13in or 14in brake kit

I want to upgrade my brake but want to know what wverybody recommend. If I get the 00cobraR brake i can have cheaper tires and rims because i just need a 17in rim. But with the 14in gt500 kit i will need 18in wheels and the tire will cost more. Is it a big diferencein the two, is it worth it.

I can't say if the 14" brakes will be worth it for you, it depends on if you'll be running R compound rubber. I think 13" will stop street tires just fine. 14" rotors should dissipate heat a bit better if that's a concern.
Also, factor how often you'll be going through tires. 18" tires will always cost more.

Does the 14in kit will be able to stop the car fasterthan the 13in will.

Not likely. With a street car your limiting factor when your brakes are that big is usually your tires. Either system will lock them up. The bigger rotors may just shed heat a bit faster. But there may be other subtleties between the two systems. I don't know much about the GT500 kit. But I know it's a big porker they made them for.

What kind of car would you be putting these on?

2004 mach 1

Are the brembo calipers from a Evo or STI the same as the Brembos for mustang cars.

Just curious as to why you want to upgrade your brakes? Do you need better brakes because you have maxed out the capabilities of your stockers or are you looking more for that impressive look behind the wheels?

2004mmmach1 said:

I want to upgrade my brake but want to know what wverybody recommend. If I get the 00cobraR brake i can have cheaper tires and rims because i just need a 17in rim. But with the 14in gt500 kit i will need 18in wheels and the tire will cost more. Is it a big diferencein the two, is it worth it.

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I think before we can give you educated advice on what kind of brakes you should have, we need to know WHY you want to upgrade your brakes and what you do with your car.:shrug:

:thumbsup::coolman::beer:

I really want to have a all around good car. I have my suspension built with MM Grip Box and my rear end built with 31 spine T2r. I have stainless steel brake lines also. But its going to be time for brakes and tires soon. I will need to buy both the rotor and pads so i was looking to upgrade. My car is a daily driver and i'm have gone to 1 track even and had a BLAST. I'm going to try and go to as many events as i can. I want to have a car thats impressive in every aspect of performance. But I can only do so much. I not rich and i take one step at a time.

2004mmmach1 said:

I really want to have a all around good car. I have my suspension built with MM Grip Box and my rear end built with 31 spine T2r. I have stainless steel brake lines also. But its going to be time for brakes and tires soon. I will need to buy both the rotor and pads so i was looking to upgrade. My car is a daily driver and i'm have gone to 1 track even and had a BLAST. I'm going to try and go to as many events as i can. I want to have a car thats impressive in every aspect of performance. But I can only do so much. I not rich and i take one step at a time.

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OK, Juan. I'm actually turning off my TV while responding to this one. I want to be as clear as I can.

Right now in your life is the point where you will be chosing one of two paths. And I say this because you say you're not rich, and I can relate to that.

You want to have, as you say, "a car thats impressive in every aspect of performance". That is following the path of building up a show car, and the costs that go along with it. And that's fine, millions do it.

But on the other hand, you say you've "gone to 1 track even and had a BLAST. I'm going to try and go to as many events as i can". This is where you need to follow the path of realizing that the car you own right now is about 95% better than you are, and you need to spend time on the track building up the skills to NEED better brakes than the PBR's your car came with.

Sure, if you have the $$$, you can build the ultimate track car (I've seen that happen somewhere ), but you'll never learn how to correct a slide if your car doesn't slide.

My advise is spend the money on good tires (if you need them), and put the rest of it towards entry fees for Open Track events. Then replace your components as your skills have advanced beyond what those components can do.

2004mmmach1 said:

I really want to have a all around good car. I have my suspension built with MM Grip Box and my rear end built with 31 spine T2r. I have stainless steel brake lines also. But its going to be time for brakes and tires soon. I will need to buy both the rotor and pads so i was looking to upgrade. My car is a daily driver and i'm have gone to 1 track even and had a BLAST. I'm going to try and go to as many events as i can. I want to have a car thats impressive in every aspect of performance. But I can only do so much. I not rich and i take one step at a time.

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+1 on the seat time. Best mod you can get :thumbsup: I have been running the Brembo R kit with Hawk DT-70's (front) Hawk blues (rear) and have been very happy with them.
Someday I would like to upgrade to the 14" kit but, like you said, I would have to run all 18" wheels :dw:

VENM said:

+1 on the seat time. Best mod you can get :thumbsup: I have been running the Brembo R kit with Hawk DT-70's (front) Hawk blues (rear) and have been very happy with them.
Someday I would like to upgrade to the 14" kit but, like you said, I would have to run all 18" wheels :dw:

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Clay,
I've been using HT-10's up front and Blues in the rear with great results. How do you like the DT-70's? I need to get new pads and was looking for some feedback on the DT-70's before I made a purchase.

Thanks
Steve

VENM said:

+1 on the seat time. Best mod you can get :thumbsup: I have been running the Brembo R kit with Hawk DT-70's (front) Hawk blues (rear) and have been very happy with them.
Someday I would like to upgrade to the 14" kit but, like you said, I would have to run all 18" wheels :dw:

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Clay, have you tried the DTC-60 also? I'm switching up to them after over a year of running Hawk Blue in my Brembos. Talking with Andrew Racing, he suggested the 60 for their initial bite, quick release, and lack of rotor wear compaired to the 70. But he said they were what I should start with after using Blues for so long. Just wondering if you've tried both, and can report back on the difference.

