Distilled water...

For those of you who can't run glycol in your cooling system, what additives are you running and what temps are you seeing on the track with straight water? Thanks guys. Looking forward to next season. If the weather would break, I could finish squaring my K-member.

John

John

Why cant you run water wetter? Not sure why you would have to run straight water.

I run distilled water and water wetter in my 98 w/ a 180 degree stat and my temps are about 188-190 cruising on a normal day. I'm not sure what it will be on the track until I get out there on 2/9, but I did drop my temps a good 20 degrees with those 3 components.

racer said:

John

Why cant you run water wetter? Not sure why you would have to run straight water.

Click to expand...

I can run water wetter.

Sorry, dont know what I was reading.....
At cal speedway mine never got over 200 degrees until the belt came off I running a duel fan set-up with a Ron Davis rad, it was pretty hot day as well.

Are you guy running thermostats? I know some guys who run restrictor plates or gutted t-stats. Is the 180` t-stat the best route?

John

Sintore said:

Are you guy running thermostats? I know some guys who run restrictor plates or gutted t-stats. Is the 180` t-stat the best route?

John

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A "drilled out stocker" is what I recommend, because it retains the by-pass block off plate. The by-pass is huge and can allow an enormous amount of hot coolant right back into the engine if it (and the stock style stat) is eliminated.
Drilling 3 or 4 3/16" holes in the main diaphragm lowers the operating temp.

It also makes coolant filling a little easier.

Remember, only fill from the burp plug. Relieve pressure at the rad cap and then PUT IT BACK ON prior to opening the burp plug.
Do several drive cycles repeating this check and fill method, and hopefully you have zero "air issues".

I use a couple of bottles of water wetter and straight water. 220-230 during 40-45 minute race. I like the gutted/drilled thermostat idea, too. I have seen 260 water/ 240 oil.

I have a 91coupe with a FRPP 3 core radiator, taurus fan, and some holes in the bumper to feed air to the rad and oil cooler. I run a 180 high flow thermostat, straight water, and prestone anit rust agent. Water temp does not go over 183-185 degrees and oil temp stays at 189. I was under the impression that coolant was necessary before, well maybe some places, but I live in florida and freezing doesnt happen. Water wetter does have some harsh shit in it that supposedly can wipe out seals and prematurely kill cooling system components. Up to now I have had none of these issues, but for now I am sticking with straight tap water and anti rust.....

?????
Red Line WaterWetter® will provide the proper corrosion inhibition for all cooling system metals, including aluminum, cast iron, steel, copper, brass, and lead.
Here is the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet)
http://www.athea.com/MSDS/395wwmsds.pdf
Nothing too nasty there.
Apparently it does form a slime if left too long, but I rinse system 2 or 3 times a year and have never had a problem.
For those that don't change their radiator fluid every year rolleyes
it could be a problem.... but then again so is overheating and sliding in ethylene glycol on track (close cousin, polyethylene glycol-PEG- is used as a laxative.. GoLytely or Miralax for anyone that has ever had a scope done).