Budget Street/Track Set up for '96 Cobra?

I let my Bullitt go and picked up a real clean '96 Cobra, I want to start getting it ready to split street/track.

I'm not looking to go American Iron racing but want it to be safe and fun.

I could use some guidance before I start ordering parts.

The car has 03/04 Mach 1 Tokico struts and shocks, FRPP "B" springs and a 4.10 in it (all of which are almost new) and a leaking pinion seal. I am planning on a complete rear rebuild along with 3.55 or 3.73's.

1st question; What do you guys think about the strut, shock and spring set up with the stock sway bars? I don't want to replace the struts and shocks but would do springs and bars that would work with them or just the bars.

2nd question; Will a complete 03/04 Mach 1 rear fit in the 96?

3rd question; While the rear is out I thought about replacing the upper and lower control arms, any advice on a good package? I was thinking MM,BBK or Hotchkis.

I also want to do a clutch, driveshaft, a decent set of seats, harness bar, harnesses, front CA's, CC plates, wheels and tires. So that doesn't leave much left in the suspension budget.

Any Advice would be greatly appreciated.

I guess I could have split this up into a couple different threads.

If you have never tried OT before try it like it is first. You already have a better set up than stock to try out, and if you're new your car is probably more capable than you are right now.

As far as your sway bars, most Mustang drivers leave the sway bars alone. If anything maybe use a larger rear bar. The front bars are pretty beefy from the factory. No matter what you don't have to change the struts/shocks when changing sway bars. I would simply leave it alone for now.

The Mach 1 rear will fit in the '96 Cobra. It is wider though, and you would have to switch to wheels with a different backspacing. Not sure why you would want to switch. The factory rear is just fine.

I would definitely switch to a 3.73 gear. Those 4.10 are for drag racing. Make sure you fix that pinion leak. I don't want to get on track after you have dripping fluid everywhere.

Might as well change the control arms while your messing with the rear. Only do the lower arms. Any brand will do IMO. If want to do the uppers, use the Steedas. They basically box the factory arm. The reason for doing just the lower is to avoid suspension bind in the upper arms. This can happen with stiffer/smaller bushings in the upper control arms.

My advise...
Fix the leak (maybe swap the 4.10s for 3.90s), get some good track pads and PUT ON STAINLESS STEEL BRAKE LINES!
Then go have fun and spend the money on track time.

wheelhopper said:

Might as well change the control arms while your messing with the rear. Only do the lower arms. Any brand will do IMO. If want to do the uppers, use the Steedas. They basically box the factory arm. The reason for doing just the lower is to avoid suspension bind in the upper arms. This can happen with stiffer/smaller bushings in the upper control arms.

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not to hijack the thread but which Steedas would you recommend? heavy duty, aluminums or the adjustables?

These for the OT crowd.

http://www.steeda.com/products/steeda_heavy_duty_upper_rear_control_arms.php

Eventually these will be eliminated all together by the drivers who stick around by installing a panhard bar and torque arm.

The 4.10s will probably be pretty good on the track. I would consider leaving them, or going to 3.90s. The 4.10s will give you great response. Get that pinion seal fixed before you do anything.

To start, replace all fluids, put in new plugs, wires, PCV valve, fuel filter, air filter etc and go have fun. Fix any leaks or problems. Get new pads and rotors if the cars needs them as well.

For performance you will want to look to these items first - some good lowering springs, CC plates, SS brake lines and possibly brake cooling ducts.

Nice to haves would be a stiffer rear sway bar and stiffer shocks/struts. I would not put a stiffer sway bar up front yet.

Ashley, all good advise. But I would have to consider the SS brake lines as a safety upgrade instead of a performance upgrade, especially on the pre-99 Cobras. They came with rubber hoses that were notorious for popping off at just the wrong time.

wheelhopper said:

If you have never tried OT before try it like it is first. You already have a better set up than stock to try out, and if you're new your car is probably more capable than you are right now.

