post up all the results/pics/videos/slips.


:beer: :beer:
 

Jimmysidecarr

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I have never run nitrous.

I'm not an expert by any means... but...

I believe you will need a MAF capable of reading more air... or a Mafia which extends the stocker's capability.

I believe you will max out your pumps... I used a BAP and a PPRV delete and wire upgrade instead of bigger pumps.

I don't know if injectors will be needed or not. At that power level without the shot being wet I would think you would need them.

Injecting your own fuel separate from the injectors may by-pass that issue... I would check with some tuners for a lot of these prep mod questions.

I like the user adjustable hand held tuners with multi tune capability. I use an SCT xcal2.

I might have missed it but I didn't see any cooling questions at all...:shrug:

I would run one step colder on the plugs... I like NGKs.
I would not change gears... NOS increases torque even more than turbos do... and it does it immediately... you will be tire limited as is.

On pump high octane 91/93 you will want less advance. Lots of tuners can do it so it retards on the hit.

Remember.... more power always makes more heat... :fart: :burn:


...
 
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firemanmike

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I am going to get a larger I/C coolant tank and another heat exchanger in the near future. What is the best heat exchanger (not necessarilly the most expensive but most effective) that the market now? Afco, LFP.... I am also going to add the head cooling mod when I change my clutch and input shaft.

My tuner tells me I shouldn't need more fuel or the fuel mods at this power level, but I am checking what he says and I'm starting to have my doubts on that. He is a well know Mustang only shop and is well regarded, but I can't chance my motor on his opinion only.

I can't believe that going with NOS is going to end up having me have to add all these supporting mods. I would have been better off just going to a twin screw from what it sounds like so far.

If I have the NOS installed without the fuel system upgrades, but get a fuel pressure safety switch, will it stop me from blowing up my motor if I run short on fuel? If that happens, I can then do all the fuel upgrades.

Anyway, please guys, keep the advise coming!!! It's a lot to absorb and sort out, but the more knowledge I can get before the better my chances are of getting this kit installed right WITHOUT blowing up my $14,000 engine!!!

Thanks and keep it coming, please!!!

Also, if anyone know a GREAT shop and tuner in the NY/LI area, I am all ears!!! I spoke to one in NJ, but they wanted 20 hours of labor just to tune a wet kit. Then I need to add another $1000 he wants to install it!!!
 
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04MystiCobra

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Twin screw or nitrous setups need just about the same supporting mods (fuel,clutch,cooling,tuning).
You're def going to need some sort of fuel system mod/ upgrade if you run a 100 shot.
 

ugotbit03

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Stock pumps + BAP + 60's + PPRV delete and wire upgrade = around 625 actual...

LFP makes a nice H/E for a good price...

With the wet kit pulling fuel from the rail there will be some sort of lean spike...

In NY there are many shops, Redline-Motorsports (link in sig) Wicked, Mustang Magic, JDM, Crazy Horse, you could make the drive to John Lund also...

I think the 28's will be too big, some have had problems with them rubbing. (04snake) The 26's work well with the 3.55's
 
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firemanmike

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I've run my rims and slicks already. They do not rub. He's running a soild axle, I'm running the stock IRS. My tuner doesn't think I need any fuel mods at all, just wants to dyno it to check A/F and timing. I am wondering about this. He's a well known guy, who has tuned this car before and done all my work, which I have never had any problems with. I am concerned. How would you know you need fuel mods on a dyno? It looks like I need to buy some more parts quick, but I'm not sure??? Need some quick help guys!!!
 

04MystiCobra

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Well maybe you won't with the wet shot. Maybe we're looking at it all wrong then.
Your stock injs aren't going to spray more fuel since the added fuel will be from the wet kit and since you're pushing 480whp you may still have some room for the stock fuel system to supply the fuel needed for 100whp.
I still think it will be close but I dont really know wet systems that well and how they affect a fuel system.
 

NOXCUSES

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I suggest a bigger tire. Like the 28x12.5 qtps. They will have a 10"tread. Keep in mind the 11.5s do not have a 11.5 in tread since it is a street slick
 

firemanmike

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Well, here's the last bump before the big install tomorrow. If all goes according to plan everything gets installed and then a (HOPEFULLY) a quick pull on the dyno to check A/F and the pump duty cycle and I'm done. All except a new H/E, bigger H/E tank, BAP, injectors, MAF,....When will it all end???
 

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