H&R Race spring install was a breeze...Now w/pics.
After reading all these horror stories, I was very hesitant to get my springs installed. After a few mention how easy it was, and a few mentioned it was a big PITA, I said what the hell and tackled it.
There is hope out there guys, if you can change your brakes, you can change your springs.
It was more of a PITA to install my H/E, that it was to put these springs on. No need for a spring compressor, special tools, a friend or anything. I complete this job on my garage floor, by myself, with normal tools.
I left the rear ISO's on for that slight rake look, but I still have to go hang my exhaust and put it on the ground and Ill take some pics. I was going to take pics of the process, but dont have a shitty camera.
My quick method for those that search and find this thread.
1. Get the car on 4 jack stands (if you only have 2, then do the front and then the rear.) Get all the tires off
FRONT
2. starting in the front, get the calipers off. That little pin in the back with the c clip will do the trick. I tucked them up behind the struts and set them on that ledge up there. Then take the abs line and under it from the double hook, so it has slack.
3. Take the sway bar off, remove it from the top of the rod.
4. Jack up the side your working on with your jack under the spring perch
5. using an allen key and an open box wrench, take the struts off from the top under the hood. Take the bolt, metal plate, and bushing and set it all to the side so it doesnt get lost.
6. Lower the jack
7. Pry a little bit to get the springs out, but it will pop right out. Its not under extreme pressure any more so you dont have to worry about it flying out.
8. Now it was slightly tricky to pry the new springs in, but I just used a pry bar on the boot of the spring and used the hole in the middle of the perch to pry it in. Didn’t take a lot of effort but its not going to jump in itself. Defiantly not a big deal though.
9. Once you get the springs in, jack the lower a arm back up into place watching the top of the strut and making sure it goes back in the hole up top.
Reverse the removal process to get it back together.
Back
The car should already be up on 4 stands, or now have the rear in the air at least.
Youll defiantly need 2 jacks.
1. Support the diff with your jack.
2. Remove the struts from the lower arms. I used another jack and jacked up the arm, just enough to take the pressure of the strut bolt, near the connecting ball joint.
3. Remove the IRS bolt in the tire well near the strut. Release the jack holding the lower arm
4. Complete same on opposite side.
5. Lower the jack supporting the diff
The springs will fall out, may need to help it some but they defiantly come out with ease. Dont remove the jack completely from the diff, just lower it enough to get the springs out.
Put your new springs in, reverse the steps, and make sure to use the 2nd jack to get the strut bolt in there.
Before
After
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Last edited by boosted2000si; 07-13-2006 at 10:54 PM.
so did you leave in the front isolators, sorry its a little fuzzy in your discription.
____________________________________ 2003 REDFIRE COBRA #3938 of 5082 @ 05/27/2003 1 of 414 Modification List, High Res Pictures, Dyno Sheet 440rwhp/483rwtq 10.9 A/F 12-15psi (new leaner numbers to come!)
I am doing the same thing by myself, right now... and it sucks.
The H&R springs (Sport) are the same height as the stock springs and I couldn't get them to compress enough to get them in there, especially with the ISO's. I put my stockers back on.
I took off the tie rod, the upper control arm, and the sway bar connnection hoping that something could free me up a few inches to get the new ones on. This didn't work, as the lower control arm kept hitting on the tubular rear end stuff....
Any pointers? I haven't broke anything yet, and was able to remove and install the old springs. Thanks
Are you talking about removing the bolt to the left of the shock here? (RIght next to where the blue starts). Here are a couple other pics as I want to figure this out and get it done. Thanks for any hints/inputs.
Did you get teh front done? I took the shock out of the top where it bolts under the hood, and pulled it down with the shock to where it was out of the fender. With it all the way down it was still a tight squeeze but it was able to be done. I just stock the spring up in there with the top in, and stuck my pry bar in against the bottom of the spring and in the hole in the bottom of the spring perch and it poped right in .
HOLY CHIT!!! I did this for the rear, because that is where I have started, and I was done in about 1/2 hour!!! It took me a little longer because I had to loosen my exhaust, but that's it. I'm going to do the front tomorrow.
Thanks for the write up. If anyone needs pics, let me know ASAP. I have my car in a billion parts now.
Great write up. I've never messed much with suspension, but now I don't think I'll be too nervous when I get my springs. Thank you. When I do mine, I'll try to take a bunch of pictures and post them here. Maybe the mods will turn this into a sticky.
____________________________________ "I DON'T LIKE REPEAT OFFENDERS......I LIKE DEAD OFFENDERS"---Ted Nugent
Nice write up!! The ride height looks perfect, I love it!
Do you notice any noise from the front springs without the isolators? I just installed a pair of 800 # fronts in my car with a 1/4 coil cut off. With the isolators the car is still about 1/2" to high. I'm considering removing at least the upper and possibly the lower. I'm just concerned about potenial noise from the metal to metal contact.
Darin
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03' Dark Shadow Grey Cobra
-JLT CAI, 2.80, Ported TB/Plenum, Stage III Eaton, MAF extender, upgraded fuel pump wiring, Bassani catted X, FM "amer. thunder" cat back, MGW shifter, 15% tint, MM full length subs, MM C/C plates, MM aluminum rack bushings, GordsFord HE in "stealth" black, Eibach's, Torsen T2R rear diff and complete IRS bushing kit.
No noise yet!! When you hit a bump in the road you notice a little bit of noise but nothing worth leaving them on.
Thanks for the comments guys, I love the springs. I would almost say the ride quality is 5x's better. The handling of the car is great, and all around I would highly recommend them. I still need some C&C plates to get the alingment taken care of. I just see the wheels angled up a little like this..
Its a little noisy also at about 80mph, I think its the angle of the wheels, but I know I definatly need an alingment.
This needs to be put under the How To section. Instructions works great. Less that 3 hours for four springs my first time. Thanks.
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1964 Mercury Comet
2003 VTX1300
2004 Cobra 604 rwhp/552 tq with Whipple
2007 V6 Stang 196rwhp/229 tq till it hit the speed limiter lol
I'm want to get the H&R racing springs for my car soon, but where I go to school at has alot of speed bumps (which are a bitch now). Had any problems with any speed bumps or with that set up would it be best to avoid them at all cost?
I just ordered a set of H&R Race Springs - Thanks for all the write ups and Pics! I think I will retain the org. ISO's. Is anything else necessary to do the job, like installing a CC plate, or is that not needed. I will be sure to get an alignment when I am finshed.
I didnt use my iso's and still to this day do not have CC plates. Still havent even gotten an alingment yet, car pulls perfectly straight and no tire wear on the inside.
how does it ride with the race springs? I'm debating between the H&R race and the H&R sports for my 03, ultimately i want a better ride quality while still getting the drop
____________________________________ 1994 GT Vert - SOLD 2001 Cobra Vert - SOLD 2003 Cobra Coupe - OXFORD WHITE - RIP
Ford salesman 23 years and counting 
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