painting

thebestdj07

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prime the whole car 3 heavy coats. that will gaurentee your dont have any assholes when you paint. get a flat block and some 3m guide coat. rub the guide coat over the whole car and wetsand with 600. untill you dont see any of the black from the guide coat. make sure to keep your block flat that will also show any low spots you can address with filler or not worry about it depending how far you want to go.
 

thebestdj07

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also if your painting in that gaurage get some plastic from lowes or whereever and cover everything. wet your floor, your gona need to vent it also, make sure to get a respirator. or you will be sicker then a dog. also get some fisheye remover so your paint dont have issues from all the stuff in the gaurage (1cap full per full cup you mix) . dont spray any armor all in there or patrolium based product. make sure to use wax and grease remover before you paint.
 

Snakesvt04

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also if your painting in that gaurage get some plastic from lowes or whereever and cover everything. wet your floor, your gona need to vent it also, make sure to get a respirator. or you will be sicker then a dog. also get some fisheye remover so your paint dont have issues from all the stuff in the gaurage (1cap full per full cup you mix) . dont spray any armor all in there or patrolium based product. make sure to use wax and grease remover before you paint.

yes, i have a window on the side that i was going to put a fan to vent...and plans were to cover in plasric everything. thanks on the tips, i will prime as you mention 3 coats
 

65x2

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Helpful, if you start seeing metal while doing bodywork....stop. Address the issues. If you see a new layer show up, stop and check it out. Don't depend on just your vision, use your hand too. Putting a shop towel on your hand can aid in picking up imperfections.
The more 2k you apply to the car, the more room you have to work with. Start off light, while spraying 2k isn't anything like spraying clear, you'll get a nice feel for the gun and movement. Then you can add heavier coats as needed.
Guide coat is a great way to see how you're doing. But 3M guide coat at 40 bucks a pop may be more than you want to drop. You can get away with a can of aerosol that's contrasting in color to your primer and just put a dust coat over the entire car. You can also use this method while doing bodywork. I prefer the dry coat when working filler though as it seems to find the nooks and crannies better.

I'd try to work one panel at a time. Take it slow as this is a daunting task. Don't expect to lay a block on your 2k and have it razor straight the first time. Go to home depot and pick up a few straight paint paddles. They're cheaper than a set of durablocks or anything of the sort and they'll work fine. I usually hit my 2k with 400 then 600.

Again...can't stress this enough. Respirator. A buddy in the shop I work with has a constant cough from never wearing one while in school.


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Snakesvt04

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do i primer and then fill...or fill first. what is best to use when wiping down for clean up before spray and on what, a rag cloth?
 

65x2

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do i primer and then fill...or fill first. what is best to use when wiping down for clean up before spray and on what, a rag cloth?

What shape was the last paint job in? Flaking or anything?

If you're not taking the car down to the bare metal, then you can just fill over the existing paintwork (if in okay shape and not to thick) and then prime. If you're dealing with bare metal, then I'd epoxy prime and then fill and then 2K.

Before putting any filler on the car, you need to rough the areas to be filled with a much rougher grit than 320. Before applying filler I use 80. Read the directions of each product and it should give you a recommendation.

Prior to sanding the car at all, you should have soap and water washed. Then wiped down with a wax and grease remover. Otherwise you're just pounding the contaminants into the paint. You'll probably be OK if you didn't, just a good idea to do so.

But you can wipe the panel down with a wax and grease remover using shop rags.

Though a final wipe I prefer to use lint free rags, but they'll be more costly. Also invest in a few good tack cloths as you'll wipe over everything with those prior to painting.

I like Z-Grip as a filler, it cuts nice and won't break the bank. Rage is a great filler, but doesn't cut as quickly as Z-Grip IMO. Napa has a brand of filler I've used a couple times and it blows. Pinholes like crazy, doesn't cut for anything and was chunky. Looked more like Skippy's peanut butter than filler.

As far as a finishing glaze I've used Evercoat and like it a lot. Though its pricey. As far as cheaper glaze, this Dupont stuff rocks. It cuts better than anything I've used, though it will pinhole if you try to load it up for more than just a tight swipe.

Good luck man!
 

65x2

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mustang008.jpg

Is your quarter pulled in where it meets the bumper? I've never owned a fox, but something about that doesn't look right.

Also, if you're not removing the glass and want to still have a quality job, use some lift tape on the trim. It has a hard edge that you can slip under the weather stripping and lift it away from the body to allow paint to get under there and avoid having a paint line right against the trim.
 
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Snakesvt04

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Is your quarter pulled in where it meets the bumper? I've never owned a fox, but something about that doesn't look right.

Also, if you're not removing the glass and want to still have a quality job, use some lift tape on the trim. It has a hard edge that you can slip under the weather stripping and lift it away from the body to allow paint to get under there and avoid having a paint line right against the trim.

There is a plastic piece missing there. Thanks for info on the tape. That sight has some good stuff too
 

65x2

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Looks clean! But man that booth is filthy! Checking spray pattern on the walls SMH
 

jbrown1238

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Looks clean! But man that booth is filthy! Checking spray pattern on the walls SMH

Yes, it was pretty bad. I rented it for 24 hours and spent about 15 or 16 hours in there between wrapping the car, setting up disassembled panels, painting, and a quick/partial reassembly to drive it home. I brought my own moisture trap and hose after seeing the booth before paint day.
 
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thebestdj07

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Yes, it was pretty bad. I rented it for 24 hours and spent about 15 or 16 hours in there between wrapping the car, setting up disassembled panels, painting, and a quick/partial reassembly to drive it home. I brought my own moisture trap and hose after seeing the booth before paint day.

looks nice. what clear did you use on that?
 

KTTrucks

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If you use PVC piping and plastic, you can mimic a spray booth in your garage: this way you can control airflow and not get overspray on all your tools and everything else in the garage. You can direct the air the way you want, and control your lighting by lighting on the outside of the plastic ( no explosion proof lights necessary then...) You should try for "Positive airflow" IE- more air coming in than going out. This creates an envelope over the car and forces contamination ( dust) away from the wet paint. Your inlet air needs to be coming in from up high, exhaust air down low. Air is dirtier right above the floor.

Filter your incoming air as well as the exhaust.... and once you're done spraying you can disassemble the booth, throw the plastic away, and store it until next time you need it.

KT
 

65x2

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Tcpglobal has some. Or just find a local autobody supplier.

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