battery relocation kit

PushinTheLimit · Jan 15, 2008

I did a search on this and I found some info but not quite exactly what I was looking for.

I saw one on Steeda's site and also on Summitt Racing's site. Does anyone have a recommendation on either of those or something else as far as good quality? I don't care to spend a couple extra $$ if it means its worth it. The Steeda one looks good but I don't know. Anyone got any suggestions?

Juruense · Jan 15, 2008

Anytime there is a "most regretted mods" thread on a Mustang forum battery relocation is one that always comes up. I would never ever in a million years consider doing this to my Cobra or buying one that has had this done.

PushinTheLimit · Jan 15, 2008

Well, I read where some said it was a big regret, but others said it was just fine. I'm doing it more for weight distribution over the right rear and weight reduction from the front.

Why would it be such a regret? My buddy thinks if we use good wiring techniques, it should be ok.

Juruense · Jan 15, 2008

If you use good (expensive) wire and good termination technique it will most likely be fine. I would never do it but it is obvious when comparing your mods to mine that we have different goals for our cars

Jimmysidecarr · Jan 15, 2008

goldeneagle_10 said:
Well, I read where some said it was a big regret, but others said it was just fine. I'm doing it more for weight distribution over the right rear and weight reduction from the front.

Why would it be such a regret? My buddy thinks if we use good wiring techniques, it should be ok.

He's right.

No regrets here.. Just over a year with it in place. Make sure you get the kit that has the largest gauge cable. I think this may be where some people may have had some issues.
While you are in there I also recommend you add at least one additional ground to the engine. I added one just above the alternator, and later on(next time I have it up on jack stands) I'll add one near the starter.

I did not have any starting issues, I just like the idea of the added grounds.

..

PushinTheLimit · Jan 15, 2008

Kilgore Trout said:
If you use good (expensive) wire and good termination technique it will most likely be fine. I would never do it but it is obvious when comparing your mods to mine that we have different goals for our cars

Probably so on the goals, I'm going more for cone dodging and road racing:beer:

PushinTheLimit · Jan 15, 2008

Jimmysidecarr said:
He's right.

No regrets here.. Just over a year with it in place. Make sure you get the kit that has the largest gauge cable. I think this may be where some people may have had some issues.
While you are in there I also recommend you add at least one additional ground to the engine. I added one just above the alternator, and later on(next time I have it up on jack stands) I'll add one near the starter.

I did not have any starting issues, I just like the idea of the added grounds.

..

Thanks for the advice Jimmy... I'll be doing this sometime in the next month or two, with all the other little weight reductions that I'm doing... hopefully this will help in getting this car to turn a lil better and not plow so bad thru the turns.

SlowSVT · Jan 16, 2008

When dong this mod I could find not one battery box to my liking. So I folded one up using .125" 5052 aluminum. Had some concerns about the added weigh of running a heavy ground wire to the engine block as well and was not crazy about tying it to the thin carbon rich (nice way of saying "resistor") sheet metal in the trunk (not any more but that story is for another time). I also mounted a high amperage fuse block to the battery box for fire protection. Lined the box with acid neutralizing battery mat and put a starter relay in there to cut the juice to the battery cable when not in use. I'm running aircraft grade wire in my car which is pretty good stuff. Copper tinned braided line makes the best ground strap to reduce electrical noise. Be mindful of ground loops which can insert noise into the electrical systems. If your electronics start to act up you may want to try removing ground wires if you added ones not originally there but be very careful here. Removing a critical ground can make the power find an alternate path, one which you may not like. On occasion I design power distribution systems so I went to town on this set-up.

Putting the battery in the trunk has the effect of taking 80 lbs. off the nose sine the mass is now cantilevered off the rear axle instead of the other way around. I actually would have preferred putting it on the RH rear passenger seat floor board but didn't want to give up the passenger seat. Done right I think this is a worthwhile mod on a nose heavy Cobra

Lots of info and perhaps a bit overkill but I have never regretting going a little overboard.

Jimmysidecarr · Jan 16, 2008

SlowSVT said:
When dong this mod I could find not one battery box to my liking. So I folded one up using .125" 5052 aluminum. Had some concerns about the added weigh of running a heavy ground wire to the engine block as well and was not crazy about tying it to the thin carbon rich (nice way of saying "resistor") sheet metal in the trunk (not any more but that story is for another time). I also mounted a high amperage fuse block to the battery box for fire protection. Lined the box with acid neutralizing battery mat and put a starter relay in there to cut the juice to the battery cable when not in use. I'm running aircraft grade wire in my car which is pretty good stuff. Copper tinned braided line makes the best ground strap to reduce electrical noise. Be mindful of ground loops which can insert noise into the electrical systems. If your electronics start to act up you may want to try removing ground wires if you added ones not originally there but be very careful here. Removing a critical ground can make the power find an alternate path, one which you may not like. On occasion I design power distribution systems so I went to town on this set-up.

