Piston rings failing, probably need rebuild, south fl

[333arod333]

Well I finally did a leak down test and there is definite leakage past the rings. When I put a stethoscope in the dipstick tube it sounds like wind in the crankcase. It also smokes unde heavy throttle blue smoke as well as on start up. Everyone is telling me that it's pretty much gonna b a rebuild soon and not to give the car any heavy throttle. I don't hav the money to just get it rebuilt and I like to do my own work. Thing is I don't hav all the engine lifts and stands etc nor the 100% know how. Is there anyone in the south Florida area that takes these engines apart all the time and would b willing to help me out with working on a rebuild? I hav maybe a grand but I'm guessing a rebuild at any shop would b like 4 so that's not even on my horizon. Wiling to spend the grand though and get parts. I appreciate the help guys.

 

[Ironhand]

Wish I was back in FL to help ya out.

 

[333arod333]

Me too iron hand. I'm hoping there are some local gear heads that wouldnt mind helping me out with a rebuild and schooling me on this.

 

[Scotty B]

What were your % per cylinder. There is always some leakage.

 

[333arod333]

Well the guy did t hav a gauge we just loaded the cylinder with shop air. It was 120 psi I think and it was enough force to turn the motor over until the piston was at tdc and then slipped to bottom on compression stroke. That's good right? Anyone suggest any of those magic in a bottle piston ring seal solutions?

 

[Jimmysidecarr]

Well the guy did t hav a gauge we just loaded the cylinder with shop air. It was 120 psi I think and it was enough force to turn the motor over until the piston was at tdc and then slipped to bottom on compression stroke. That's good right? Anyone suggest any of those magic in a bottle piston ring seal solutions?

Are you freaking serious? No, you are not going to accomplish shit doing that.

Do a real compression test, or a real leak down test and after that take a bore-o-scope to the bad cylinders and take a look at the top of the pistons and the top ring lands.

You are also going nowhere fast with only 1,000 dollars,:nonono::dw: with or without a helper.

 

[333arod333]

I did do a real compression test and they were all within one or two of 185 except for the one that is a problem at 157. That leakdown test was just becaus I didn't have the gauges Nobkdy around rent leakdown gauges and everyone I called was giving me a run around and wanted $100 bucks even tho I only needed that cylinder tested. Boroscope showed virtually no scrapes or marring in the side of cylinder walls. Ironhand said I should avoid driving it all together until I can rebuild. I kno $1000 is nothing I was just saying this is what I hav right now. Only want a stock setup with ap stainless rings and some nice hardware so I don't think I'll b spending on pistons rods n crank. Sorry i didnt mention these things all at first. What do u think?

 

[Brutal Metal]

If your gonna dismantle the block pony up the cash and at least get new pistons. South Florida encompasses a large area where are you?

 

[333arod333]

yes i completely agree! Im working on a way to squeeze out some more cash so i can get this done asap. what will some 550 whp pistons cost me? i dont think i need top of the line but should upgrade from factory if im in the block. Do you guys think I shouldnt b driving the cobra at all??? I live in hollywood, florida and im actually going to be in islamorada this coming week. thanks for the help guys

 

[333arod333]

im waiting to hear jimmysidecarr's input on my response to his reply..... i know he knows these cars inside and out

 

[Hangman]

I posted this in your other thread in engine/tuning, I just pasted it over.

Hey bud, Torq sent my engine for the tear down and diagnosis to MPR Racing Engines after the damage on the dyno, the owners name is Tim Eichorn, he has a nice shop and knows his stuff. He was recommended by Paul at Torq, apparently he is the guy building there engines for them.

I have been to his shop personally and it is clean and professional, he also has his own honing machine. Funny enough, after I saw his warehouse I am now looking of moving in the same area there for my business.

Only thing for me is I felt he charged a little much to just receive an engine on a stand, disassemble only halfway, provide diagnosis, and then mock reassemble for shipping. $478.00 My opinion but if that is the norm then now I know.

I have also heard on here, if someone is good at what they do pay them what they ask because they are good for it.

He was also recommended by another forum member here as well.

So take it how you want but I would give him a call, he uses Diamond pistons and he can set the clearances exactly how he wants it right in house. Pretty nice.

And if I were you, I would suck it up and get some nice pistons in there. Your motor would be almost bulletproof. Then take the time and put your own motor back in, should be fun as long as this isn't your daily driver.

MPR Racing Engines
170 Commerce Road Suite 3
Boynton Beach Fl 33426
561-588-0188

 

[Jimmysidecarr]

I did do a real compression test and they were all within one or two of 185 except for the one that is a problem at 157.

That leakdown test was just becaus I didn't have the gauges Nobkdy around rent leakdown gauges and everyone I called was giving me a run around and wanted $100 bucks even tho I only needed that cylinder tested.
Boroscope showed virtually no scrapes or marring in the side of cylinder walls. Ironhand said I should avoid driving it all together until I can rebuild.

I kno $1000 is nothing I was just saying this is what I hav right now.

Only want a stock setup with ap stainless rings and some nice hardware so I don't think I'll b spending on pistons rods n crank. Sorry i didnt mention these things all at first. What do u think?

OK sorry that was typed up a little confusing.

