How To Adjust Clutch Cable

John2122

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Man, I have a Steeda Tri Ax shifter, and I have absolutely hated it here lately because my car was shifting like shit. I just did this mod and whoa what a difference! I may not get rid of this car after all. Thanks for the info!
 

Shadow Grey 03

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I think I may have shot a little in my pants when I could finally hit the gears in this thing. I got three clicks out of it last night and took it out today and all I can say is thank you to whoever had this idea. I was starting to hate trying to shift the damn thing, now it goes in with ease.
 

LeddZepp8687

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Here is a weird one for you guys.....

Cable Pops off by accident. Completely unrelated to anything we were working on. I find that the pedal was all slack. Cable had popped off at the clutch fork, so I put it back on.

So I tried the Ford reccomended reset procedure. No luck.

Used the butt end of a hammer and got a few clicks out of it. Pedal is higher and still engages.

BUT the big problem is, No reverse. Engages just fine 1st thru 6th but I am completely locked out of reverse.

I'm at wits end with this thing...

What gives? What should I do?
 
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LeddZepp8687

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Well looks like the lockout switch's fuse popped or something. I was able to muscle it into reverse.

The clutch pedal is fairly high and I did not bend the metal away. Any way to lower it down a little bit? Although with the pedal up high would make for some nice shifts :)
 

blu88notch

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Problem is, that the factory quadrant eventually will loose adjustment after a while. I can adjust it and it works great untill I hammer on it a few times, and then i have to get back under an give it 2 clicks again. It is a weak setup and the teeth slip after a few hard shifts. As long as i take it easy, the adjustment will stay. That is why I am going aftermarket. My pedal is a little higher as well, but worth it for now.
 
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kirks5oh

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guys, honestly AVOID this mod---it gave me nothing but headaches--my clutch grabbed too high after doing this mod--that's right GRABBED TOO HIGH--read my previous posts in this thread. if you're going to spend the time underneath the dash of your car (it is a pain in the ass, especially if you're big)---just replace the damn quadrant and get a firewall adjuster.

i just bought and installed the fiore kit, and must say it is EXCELLENT. i have full adjustability, and the clutch pedal has a more solid 'feel' to it--hard to describe.

while i was under the dash, i bent the metal piece back into place, and yes, it was almost just as hard to bend it back.

just my $.02
 

jm@ReischePerf

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guys, honestly AVOID this mod---it gave me nothing but headaches--
I would have liked it if you wouldn't have posted this. Few people have had issues with the mod. As far as I can tell either you had broken something or adjusted too many clicks and put too much tension on the cable/clutch. This is a how to thread for people who DON'T WANT to purchase an aftermarket piece and it works fine if the adjustment/mod is done properly.
 

jm@ReischePerf

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Problem is, that the factory quadrant eventually will loose adjustment after a while. I can adjust it and it works great untill I hammer on it a few times, and then i have to get back under an give it 2 clicks again. It is a weak setup and the teeth slip after a few hard shifts. As long as i take it easy, the adjustment will stay.
No, the adjustment is not staying because you didn't bend/cut the metal plate so the auto-adjuster just releases the tension :shrug:

Honestly if you're going to do the mod read ALL the info in the thread carefully before and be sure you understand what to do! Please do not post unless you've completed the mod because it could cause some confusion becoming counterproductive.
 
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jm@ReischePerf

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The clutch pedal is fairly high
Yes once adjusted properly the pedal will engage higher than before, this was discussed earlier in the thread.
I did not bend the metal away.
IF YOU DO NOT BEND OR CUT THE PLATE OUT OF THE WAY THIS MOD WILL NOT WORK!

I don't know how many times this has to be repeated but it is crucial because the auto-adjuster will put the slack right back in once the pedal comes up hard enough.
 
