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Cams and intake, going under the knife.

Discussion in 'SN95 Cobras' started by NC Mystic, Feb 6, 2013.

  1. NC Mystic

    NC Mystic New Member Established Member

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    Hey guys, well i finally pulled the trigger and have listed my built 1989 fox coupe for sale and the Cobra is being resurrected.

    I have had an eaton m112 and some 99 Cobra C heads sitting on my floor for years now, i've given up on the eaton and will be selling it. Now that i will have some money to throw at the snake my plan is as follows;

    -get the car operational, i put it down due to a tick, diagnoses pending

    -put a new dash and door panels in the car, mine are trashed

    -flowmaster 10 series dumped, maybe get my nasty looking rusted long tubes powder coated if money allow. X pipe or keep the H? I want it to sound like jet black hate

    -Get tires for the 18x9/10 saleens that have been on my floor for years. Legit center caps in all, rears are true saleens with front replicas.

    -Custom Speed hut guages to my specs, will look just like 96 cluster but no kpm markers and will light up like the termi cluster at night, red SVT added to tach. I also would like a saleen clock pod with oil temp and oil pressure autometer lunar gauges and a speed of sound llc floating a pillar pod set with water temp and trans temp via lunar gauges.

    -MGW shifter? i remember hearing they were just the best. I liked the hurst in my fox but the throw was a little long and the lock in to gear could have felt more solid. open to suggestions here guys

    -get the alpine flip out late 90's dvd player installed

    I am moving to a city vs the rural area i've lived in and think a set of cams would be a lot more realistic than the blower build. I think i would be a little better off on fuel with cams vs blower as well and i just want to drive this thing, i've missed it like hell so a few more mpg would be nice.

    I really enjoyed my fox over the last year and i would guestimate it made just a little over 300, 320 would be very optimistic i'd say but it pulls like a freight train right off idle, and cruising in 2nd gear at 3k and matting it, it eeeaaats. So anything comparable to that would be just great.

    I know gears would make up for a bit of torque feel but i want to keep the stock rear just for the fuel economy and try to make up for the power with the motor.

    96 Cobra COMP cams idle - YouTube

    This video the guy's cobra with stage 2 comp cams sound just great, i'm open to other cam suggestions but i'd like the most lope out of it as possible for a driver. i know it doesn't make much power difference but it just really makes my day when i fire it up or am sitting at a stop light and it's all about the smile factor at the end of the day right?

    He said in the video description he made close to 380, wow. Could i make that in the B heads with cams and work? I could trade the eaton and c heads i have towards a cam or keep the c heads, flip the eaton and get a 99 intake.

    I'd love to make 350-380+, you guys know what i'm working with pretty much parts wise now. What is the most economical way to make it to those numbers? I want a cam with a bad ass lope and unless the compression test tells me i have bad rings i'm going to try and stay out of the bottom end.

    Bronze valve guides for sure. Cam, springs i guess? What am i looking at here? fuel upgrades?

    My oil pan needs replacing i think as well so if you can suggest a higher volume one thats not too low for street use that would be great.

    also i live in nc, so would a mishimoto* (knock off fluidyne, can't remember the name) and a black majic duel fan be the best solution for city stop and go traffic mid summer? again i'd like to go the most reasonable price here without sacrificing reliability.


    I know i'm asking for a lot here guys but i've been out of the game for a while and i'm sure things have kept on moving without me so i'd really appreciate your advice on there matters.

    Thanks for reading everyone
     
  2. NC Mystic

    NC Mystic New Member Established Member

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    also on a side note, a project i had wanted to do for year was get light up window and lock switched in the Cobra like i had in my 2000 Explored Limited (loved that thing, may have to buy another since they're less than $3k now)

    Well according to people that know much more about electrical wiring than i do the mustangs and explorers use different switch systems or something like that and it would be next to impossible.

