another tire question..

[d4a3m2o1n]

Whats up guys. Well it is time for some new rubber all around on the cobra.. I am looking for some better traction on the street and track, but the car barely sees the track so I need some tires that can be driven in rain and such. I plan to purchase a set of AFS 10.5 replicas, and throw some 335's on there.. However, I am trying to decide whether or not it would even be worth it to buy the 10.5 rims and add the extra width to the tire, or if i should just throw some 315 DRs on the stockers and see similar results (as far as traction goes).

Just to make it a little bit more clear for you guys, I just want to know..

-What tires you've had the best experience with (nitto, bfg, etc.)
-Whether or not it is worth it to upgrade to the wider rim/335 combo.
-What size front tires should I go with (right now i have 285s)

*Note: I LOVE getting this thing sideways around turns and doing long high mph burnouts and such when exiting turns, so if i got the 10.5 rims w/ sticky tires i would also throw some crappy street tires on the 2 remaining stockers to have fun with. I do want to be able to run both sets on the street, though, so the 335's can't be the kind of DR's that can only see dry roads.

I know this post kinda jumps all over the place, and has various different questions associated with tires, but any help is appreciated.. thanks! :beer:

 

[d4a3m2o1n]

anyone?

 

[Sniperdog]

try some toyo r888's, I have a set of 315/35/18 on a set of 18x11 rims and they hook great, but it's not a track car :thumbsup:

 

[d4a3m2o1n]

try some toyo r888's, I have a set of 315/35/18 on a set of 18x11 rims and they hook great, but it's not a track car :thumbsup:

how much did you pay - i misread your post at first and thought you said they look great (which they do haha). i havent found them for cheaper them 340 a pc!!

 

[mach1033]

R888's or RA-1's. Both have great traction in dry and wet weather. But they are R compunds so the tread wont last long and there not a cold weather tire. I had Nitto 555 extremes and they last very long but if you make 500 or more hp than forget about any traction 1st through 3rd. The NT05's are very good as well but like the Toyo's they are a summer only tire. Those are the ones that I had experience with or had a friend who had them. Do you DD your car alot? And what kind of power are you making?

 

[d4a3m2o1n]

i DD the car yes and am at the stock power level.. but not for long - i am going to HBH as soon as the weather is a little nicer and getting a 2.76 + 4lb lower ported blower combo, so i WILL be at around 520/520 according to others who have cars with similar mods.. even with stock power, though, i burn through tires just normal driving and like you said, under WOT forget about any traction in 1st and 2nd... haven't experienced loss of traction in 3rd yet unless its wet.

 

[Jimmysidecarr]

DRs are going to be bad in the rain. They are a drag racing tire, and they don't drag race in the rain.

Road racing DOT approved treaded R compounds, have to be good in the rain, because road racers run in the rain.
Even though they have less tread depth than a full street tire... they ARE GOOD in the rain, and around corners.
They will wear just as fast as most DRs, but they also HOOK almost as good, yet have a handling type side wall with good stiffness.

Full street tires that have good rain and hook characteristics are:
Nitto NT05
Falken 615K
Kumho XS
And there are others,
I mentioned those because they are reasonably priced and therefor not a big deal to burn up, where as the awesome R888s(which are R compound road racing tire) are pretty damn pricey. They are also an incredible tire!
:rockon:
For full streets look at extreme summer only performance tires with a wear number under 200, over 200 and they are not going to hook all that well.

 

[d4a3m2o1n]

thank you very much!

 

[d4a3m2o1n]

One question though - should i keep my 315 or go with a 335? whats the advantages/disadvantages to doing this?

 

[Teej281]

335 vs. 315...ill shed some light here. 335's are going to require that you run wheel spacers, and more than likely you'll have to run 3/8" spacers that are going to require you to run longer wheel studs and roll the fenders. Also, you should be aware that any size tire that you put on there over stock you should get the button head subframe bolt from MM or grind yours down to prevent contact of bolt-to-tire and cause a blowout.

I just went through this whole process, just rolled the fenders tonight actually. Spacers and wheel studs are on their way to my house from lethal so thats taken care of. Overall, the 335's I think are going to be worth it, but it is a pain in the butt trying to figure out exactly what all needs done on a time frame like I've been on. Friend is mounting my tires so i need to make sure he is working but luckily he'll be available later this week after the spacers get here.