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kirks5oh

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I would have liked it if you wouldn't have posted this. Few people have had issues with the mod. As far as I can tell either you had broken something or adjusted too many clicks and put too much tension on the cable/clutch. This is a how to thread for people who DON'T WANT to purchase an aftermarket piece and it works fine if the adjustment/mod is done properly.

hey, i'm just telling it how it happened with my car. nothing was/is broken on my car, the teeth simply would not hold their position due to the spring-loaded action of the quadrant. none of the teeth were broken or damaged--i can take a picture, the quadrant is sitting on my workbench right now.

a new quadrant and firewall adjuster can be had for $60 if you get UPR, or $100 for fiore. if you're going to hassle like crazy to bend that metal tab out of the way, you might as well just buy the quadrant--it is much easier to install, and you don't have to bend a thick metal plate--it will give you more adjustablility, and a more solid adjustment at that--not dependent on teeth engagement that will slip if you're the least bit rough when shifting. people who can't fork over $50 for a quadrant shouldn't own one of these cars--just my opinion--wish i would have done the new quadrant earlier, but i didn't know it would be as easy as it was to do.
 

jm@ReischePerf

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the teeth simply would not hold their position due to the spring-loaded action of the quadrant. none of the teeth were broken or damaged-- if you're going to hassle like crazy to bend that metal tab out of the way, you might as well just buy the quadrant--it is much easier to install, and you don't have to bend a thick metal plate--it will give you more adjustablility, and a more solid adjustment at that--
It's apparent that you were having some kind of problem with your quadrant that others are NOT, so just because there are no teeth broken doesn't mean there isn't something wrong with it. I don't doubt that an aftermarket quadrant/adj has it's advantages over the stocker but that's not the point of this thread. However I doubt that swapping the entire quadrant/adj is easier than bending/cutting a piece of metal. Doing anything under that dash is going to be a PITA.
 
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kirks5oh

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However I doubt that swaping the entire quadrant/adj is easier than bending a piece of metal. Doing anything under that dash is going to be a PITA.

the quadrant is remarkably easy to install. and when you bend the plate backwards, you run it into the reverse lockout switch (i think that's what that is), and may have issues with that.

to those that want to do it, fine--i'm just stating the issue that i had. i did the mod correctly, and i understand how everything works with the stock quadrant.
 

jm@ReischePerf

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when you bend the plate backwards, you run it into the reverse lockout switch (i think that's what that is), and may have issues with that.
True, you do have to be careful that this switch is properly aligned and functioning with the clutch operation. The switch tells the comp that the clutch is disengaged and allows the starter to be operated.
 

kirks5oh

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by no means am i trying to rain on the parade with my posts--if this mod works, great--but if not, you might have to get a new quadrant/firewall adjuster. i did this mod early last summer, and spent the rest of the summer with a clutch that grabbed too high, and occasionally would "click" too far, and slip. part of my frustration is my fault for not doing the aftermarket quadrant sooner
 

jm@ReischePerf

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occasionally would "click" too far, and slip.
What you have to realize is that there is no way this should happen. The metal plate has nothing to do with the adjuster gears skipping a tooth when you push down on the clutch. I still think something got bent, misaligned or broken at some point when you did the mod.
 

kirks5oh

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What you have to realize is that there is no way this should happen. The metal plate has nothing to do with the adjuster gears skipping a tooth when you push down on the clutch. I still think something got bent, misaligned or broken at some point when you did the mod.

i know that the reason to bend the plate out of the way is to prevent the quadrant from readjusting if you let off the clutch too hard. my quadrant never skipped a tooth when i depressed the pedal. it was when i let up on the clutch pedal that the quadrant clicked. instead of clicking back to a position that would cause the clutch to grab too low (like if you had let the metal plate stay there), it would click to a position where the clutch would grab even higher up, sometimes to a position that would slip (this rarely happened, but it did happen a few times)
 

jm@ReischePerf

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it was when i let up on the clutch pedal that the quadrant clicked. instead of clicking back to a position that would cause the clutch to grab too low (like if you had let the metal plate stay there), it would click to a position where the clutch would grab even higher up
Regardless, that's not supposed to happen. Almost sounds like something was coming into contact with the "add tension" side of the adjuster when the pedal came up. But it's pointless to try and diagnose at this point.
 
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freight hauler

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Just read the entire thread. Described my problem to a "t." Great info and excellent post, thank you for all your efforts.
 

03Cobra1969

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I did this last night, and it was actually fun to row through the gears again! Huge improvement, easy to do, and well worth the few minutes it takes.

Thanks for sharing this info!
Steve
 

99stanger

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I did this yesterday after I was questioning myself whether or not I needed a new clutch regardless to say this worked wonders and shifts like butter.
 

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