As far as your sway bars, most Mustang drivers leave the sway bars alone. If anything maybe use a larger rear bar. The front bars are pretty beefy from the factory. No matter what you don't have to change the struts/shocks when changing sway bars. I would simply leave it alone for now.

The Mach 1 rear will fit in the '96 Cobra. It is wider though, and you would have to switch to wheels with a different backspacing. Not sure why you would want to switch. The factory rear is just fine.

Might as well change the control arms while your messing with the rear. Only do the lower arms. Any brand will do IMO. If want to do the uppers, use the Steedas. They basically box the factory arm. The reason for doing just the lower is to avoid suspension bind in the upper arms. This can happen with stiffer/smaller bushings in the upper control arms.

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Thanks Wheel hopper.

I've run the Bullitt at Watkins Glen the last 4 years with Phoenix CMR.
I didn't want to start building a track car out of it, even though it handled and stopped very well for a stock car. My son ran it one session last year and now he has the bug too! We sold the bullitt for a good price before we beat it up too much and got the 96 Cobra thinking it would make a good platform to start building something fun on the track and still be streetable,(for now anyway).

The only things we did to the Bullitt was SS brake lines and Hawk Blues up front and also Falken RT-615's.

I would like to start with a set up that is at least the same if not better on the Cobra.

My thinking with putting in a Mach 1 rear (used, with less miles) is, the 3.55 would be o.k. for now and I could sell the complete 4.10 out of my car.

gcassidy said:

My advise...
Fix the leak (maybe swap the 4.10s for 3.90s), get some good track pads and PUT ON STAINLESS STEEL BRAKE LINES!
Then go have fun and spend the money on track time.

Click to expand...

Thanks Cassidy.

Your car looks familiar, did I see you at Summit Point in May '05?

The rear gears were put in with a new seal at the Ford dealership where the guy that I bought the car from works only about 3,000 miles ago. I think the pinion flange has a groove worn in it.

I ran the numbers on a gear calculator.
http://www.corral.net/tech/gearcalc.html

I think the 4.10 will be a little steep, I'd rather not have to use 5th gear, and down shifting to 3rd at 60+ would be a little too hairy,(for me anyway), even with good rpm matching. That being said, to replace the pinion flange I would have to pull the differential to get the pinion bearing preload right with a new crush collar.

At that point I might as well do a gear swap.

I'm running Stop-Tech SS lines and Hawk Blues, Love how they bite and have not faded once.

My first event I melted both front and rear stock pads, I think i'm using the brakes more efficiently now,(harder for less time)

Thanks .

LargeOrangeFont said:

For performance you will want to look to these items first - some good lowering springs, CC plates, SS brake lines and possibly brake cooling ducts.

Nice to haves would be a stiffer rear sway bar and stiffer shocks/struts. I would not put a stiffer sway bar up front yet.

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The "B" springs on it now are softer than what I had on the Bullit, (not much though) but I can't go too much stiffer with springs without swapping struts and shocks. The Tokico's on it will only handle 650 fr and 250 rr, according to Tokico (did you know they were a division of Hitachi? Weird).

I guess for me it's either stick with what I have or go all out with coil overs, tourque arm and panhard bar.

I don't think I have the patience to leave it the way it is though.

Is anyone running the steeda 5 link?

Thanks.

Rich, yes, that was me at SP in May of almost every year. LOL

I'm happy with my 3.90s, but there are a couple places on SP main that I wish I had 4.10s (T3 & T10). But I agree with your concerns about them.

I have used the Hawk blues and HT10s for years and love them. I'm just now trying the DTC70s. I only have one weekend on them, and it was cool, but they worked fine, better than the HTs could have in those temps. I think I see brake cooling ducts in your future.

If you have to work on a budget, you can go with the PHB and TA without having to pony up for COs. And I have heard most folks say that for a track car, the 5 link is heavy and expensive. But maybe someone with one will chime in.