I still think arranging a leak down to evaluate just how hurt that cylinder is, would be advisable.

 

[333arod333]

Thank u very much guys. I guess I hav to buy a nice leak down tester and use that to pinpoint exactly how much I'm losing as a percentage. Within 10% is good but if it's on the edge of 10 or more I'm saving for a rebuild right?

Sorry for not separating my paragraph earlier and thanks for the shop recommendation hangman.

 

[333arod333]

Ok so I got 30% leak in the one low cylinder but the mechanic seemed to think it was an exhaust valve problem because now there was howling in the tail pipes.

Only real way to tell is to redo the heads right? Anyone know about how much that would run me at a machine shop? I think I can venture in taking them out and putting them back myself or with a little help but don't have that much money and I'm not convinced this will solve the issue of low compression, i.e. there might b some ring leak too.

 

[Jimmysidecarr]

Ok so I got 30% leak in the one low cylinder but the mechanic seemed to think it was an exhaust valve problem because now there was howling in the tail pipes.

Only real way to tell is to redo the heads right? Anyone know about how much that would run me at a machine shop? I think I can venture in taking them out and putting them back myself or with a little help but don't have that much money and I'm not convinced this will solve the issue of low compression, i.e. there might b some ring leak too.

I would park it and drive your beater for a while, save up and plan on replacing the long block heads and all.

This is not the best car to learn how to build engines on, but definitely worth fixing so as to have a great fun car when all is said and done.

 

[03DSGMach1]

I posted this in your other thread in engine/tuning, I just pasted it over.

Hey bud, Torq sent my engine for the tear down and diagnosis to MPR Racing Engines after the damage on the dyno, the owners name is Tim Eichorn, he has a nice shop and knows his stuff. He was recommended by Paul at Torq, apparently he is the guy building there engines for them.

I have been to his shop personally and it is clean and professional, he also has his own honing machine. Funny enough, after I saw his warehouse I am now looking of moving in the same area there for my business.

Only thing for me is I felt he charged a little much to just receive an engine on a stand, disassemble only halfway, provide diagnosis, and then mock reassemble for shipping. $478.00 My opinion but if that is the norm then now I know.

I have also heard on here, if someone is good at what they do pay them what they ask because they are good for it.

He was also recommended by another forum member here as well.

So take it how you want but I would give him a call, he uses Diamond pistons and he can set the clearances exactly how he wants it right in house. Pretty nice.

And if I were you, I would suck it up and get some nice pistons in there. Your motor would be almost bulletproof. Then take the time and put your own motor back in, should be fun as long as this isn't your daily driver.

MPR Racing Engines
170 Commerce Road Suite 3
Boynton Beach Fl 33426
561-588-0188

Listen to this man!! Tim Eichorn will take care of it for ya:rockon::rockon:

 

[333arod333]

Damn I was hoping i wouldnt have to stop driving it. i have started saving for rebuild but i dont have another car to drive. how bad is it to be driving it, lets say i want to get better pistons anyway on rebuild so i get a bigger bore if it ends up scratching the sidewall.

Really, I'd have to get new heads and all instead of just redoing mine? I have heard that buying a new shortblock and filling with your old stuff is cheaper than rehoning my factory block, but i dont know about aftermarket blocks in there. shouldnt i be focusing on my heads and not rebuilding the whole block?

Thanks 03dsgmach1 i will definitely call tim eichorn to hear his input and get some quotes hopefully.

 

[sxecobra]

insert fast n furious piston rings quote ”here”

 

[03DSGMach1]

Since your going to have to rebuild it I definitely recommend upgrading the pistons, stock ones are good but aftermarket ones are better. As for your heads, you won't know their condition until the motor is disassembled. Hypothetically, they could just need freshening or could be trashed. You could drive your car but you also run a high risk of causing further damage to what could have been a salvageable motor.

When people say shortblock that means its a block fully assembled with crank, rods, pistons, bearings, etc. I think you may have meant buying a new bare block. It could be possible to come out cheaper but IMO the price difference is negligible. Even though you believe it could be just an exhaust valve issue, it would still be wise to find out how that issue came about. Was the valve spring, retainer damaged? Could there have been any piston contact with the valve? Better to get everything looked at rather than fix the head, reinstall it and find out something else is wrong.

If your strapped for cash and need the car running, check to see if Tousley Ford still offers their powertrain program. Last I heard the OEM longblocks went for $4050 with a $2000 core. Here is the link:

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...rs-320/486628-ford-powertrain-specials-4.html

 

[333arod333]

Thanks 03dsg. Can anyone tell me exactly what I'd be risking of breaking if I keep driving it? I thought it was just that it would scrape up cylinder wall worst case scenario and i'd have to rebore and put in bigger bore pistons. what else could go wrong?

Wow $4050 is a good price then I need to get on making some money real fast here. U guys are saying I need to tear down the whole motor to solve this deal just because the heads might not be the only problem in there, but wouldnt that b way cheaper? the reverse of that logic is that i shouldnt redo the whole motor because what if i find out it was just the heads and i didnt need to redo the entire thing. Is it really that much to do the heads that i might as well redo the whole block? Thanks for the help guys i really need it i love this car and i cant even drive it now only had it for 6 months :cryying: