Low and High Speed Cooling Fan Tempatures

PowerWheels

Anti-Bullshit
Established Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2003
Messages
6,630
Location
AL
What is everyone running as far as low speed and high speed fan cut-on temps?
 

T-Pain808

I Love Asian Girls!!!
Established Member
Joined
Jun 30, 2007
Messages
3,383
Location
Hawaii
Can't help you there, I just have a switch hooked up so I can turn it on anytime I want too. :beer:
 

MVD

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2005
Messages
1,897
Location
Somewhere out there
Low - 184ish
High - 196ish

Depends on what thermostat you are using as well. I know while crusinig my fan never even comes on.
 

PowerWheels

Anti-Bullshit
Established Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2003
Messages
6,630
Location
AL
low on - 190
high on - 200

high off - 185
low off -180

Are you running the stock thermostat? My tune came set at 194 for the low fan cut-on and and 204 for the high it seems to stay on almost all the time.
 
Last edited:

AaronK

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2008
Messages
2,398
Location
Texas
Stock stat with 4 1/8" holes drilled in it. I don't see over 194 unless it is over 90 outside and I am in traffic.

I hate to hijack but I've heard of drilling holes in it before but where do you drill them at and what is the point of this?
 

LargeOrangeFont

Raise your fist in resist
Established Member
Joined
Nov 8, 2004
Messages
4,271
Location
So Cal, South OC
I hate to hijack but I've heard of drilling holes in it before but where do you drill them at and what is the point of this?

The stock 180 stat does not fully open until 210. Replacement T stats are not high flow units like the stock one. Drilling makes the car run a bit cooler and stay more consistent.

You drill the holes in the top plate of the T stat, not the mounting flange where the o ring sits.
 

jm@ReischePerf

Owner & Operations Mgr
Established Member
Premium Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2006
Messages
4,628
Location
San Antonio
Drilling makes the car run a bit cooler and stay more consistent.
I know we've debated this before but I don't think it's a great idea to drill holes in the thermostat.

Be advised that if you do this the engine will take longer to reach operating temps, especially during the cooler months when you get on the freeway right away. I'm running the Stant 170* and see good results with it, runs slightly cooler than it did on the stocker with holes drilled. Also running 20% coolant/80% water and Water Wetter with these fan settings:

FAN ECT1 HIGH ON 190
FAN ECT2 HIGH ON 190
FAN HIGH OFF 186
FAN LOW OFF 186
FAN LOW ON 186
 

LargeOrangeFont

Raise your fist in resist
Established Member
Joined
Nov 8, 2004
Messages
4,271
Location
So Cal, South OC
The stant 170 is not a high flow unit, and I'm not sure if the bypass is of the correct size.

You will want to adjust the amount of holes you drill to your climate. I live in So Cal so I use 4 and it works well. Colder parts of the country will want to use fewer holes.
 

LargeOrangeFont

Raise your fist in resist
Established Member
Joined
Nov 8, 2004
Messages
4,271
Location
So Cal, South OC
Ditto, I would also liek to see some pics and a quick how to.
Anyone?


The thermostat is under the car, right off the radiator outlet.

Before you do ANYTHING make sure you can remove the plug in the coolant cross tube.

Remove the 2 screws in the thermostat housing and the coolant will drain out. Then open the housing and remove the thermostat. Be aware more water may come out if you did not let it drain long enough. Drill it and reinstall the thermostat in the housing, and bolt the housing together.

Fill the radiator from the coolant tank until it gets to the full line, and put on the cap.

Top off the coolant from the crossover tube. When it is full replace the plug and finger tighten it, or SLIGHTLY more.

Fire the car and let it warm up amd make sure the car is burped. It should be good or very close if you filled it how I described.
 

PowerWheels

Anti-Bullshit
Established Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2003
Messages
6,630
Location
AL
Thanks, I guess what I'm thinking is not only does an aftermarket thermostat need to open say above 190 all the way, but it must flow better than the stock one or it's not going to cool the car any more efficiently. So If I don't drill the stocker, whats the best aftermarket High Flow Unit? Say a 180 degree one? I've got 75k on the original, might as well change it anyway.
 

LargeOrangeFont

Raise your fist in resist
Established Member
Joined
Nov 8, 2004
Messages
4,271
Location
So Cal, South OC
Thanks, I guess what I'm thinking is not only does an aftermarket thermostat need to open say above 190 all the way, but it must flow better than the stock one or it's not going to cool the car any more efficiently. So If I don't drill the stocker, whats the best aftermarket High Flow Unit? Say a 180 degree one? I've got 75k on the original, might as well change it anyway.

I have not seen an aftermarket one that will flow as much as the stock stat. The diameter of the OEM poppet is the largest I have seen for the application. I have not seen the KB 180 though. It is probably a Stant or equivelent.
 
Last edited:

Jimmysidecarr

Semi user friendly
Established Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2003
Messages
14,395
Location
Spring, Texas, United States
Before the questionable Evans stat, I ran a drilled stocker for three year of Texas open tracking.

If you daily drive in a cold climate drill less or smaller holes. I use (4) 3/16"

I concour with LargeOrangeFont on the fan kick points also.

Home Depot/Lowes/Ace hardware/True Value, deeper/wider air dam mod works well too.
 

SVTkel

SVTKel
Established Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2005
Messages
3,829
Location
North
The thermostat is under the car, right off the radiator outlet.

Before you do ANYTHING make sure you can remove the plug in the coolant cross tube.

Remove the 2 screws in the thermostat housing and the coolant will drain out. Then open the housing and remove the thermostat. Be aware more water may come out if you did not let it drain long enough. Drill it and reinstall the thermostat in the housing, and bolt the housing together.

Fill the radiator from the coolant tank until it gets to the full line, and put on the cap.

Top off the coolant from the crossover tube. When it is full replace the plug and finger tighten it, or SLIGHTLY more.

Fire the car and let it warm up amd make sure the car is burped. It should be good or very close if you filled it how I described.

Okay thanks.
 

jm@ReischePerf

Owner & Operations Mgr
Established Member
Premium Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2006
Messages
4,628
Location
San Antonio
The diameter of the OEM poppet is the largest I have seen for the application.
True, the opening is larger on the stock stat but I see slightly lower and more consistent temps from the Stant unit.
Home Depot/Lowes/Ace hardware/True Value, deeper/wider air dam mod works well too.
Thanks... I have considered giving this a try so I'm glad to know you got good results.
 

Users who are viewing this thread



Top