I need to finish up the install,I am currently attempting to install the adapter for the freeze plug hole. I am frustrated by the huge wiring harness going above it. I can not get the adapter lined up with the hole nor can I attempt to tap it or put on the hose extension without it pinching. PLEASE can anyone tell me how they dealt with this damn wiring harness. What was your procedure for installation in detail for this adapter? How did you deal with the harness? Please help ASAP,she is sitting out in the rain.
NEED HELP IMMEDIATLY. LFP cooling mod users...
- Thread starter Om3ga47
- Start date
Undo one or more of the harness retainers and move the harness out of the way. If need be, zip tie it back until you are done with your fitting and hose installation.
Do NOT allow yourself to be rushed while installing the fitting. This is not the time to be in a big hurry. Bad things can happen if you get it in there crooked.
Rain is not exactly a big problem for an 03/04 Cobra.:bored::shrug:
Do NOT allow yourself to be rushed while installing the fitting. This is not the time to be in a big hurry. Bad things can happen if you get it in there crooked.
Rain is not exactly a big problem for an 03/04 Cobra.:bored::shrug:
You will probably want to pry the clip out with a long flat blade screw driver.
That's what I did when I needed to get in there and be able to see in at the same time. I was not able to pull it back by hand. Just don't damage any wires.
That's what I did when I needed to get in there and be able to see in at the same time. I was not able to pull it back by hand. Just don't damage any wires.
The furthest I can get the harness is on the fuel rail. Even then I can not fit my hand in between the harness and firewall without forcing my hand down.I can only hold the fitting with 3 fingers and have no grip or leverage what so ever to push the fitting in the bore.
are you trying to install this without removing the blower?
Are you sure? I thught LFP/evenflow did not require Tranny removal??!
I just installed one with the blower off. It would be very difficult to do with the blower still one. The Harness you mention being in the way is held in place by a push clip into the lower intake. The clip is located just below the large PCV connector on the back of the blower. its easier to reach from the passenger side. Good luck.
about 45 minutes.
Found this if it helps.
It was posted by Don the guy whp created it I believe....
This is posted with previous permission from Linn@Amazon.
I've received numerous questions about the possibility of this mod being installed without taking the blower off. I will address that and other questions here.
I will detail some of my observations and thoughts. First most often asked question
1) Is it possible?
A) I believe it is, but I myself have not done it. The reason I originally designed the mod was to cater to people like myself who were planning some type of work where the blower would be off the vehicle (ported, kenne Bell, whipple, Turbo, or even N/A) Since this initial effort required very specific measurements to determine if the idea was possible, all the fitting, prototypes, and hose routing was accomplished while my Eaton was off the car getting ported. Once the fitting for the head was completed all other components were added to clear the various parts of the car as they were re-installed (Blower,fuel rail, heater hoses, t-body, air intake hose, EGR tube, upper radiator hose)
Now once the prototype was on the car and running I started to go over my "installation notes" in order to write up a detailed set of instructions on the install itself, some helpful hints, some recommendations on possible problem areas to look for, and finally purging the air from the cooling system.
One of the most challenging parts of this process was "who do I write these instructions for?" Are they written for an install shop with a vast array of tools and experience at their disposal or for "Joe Weekend" who works on his own stuff but whose toolbox may consist of 2 hammers a screwdriver and some electrical tape. An "easy install" to a repair shop can be seen as difficult to someone in their garage.
I decided that the typical installation would be best accomplished with the blower off. This allows maximum working room, maximum visability, and would save "joe weekend" a ton of frustration. If you've been in the auto trade for an extended period of time like I have, sometimes getting frustrated leads to rushing and rushing makes mistakes. In those cases, you need to slow down, take a step back, re-evaluate and go at it again. For a guy with little automotive experience and limited tools on a weekend-type install, frustration sometimes leads to throwing hammers, mother f***ing everthing, and making small mistakes into a large ones.
