Buying an Aviator engine?

[Triple Black]

Thinking about and have almost made up my mind to buy a used low mileage lincoln Aviator engine to build. I have a 98 Cobra that is in excellent condition other than I want forged internals and a supercharger.
If I go this route, I get the 9 thread c heads and an Eaton s/c just bolts right up. Probably get a set of Comp cams as well. I like the idea of being able to take my time with the engine build and still drive my car. Hss anyone done the same or similar? If so, what to be aware of. Thanks.

 

[NVRL8TE]

This is excatly what I'd like to do as well.

I'm anxious to hear these responses.

 

[00_silvergt]

You will need an 03/04 cobra timing cover and other eaton swap parts to run the eaton

 

[Triple Black]

You will need an 03/04 cobra timing cover and other eaton swap parts to run the eaton

I agree and It may be more of a pain than what its worth. Might be better to just throw on a Vortech instead. ONe thing at a time though. Not trying to be over-simplistic, but it would go something like this:

1. aquire engine (got my eye on one now)
2. Forged internals
3. Head work (Cams,porting, springs, followers etc.)
4. Intake that will work with c heads (Maybe one from MMR or a Mach1)
5. pull my engine and use what I can on the new one.
6. Install in my car and run N/A for a while?

Plan on bumping up the compression a bit on this build. Maybe 11 or 12 to 1.

Return fuel system is going to be a problem with the c-heads isnt it?

 

[00_silvergt]

Don't use mmr intake unless you are going to be revving really high. You can relocate the mounting tabs on the 96-98 fuel rail to fit on a 03/04 mach 1 intake or a 99/01 intake also. I am also working on the same project but don't know when ill be done. In my thread there is a picture of the intake and fuel rail. Cut where the circles are right below the welds and weld them to the new spot. Maybe we can help eachother as we go. http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/sn95-cobras-24/896671-slow-winter-project.html

 

[na svt]

I agree and It may be more of a pain than what its worth. Might be better to just throw on a Vortech instead. ONe thing at a time though. Not trying to be over-simplistic, but it would go something like this:

1. aquire engine (got my eye on one now)
2. Forged internals
3. Head work (Cams,porting, springs, followers etc.)
4. Intake that will work with c heads (Maybe one from MMR or a Mach1)

Plan on bumping up the compression a bit on this build. Maybe 11 or 12 to 1.

Return fuel system is going to be a problem with the c-heads isnt it?

12:1 with a supercharger...seriously?

The heads don't dictate which fuel system is used.

Skip the porting as it will add no power.

The MMR intake looks great but will make less power in the useable RPM range.

 

[ColorMatched]

Buddy of mine has an Aviator motor in his 99 Cobra. The front timing cover needs changed over for the belt routing and alternator etc, other than that it's pretty direct.

 

[65fastback2+2]

12:1 with a supercharger...seriously?

someone is wanting to get stuff done :rockon:

 

[NVRL8TE]

Do Aviators have aluminum blocks?

 

[na svt]

Do Aviators have aluminum blocks?

yes as do Marauders and Mach 1s. They all also have the same cams and heads.

 

[NVRL8TE]

yes as do Marauders and Mach 1s. They all also have the same cams and heads.

Thanks, bro.

How much would a low mile one run me?

 

[IronSnake]

I was about to do the same thing. But I don't see the point. You'd be better off buying a block, heads, internals all seperately. I had the same aspirations but realized if I was going to rebuild it there is no point in rebuilding a perfectly good motor. I bought an 01 motor in pieces, and rebuilt it that way.

 

[na svt]

check Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market

The marauder, aviator and automatic trans Mach 1 engiens will require a 6 bolt flywheel. The avaitor needs a mach or C head cobra intake and your current front cover.

 

[Triple Black]

12:1 with a supercharger...seriously?

The heads don't dictate which fuel system is used.

Skip the porting as it will add no power.

The MMR intake looks great but will make less power in the useable RPM range.

Agreed, only indirectly due to the intake required to utilize c heads. Thanks for clearing that up.

The compression #'s arent written in stone. I know 8.5:1 seems to be optimal for supercharging, but the 10:1 Cobras are routinely being supercharged. What is the compression cut-off for supercharging?

 

[na svt]

Agreed, only indirectly due to the intake required to utilize c heads. Thanks for clearing that up.

The compression #'s arent written in stone. I know 8.5:1 seems to be optimal for supercharging, but the 10:1 Cobras are routinely being supercharged. What is the compression cut-off for supercharging?