And just a thought, the '96 & '97 Cobras had a cooling issue. Has yours had the mods done to it?

Rich, did not realize you were a seasoned vet on track. You have more years into it than I have. I have always been into making my Mustangs handle though. While I did use to drag race I was more interested in having an all around performer than a drag car.

Given the revelation that you are experienced, here is what I would do to that car before next season. (Things like fluid changes and general maintenance are a given for safety)

Get some Bilstein or Koni shocks
If your not doing a Coilover kit, get some H&R race springs.
CC plates
Get a panhard bar.
Switch to 3.73 or 3.90 gears. I use 3.55s, but I make 500rwhp.
Sounds like you have plenty of brake experience. There are some good deals right now though in the Market section and Corner Carvers on brake kits.

I would simply get a roll bar, if you are considering a harness bar.

If there is any $ left, I would get a supercharger. The drag racer in me can't help it.

gcassidy said:

And just a thought, the '96 & '97 Cobras had a cooling issue. Has yours had the mods done to it?

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It has a Fluidyne rad. and a '99 water pump, and I will be putting in a 180 deg. t-stat.

The car came with an SCTx3 tuner, I think I can adjust my fan on-off temps but not sure how.

You are right, the brake ducts will be coming soon.

Thanks.

gcassidy said:

Ashley, all good advise. But I would have to consider the SS brake lines as a safety upgrade instead of a performance upgrade, especially on the pre-99 Cobras. They came with rubber hoses that were notorious for popping off at just the wrong time.

Click to expand...

I agree with that.

wheelhopper said:

If there is any $ left, I would get a supercharger. The drag racer in me can't help it.

Click to expand...

Thanks Doug,

After I get this thing balanced as well as I can afford, maybe I'll spring for the s/c, (or maybe a turbo?)

GForceJunkie said:

The "B" springs on it now are softer than what I had on the Bullit, (not much though) but I can't go too much stiffer with springs without swapping struts and shocks. The Tokico's on it will only handle 650 fr and 250 rr, according to Tokico (did you know they were a division of Hitachi? Weird).

I guess for me it's either stick with what I have or go all out with coil overs, tourque arm and panhard bar.

I don't think I have the patience to leave it the way it is though.

Is anyone running the steeda 5 link?

Thanks.

Click to expand...

Sounds like you already have your mind made up :beer:

LargeOrangeFont said:

Sounds like you already have your mind made up :beer:

Click to expand...

It all comes down to how much cash I can raise this winter.

I'll probably do as much as I can afford.

GForceJunkie said:

It all comes down to how much cash I can raise this winter.

I'll probably do as much as I can afford.

Click to expand...

Yea. Some dilligent scouring on here and other sites will net you some good prices on parts.

Unless they are making noise or the street fuel economy is killing you, I seriously would leave the 4.10s in that housing and keep it. Your money would be better spent ( IMHO ) on a gear type limited slip, like a Detroit true Trac, or a Torsen T2R.
Even with our long straights at TWS most of the NA guys I run with love the 4.10s, including a few Y2K Cobra R guys.
The clutches on a stock diff wear fairly rapidly doing this activity, the True Trac will pay for itself in a about 3 years depending on how many events you do a year.

For sure brake cooling ducts! They are a must have and will also extend pad life.

I would just get caster camber plates for now and see how the car does. then go from there.

It would be better to wait on some of the suspension mods until you see what the car needs.

I also don't like taking off BASICALLY NEW PARTS because I've now decided to go a more aggressive route.

Full coil overs all the way around with a torque arm and a good set of sway bars are the way to go, I would leave it alone until you can swing the ching to go that route.

There are some support mods that will be needed when you do.
Extended front ball joints, bump steer kit, solid rack bushings, solid steering shaft, possibly a K brace.

You will likely want to run 275/40R17s on a light weight rim.

Get the car on the track and get some feed back from it, then as you move up in run groups, then go hard core.

Jimmy,

Thanks for all the great advice.

Rich.