With that being said: If you are someone with good experience or a shop that has access to better tools AND you want to try the install without taking off the blower here are my RECOMMENDATIONS:
-Take off the hood for max visibility
-Remove the entire solenoid/bracket assembly from the blower and get it off the car
- Take off the EGR valve from the blower (this allows you to get some movement on the EGR tube which is in the area where you will be working)
- Remove the injector rail assembly
The above RECOMMENDATIONS will get you to a point where you can evaluate whether this area has enough access to continue. As I mentioned I have not personally done it, but with a shop install or someone with experience I do believe it is possible. It's kind of like replacing the suspension springs on a Cobra. If you look at the official Ford procedure, 1/2 the car needs to be taken apart. But as more and more people tackle it, they find some tricks or shortcuts that can accomplish the same result. Hope this helps.
2) Why does the bottom of the stainless fitting have a radius on the bottom instead of square edge?
A) The fitting was designed to "roll" if the install gets started cocked (not straight). If the bottom edge was square and the fitting was being installed cocked, it would tend to bind in the bore. This way the fitting tends to "roll" off center if the install isn't straight, alerting the installer immediately. Once the fitting starts straight it continues until proper depth is achieved.
3) Why does this kit route the coolant to the upper radiator hose instead of the heater core like everybody else?
A) Because I'm not trying to be like everybody else. I was never trying to "copy" everyone else. I figured that if I was going to attempt this I wanted it to be another "option" for Terminator/Mustang owners. As such i did research, talked to engine builders, tuners, engineers, machinists, and monitored some very good "discussions" on these forums. I then put together a "list" of what I felt would make this mod effective and slightly different from what is currently available. That list looked like this
-Cool the driver's head (#1 priority)
-Create separate coolant path instead of merging 2 into 1
-An install that could be completed from the top of the car
-An install that could be completed without dropping the transmission
-A final cost that would be deemed as reasonable
Let me finish off by saying that when I first started this, it was with the intent of making one for my own vehicle and that was it. As I went along, I felt I had a good idea that could benefit many of you guys so I kept going. Since that time I’ve had great discussions with many members and debates with others. It’s unfortunate that I sometimes read posts from other members who attempt to cut down this idea as inferior or “unworthy” compared to what is available. I would never try to silence someone from promoting a product they felt was good, or discussing the merits of one idea compared to another but what I find really annoying is those posts by people who have never seen the product in hand, much less had any experience with it’s install/final results, and then speak to other members as if they have tried both and have an INTELLIGENT opinion instead of the blind “brand loyalty” that often pops up in these threads. What would the Terminator world be like with 1 type of suspension spring, 1 type of cold air kit, 1 type of camshaft, 1 type of blower, and on and on and on. Decide what is right for your application. Bottom line keep it cool.
For the guys who are game for trying the install without the blower removed, I’d be as interested as you to hear your feedback good OR bad. If there is a recommendation on something that could be changed/modified to make that type of install a viable option, I’ll look into and see what can be done…Don
It was posted by Don the guy whp created it I believe....
This is posted with previous permission from Linn@Amazon.
I've received numerous questions about the possibility of this mod being installed without taking the blower off. I will address that and other questions here.
I will detail some of my observations and thoughts. First most often asked question
1) Is it possible?
A) I believe it is, but I myself have not done it. The reason I originally designed the mod was to cater to people like myself who were planning some type of work where the blower would be off the vehicle (ported, kenne Bell, whipple, Turbo, or even N/A) Since this initial effort required very specific measurements to determine if the idea was possible, all the fitting, prototypes, and hose routing was accomplished while my Eaton was off the car getting ported. Once the fitting for the head was completed all other components were added to clear the various parts of the car as they were re-installed (Blower,fuel rail, heater hoses, t-body, air intake hose, EGR tube, upper radiator hose)
Now once the prototype was on the car and running I started to go over my "installation notes" in order to write up a detailed set of instructions on the install itself, some helpful hints, some recommendations on possible problem areas to look for, and finally purging the air from the cooling system.