The intake manifold also do not dictaet the type of fuel system that must be used. I had a C head intake combos with return systems and put together a B head car with a returnless.

8.5:1 is way too low for a supercharger, if the boost is kept to a modest level you can safely make around 50rwhp more with 10:1.

 

[IUP99snake]

An aviator longblock has a few advantages. First, it's pretty cheap because it goes under the radar at junkyards.

It has the same heads and cams as the 03/04 cobras. It doesn't have forged internals, but it does have 10.3:1 compression.

I swapped in an aviator longblock in my 99 cobra and it was a direct swap except for the 6 bolt crank and exhaust manifolds. I bought a fidanza aluminum 6 bolt 11" flywheel so I could use a cobra size clutch with the GT-style crank. And I bought a set of used 03 cobra exhaust manifolds for $20 bucks. Although my stock exhaust manifolds would have bolted up to the new heads, the exhaust port is slightly different.

For 96-98 cobras, it would be just like swapping over to "tumble port" heads.

I'm pretty sure you can use your original timing cover. You can even use your original valve covers. You'd just need to get a 99+ style intake. Don't use the Aviator intake. It was once regarded as the "Poor Man's FR500 intake", but dyno tests have proven otherwise.

If you plan on swapping in a complete, running longblock, I can see the advantages.

But if you plan on rebuilding it anyway, it might make more sense just to rebuild what you already have.

As-is, it runs great. It has much more bottom end power than my previous combination, and runs much smoother than any built modular motor I've ever driven.

 

[Triple Black]

An aviator longblock has a few advantages. First, it's pretty cheap because it goes under the radar at junkyards.

It has the same heads and cams as the 03/04 cobras. It doesn't have forged internals, but it does have 10.3:1 compression.

I swapped in an aviator longblock in my 99 cobra and it was a direct swap except for the 6 bolt crank and exhaust manifolds. I bought a fidanza aluminum 6 bolt 11" flywheel so I could use a cobra size clutch with the GT-style crank. And I bought a set of used 03 cobra exhaust manifolds for $20 bucks. Although my stock exhaust manifolds would have bolted up to the new heads, the exhaust port is slightly different.

For 96-98 cobras, it would be just like swapping over to "tumble port" heads.

I'm pretty sure you can use your original timing cover. You can even use your original valve covers. You'd just need to get a 99+ style intake. Don't use the Aviator intake. It was once regarded as the "Poor Man's FR500 intake", but dyno tests have proven otherwise.

If you plan on swapping in a complete, running longblock, I can see the advantages.

But if you plan on rebuilding it anyway, it might make more sense just to rebuild what you already have.

As-is, it runs great. It has much more bottom end power than my previous combination, and runs much smoother than any built modular motor I've ever driven.

I want to drive my car while I take my time building the engine as an unhurried project.
You'd be surprised what you can pick up a used Aviator engine for. Not much more than you would pay just for a good set of C heads. Thats what has got me wanting to go this route.
Its going to be a learning experience for me. Im glad I have a couple of friends who race Mustangs that are willing to lend their expertise. I want to build something that I dont have to haul around on a trailer like they do though.

 

[slow2v]

the jan 05 aviator heads are better then the 03/04 cobras

but if your going all out mine as well slap them on top of a teksid like so
http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...2-8-kb-mammoth-t-56-big-exhaust-dd-build.html

 

[NVRL8TE]

^^^ That is also my plan.

And you're right about everything you said.

 

[mustangsvt281]

I was about to do the same thing. But I don't see the point. You'd be better off buying a block, heads, internals all seperately. I had the same aspirations but realized if I was going to rebuild it there is no point in rebuilding a perfectly good motor. I bought an 01 motor in pieces, and rebuilt it that way.

+1 i am piecing together my build as well. Dont buy a motor then try to piece it together. I got a teksid block=$250, 01 heads = $150(without cams 4thread 9 thread it doesnt matter really), eaton= $250, lower intake $400, intercooler = $200, crank = $300. and i have other parts like crank pulley/pulley bridge, alt brackets, alternator from an 03/04, intercooler lines, etc. Its not a cheap build, i plan on running a beefy fuel system so that i can run a whipple later on. I am also going with comp cams. NA svt recommended a set to me but i cant remember exactly which ones. I am also going to get new valves/valve seats/springs/retainers, this will be expensive but when all said and done i will have close to 10k in the car including a t56, front suspension redone etc etc. Its up to you though, a vortech or procharger would be cheaper but you will be running on a stock bottom end and what not. A well built vortech setup will run close to the same as an eaton swap.