2004mmmach1 said:

I really want to have a all around good car. I have my suspension built with MM Grip Box and my rear end built with 31 spine T2r. I have stainless steel brake lines also. But its going to be time for brakes and tires soon. I will need to buy both the rotor and pads so i was looking to upgrade. My car is a daily driver and i'm have gone to 1 track even and had a BLAST. I'm going to try and go to as many events as i can. I want to have a car thats impressive in every aspect of performance. But I can only do so much. I not rich and i take one step at a time.

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Well, you've certainly made some impressive mods to your car!

When my nephew got his 2000 V-6 5 speed Mustang his front brakes were toast. He needed pads and rotors. I couldn't see spending $150.00 (or whatever it was going to be) to repair those crappy brakes so I bought him a combined graduation/birthday present and put some Cobra PBR's from BuyFordRacing.com for about $349.00 which are awesome brakes for his car. So I can see your point about spending money on stock brake components.

The PBR calipers are not exactly what I would call the "Hot Set-Up". So I would recommend going with the Brembo Y2KR four pot calipers as they are an awesome upgrade for Mustangs and should be fine for 95% of the people driving on them even at the track. Stick with the one piece Brembo rotors, they will serve you well.

Good luck, have fun and be safe if you're going to the track!

:thumbsup::coolman::beer:

Sorry, Bruce. For once I can't agree with you.
For a first timer on the track PBR's (with good pads) are fine. Many cars are turning in very good track times for novices on them.
$700~$800 for Brembos could be 2 or 3 track weekends, which would help a new driver better, IMO.

steve121 said:

Clay,
I've been using HT-10's up front and Blues in the rear with great results. How do you like the DT-70's? I need to get new pads and was looking for some feedback on the DT-70's before I made a purchase.

Thanks
Steve

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Steve:
Most of my track events are at Road America with three major straights over 140mph and are very hard on pads/rotors. I chose the DTC-70 to give my car somewhat the performance/feel of a big brake kit. I am very very happy with the DTC-70's, last year I ran 4 weekends on the same set of rotors:thumbsup: I did have a set of Hawk Blues left, and used them for an event in October at RA and toasted a new set of slotted Brembos :mj:

I think you will like them and... very low brakedust :thumbsup:

gcassidy said:

Sorry, Bruce. For once I can't agree with you.
For a first timer on the track PBR's (with good pads) are fine. Many cars are turning in very good track times for novices on them.
$700~$800 for Brembos could be 2 or 3 track weekends, which would help a new driver better, IMO.

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I'm afraid I must also concur.

One of my instructors is still running the PBRs with Hawk Blacks, the car is amazingly stock and insanely fast with him driving it.(Marty w/ Sonic 03 Terminator)

There are a couple things that need to come out here.

DOWN SIDE TO BREMBOS: The Brembos are a fixed caliper design that work best, (with very fast drivers) on a floating rotor/hat combo. They can stress the OE rotor/hat transition and cause cracking and rotor separation eventually. The one piece or two piece non floating rotors need to be closely monitored for cracks as drivers get faster, brake later and harder, and move up through the run groups.(ask Joe Johnson:uh oh:)

The PBR works just fine with the one piece cast rotor and will not stress it at the hat transition.

DOWN SIDE TO PBRs: They flex more and cause pad taper(leading edge wear) usually seen with a very fast driver braking late and hard. They are less able to reject heat and more sensitive to fluid boil since they have less of it.

I feel all Open Trackers should install brake cooling ducts, no matter what level they are at. It should be the very first mod.

gcassidy said:

Clay, have you tried the DTC-60 also? I'm switching up to them after over a year of running Hawk Blue in my Brembos. Talking with Andrew Racing, he suggested the 60 for their initial bite, quick release, and lack of rotor wear compaired to the 70. But he said they were what I should start with after using Blues for so long. Just wondering if you've tried both, and can report back on the difference.

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Greg:
I have not tried the 60's yet, I am sure it depends on the track, and they may work better on a shorter track :read: I am going to try the 70's (front) 60's (rear) this year.


I need all the bite I can get to slow my heavyweight down :whine:

Greg and Jimmy:

I respect your opinions. But I feel the Cobra OEM braking system (PBR) is fine for the street but marginal for track use. Can they be driven on track with upgraded pads? Absolutely. Can people drive fast with them? Yes.

I consider brakes a safety item. I sure as hell wouldn't want to drive a Terminator anywhere NEAR the limit at Road America with those shitty PBR calipers on it. This of course is my opinion. And that's at Road America. I don't think you'll find a track in the United States that's harder on brakes than Road America is!!! Now some other tracks would be a different story.

Going back to the OP's question was should he invest in the braking system he has or upgrade? I say upgrade. When he puts his foot on the brake with a Brembo four pot he's going to be going like this: Saying "Holy crap, now these are brakes!"

We would have the same differing opinions if the OP asked what beer is better, Miller or Bud!? :beer:

FWIW

:thumbsup::coolman::beer:

I have already installed 3in cooling brake ducts in my car.