Putting the battery in the trunk has the effect of taking 80 lbs. off the nose sine the mass is now cantilevered off the rear axle instead of the other way around. I actually would have preferred putting it on the RH rear passenger seat floor board but didn't want to give up the passenger seat. Done right I think this is a worthwhile mod on a nose heavy Cobra

Lots of info and perhaps a bit overkill but I have never regretting going a little overboard.

GREAT POST!!! :rockon:

The reason I did an extra ground was the distance of the run and I was looking at the factory grounds and the proximity of them to high amperage things like alternators and starters.... and I also looked at the guage of the factory grounds... and I figured... It can't hurt.

SlowSVT · Jan 16, 2008

Jimmy

The factory ground wire is pretty small. As you probably know the longer the run the heavier guage wire you will need to minimize voltage drop. I'm running 2 AWG to the started. I'm not sure how many amps the starter will pull. Once it's installed. Just turn the engine over for 5 seconds and feel if the wire starts to get warm. If it gets hot, bump up to the next wire size.

I get my wire from Aircraft Spruce. Even though it's 2 guage it will carry more current then commercial grade wire because the strands are finer and more closly woven together (stay away from bare copper wire, it will corrode inside the insulator) . The jacket on this stuff is super tough and melts like teflon and doesn't "coldflow' like teflon. The high current fuse block is from a Marine supply store (West). Acid mat is from Spruce also.

64comet · Jan 16, 2008

Don't use the little 4 gauge wire that comes with most kits. Look close and make sure you are using at least 2 gauge if not larger. Just did mine and no issuses starting and no radio noise issues. Just make sure your grounds are good and clean.

Jimmysidecarr · Jan 16, 2008

SlowSVT said:
Jimmy

The factory ground wire is pretty small. As you probably know the longer the run the heavier guage wire you will need to minimize voltage drop. I'm running 2 AWG to the started. I'm not sure how many amps the starter will pull. Once it's installed. Just turn the engine over for 5 seconds and feel if the wire starts to get warm. If it gets hot, bump up to the next wire size.

I get my wire from Aircraft Spruce. Even though it's 2 guage it will carry more current then commercial grade wire because the strands are finer and more closly woven together (stay away from bare copper wire, it will corrode inside the insulator) . The jacket on this stuff is super tough and melts like teflon and doesn't "coldflow' like teflon. The high current fuse block is from a Marine supply store (West). Acid mat is from Spruce also.

Thanks for those sources! Good info!! :beer:
I used a high end car audio fuse holder... actually two of them. One for my main power feed, and a separate and smaller one for my fuel pump driver modual/boost-a-pump feed.

..

4sdvenom · Jan 16, 2008

I have a brand new still in the box Taylor battery relocation kit with the 1 gauge cable for sale!
Summit lists it for $159 + shipping

I'll sell it for $150 shipped!

PM me if your interested! I'm only selling it, because I have no time and lost interest for my Cobra and what I was going to do to it!

Ken

Boostin'Mystic · Jan 17, 2008

The taylor one is extremely nice. That is the one I want to switch with my current moroso one.

SlowSVT · Jan 17, 2008

Jimmysidecarr said:
Thanks for those sources! Good info!! :beer:
I used a high end car audio fuse holder... actually two of them. One for my main power feed, and a separate and smaller one for my fuel pump driver modual/boost-a-pump feed.

..

Jimmy

Did you retain your fuel pump cut-off switch? It's that little switch assembly with the red button inside the trunk behind the LH tail light. It a G activated switch that kills power to the pumps in the event of an accident. I think a lot of people over look this thing. I've converted to a return syetem and my feed is the size of a garden hose and safety is a big thing with me. I'm still wrenching on the car and have not gotten to how I'm going to wire it into the system. My pumps will be running 100% duty cycle. Just asking

Jimmysidecarr · Jan 17, 2008

SlowSVT said:
Jimmy

Did you retain your fuel pump cut-off switch? It's that little switch assembly with the red button inside the trunk behind the LH tail light. It a G activated switch that kills power to the pumps in the event of an accident. I think a lot of people over look this thing. I've converted to a return syetem and my feed is the size of a garden hose and safety is a big thing with me. I'm still wrenching on the car and have not gotten to how I'm going to wire it into the system. My pumps will be running 100% duty cycle. Just asking

YES!!!

I agree that would be a very bad item to by-pass.

battery relocation kit

PushinTheLimit

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