    I recently got a connection to buy tritium tubes from, the glass vials filled with a radioactive chemical that makes them self luminous. they're used on night sights and marathon goverment issue wrist watches.

    So instead of trying to hack apart explorer switched and wiring led's to the headlight switch i am going to use a tiny soldering iron to make some small grooves in which to places tritium tubes and then cover them/fill in the recessed slots with a clear acrylic type substance (Norlan brand) so there will be permanently lit arrows for the windows and and L and U for the lock buttons, done digital clock style.

    just through i would share and i would be happy to do the mod for anyone else interested. i'll posted pics as soon as i get the tubes in and the project completed.
     
  3. encasedmetal

    encasedmetal WHINO! Established Member

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    keep your stock fan- it's awesome- you just don't know it. and if you're going the N/A route- stick with the C heads. The ones you have aren't the best so if you're going to sell them, make sure to pick up some 03+ C heads instead. The comp stage 2 n/a cams seem to make decent power when degreed properly. For the fuel- you may want to see if you can pick up some cheap 03/04 cobra 39# injectors (you will need ev6 adaptors though)and slap in a walbro 255lph fuel pump. no line upgrades needed. and lastly- you need gears- I know you say you want the max mpg but you will kick yourself if you don't do gears.
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2013
  4. NC Mystic

    NC Mystic New Member Established Member

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    okay, i submit. 3.90 or 4.10 gears?

    Also i really like the aeromotive A1000 pump. I had planned to get the tank sumped and baffled for the blower. i have to get it dropped and drained since it had spoiler fuel in it from sitting so should i sump and baffle it for the N/A build? or just go with the A100 inline with pre and post pump filter and a regulator i assume. If stock termi 39's will suffice let me know if i should run something higher and just dial it back as a better option i will do that i just don't know which is better.

    ev6 adaptors? is that sumarian? haha i really have no idea though. could i run some sort of fuel rails to negate that? i'm rusty in the fuel department info

    when people talk about high compression intakes on c heads what are they doing different than the stock c head upper and lower intake?
     
  5. stangbanger856

    stangbanger856 New Member Established Member

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    Ev6 adapter are just that. The newer style injectore you find on the newer cobras have a different style injector harness so you use them to get them to work. I have them in my 97 with the 60lb injectors I jave. You can get them from anywhere, very common.

    Also I have never heard of a "high compression intake" maybe there confused for a short runner intake. (Stock intake manifold that is custom cut to shorten the length of the intake runners to net more HP)
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2013
  6. encasedmetal

    encasedmetal WHINO! Established Member

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    you do not need a sump or the aeromotive pump and filters. simply clean your tank, put a walbro 255 in (110 bux), some injectors (the 39# are a little on the big side for your app but they can be had for cheap and they're easy to tune so...). I would definately go with 4.10 gears, as the 3.90 gears are only offered from motive and are known to whine. the ev6 adaptors were explained in the above post. as far as your intake- high compression has to do with the pistons used (which stock are not considered high comp.) the best intake you can use is a fr500 intake but it's expensive, so the best option for you is a ported short runner 99/01 intake or even a mach 1 intake.
     
  7. NC Mystic

    NC Mystic New Member Established Member

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    great advice, thank you

    since i already have the 99 c heads should i just have them ported and cammed or is it really worth going to 04's? i thought the only difference was a slight flow increase and more spark plug threads but i guess not

    i don't have a good feel for the used parts market anymore. Could i even trade my eaton for a 99/01 cobra (upper and lower i guess?) intake so i can run the C heads? i had all the details on my last laptop but i died about a month ago. . .
    if it's not an even trade what would a be a reasonable amount of cash for me to offer with the trade to make it fair? hope this is an okay place to ask that question, seems to be the best spot

    also it says in that video he's on a stock rotating assembly so i don't know what hci would mean, short runners i guess? it says he has a 99 intake so no fr500 there.