One of the most challenging parts of this process was "who do I write these instructions for?" Are they written for an install shop with a vast array of tools and experience at their disposal or for "Joe Weekend" who works on his own stuff but whose toolbox may consist of 2 hammers a screwdriver and some electrical tape. An "easy install" to a repair shop can be seen as difficult to someone in their garage.
I decided that the typical installation would be best accomplished with the blower off. This allows maximum working room, maximum visability, and would save "joe weekend" a ton of frustration. If you've been in the auto trade for an extended period of time like I have, sometimes getting frustrated leads to rushing and rushing makes mistakes. In those cases, you need to slow down, take a step back, re-evaluate and go at it again. For a guy with little automotive experience and limited tools on a weekend-type install, frustration sometimes leads to throwing hammers, mother f***ing everthing, and making small mistakes into a large ones.
With that being said: If you are someone with good experience or a shop that has access to better tools AND you want to try the install without taking off the blower here are my RECOMMENDATIONS:
-Take off the hood for max visibility
-Remove the entire solenoid/bracket assembly from the blower and get it off the car
- Take off the EGR valve from the blower (this allows you to get some movement on the EGR tube which is in the area where you will be working)
- Remove the injector rail assembly
The above RECOMMENDATIONS will get you to a point where you can evaluate whether this area has enough access to continue. As I mentioned I have not personally done it, but with a shop install or someone with experience I do believe it is possible. It's kind of like replacing the suspension springs on a Cobra. If you look at the official Ford procedure, 1/2 the car needs to be taken apart. But as more and more people tackle it, they find some tricks or shortcuts that can accomplish the same result. Hope this helps.
2) Why does the bottom of the stainless fitting have a radius on the bottom instead of square edge?
A) The fitting was designed to "roll" if the install gets started cocked (not straight). If the bottom edge was square and the fitting was being installed cocked, it would tend to bind in the bore. This way the fitting tends to "roll" off center if the install isn't straight, alerting the installer immediately. Once the fitting starts straight it continues until proper depth is achieved.
3) Why does this kit route the coolant to the upper radiator hose instead of the heater core like everybody else?
A) Because I'm not trying to be like everybody else. I was never trying to "copy" everyone else. I figured that if I was going to attempt this I wanted it to be another "option" for Terminator/Mustang owners. As such i did research, talked to engine builders, tuners, engineers, machinists, and monitored some very good "discussions" on these forums. I then put together a "list" of what I felt would make this mod effective and slightly different from what is currently available. That list looked like this
-Cool the driver's head (#1 priority)
-Create separate coolant path instead of merging 2 into 1
-An install that could be completed from the top of the car
-An install that could be completed without dropping the transmission
-A final cost that would be deemed as reasonable
Let me finish off by saying that when I first started this, it was with the intent of making one for my own vehicle and that was it. As I went along, I felt I had a good idea that could benefit many of you guys so I kept going. Since that time I’ve had great discussions with many members and debates with others. It’s unfortunate that I sometimes read posts from other members who attempt to cut down this idea as inferior or “unworthy” compared to what is available. I would never try to silence someone from promoting a product they felt was good, or discussing the merits of one idea compared to another but what I find really annoying is those posts by people who have never seen the product in hand, much less had any experience with it’s install/final results, and then speak to other members as if they have tried both and have an INTELLIGENT opinion instead of the blind “brand loyalty” that often pops up in these threads. What would the Terminator world be like with 1 type of suspension spring, 1 type of cold air kit, 1 type of camshaft, 1 type of blower, and on and on and on. Decide what is right for your application. Bottom line keep it cool.
For the guys who are game for trying the install without the blower removed, I’d be as interested as you to hear your feedback good OR bad. If there is a recommendation on something that could be changed/modified to make that type of install a viable option, I’ll look into and see what can be done…Don
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