    380 on a pump/injectors and stage 2 or 3 cams? really? bronze valve guides and what kind of springs? am i overlooking something expensive here other than the cams haha?
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2013
  8. encasedmetal

    encasedmetal WHINO! Established Member

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    For what ur looking to spend, just get a valve job on your 99 heads. Bronze guides are expensive so only get them if your machine shop finds your oem guides to be out of tolerance. As for the eaton, they're relatively worthless without some of the other swap parts. The car you keep referencing is chrissvt on here. He had stage 2 cams, 03/04 heads, comp springs, full exhaust, 99/01 intake and tune iirc.
     
  9. encasedmetal

    encasedmetal WHINO! Established Member

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    As for the head porting, from what i've seen and been told, its not very beneficial with the c heads especially considering the money.
     
  10. na svt

    na svt say no to power adders Established Member

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    Comp doesn't make "stage" cams. For n/a they have the 106060s, 106100s, 106160s, 106200s, 106300s, 106400s and 106500s.

    Here's what I recommend if you stay with B heads:
    short runner intake
    cams: comp 106160s installed at 109/114
    1 3/4" long tubes
    stock valve springs
    stock heads
    stock injectors (they can support 380rw)
    stock fuel pump
    90mm lightning MAF

    this will make 355-365 and have an idle similar to the one in the video
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2013
  11. encasedmetal

    encasedmetal WHINO! Established Member

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    x2
     
  12. ZD302GT

    ZD302GT Zach Established Member

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    Don't you mean Chris Scott?
     
  13. NC Mystic

    NC Mystic New Member Established Member

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    i really like the sound of this. is there anything else i could throw into that recipe to get me a little closer to the 380 mark or is that number more realistic with a C head swap?

    365 really wouldn't be bad at all for a nearly daily driver though. i could always procharge down the road.

    do i still have to go out and have a shop fab up a short runner for me or is there someone selling them now?
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2013
  14. na svt

    na svt say no to power adders Established Member

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    380 is unrealistic is out of the question for B heads.
     
  15. NC Mystic

    NC Mystic New Member Established Member

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    I tried searching but i must not be entering the right key words for what is needed for the c head intake swap.

    NA, i'd really like to shoot for 380 even if it means the 99 intake swap
    could i run?;

    -99 intake swap parts, if someone can link to a thread with the correct list of parts that would be killer
    -_____ cam of your recommendation and degree recommendation
    -what to do to the fuel system?
    -i'm sure i'm overlooking something

    thank you very much for the help
     
  16. na svt

    na svt say no to power adders Established Member

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    The c head swap adds huge power in the low and midrange RPMs and a moderate amount in the upper RPMs. I could spec you a combo that will get close to 380 but can't ensure it. In fact, no one has made 380n/a with stock heads and cams. You can spend a lotta money chasing power.

    C head swap:
    heads, milled .030"
    lower intake
    adapter for the B upper
    throttle and cruise cables
    modded B fuel rails
    modded B coolant crossover
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2013
  17. NC Mystic

    NC Mystic New Member Established Member

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    that sounds beautiful. i understand it's no gurantees but the closer the better.
    my cruise doesn't work anyway so that's one less thing, i assume the system could just be removed. if there is other stuff than the above list i need i'd be happy to pay you a fee to spec me out a proper build for what i'm going for.

    Thanks for all the help. the car has 50 miles on it since the repaint, i'm going to feel like i won the lottery the next time i get to take it for a drive.
     
  18. Ciotti

    Ciotti See-ahh-tee Established Member

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    Love this thread, I should be bringing mine back from the dead with a similar build later this year.
     
  19. encasedmetal

    encasedmetal WHINO! Established Member

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    yes, sorry.
     
  20. NC Mystic

    NC Mystic New Member Established Member

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    with 350-380 best case possible and a 4:10 gear what top speed would i be looking at?
    my fox has a 3.73 i believe it it pretty much hits the wall around 120, and although i don't need to go 200 i do miss 150-160
     

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