Recent content by jn2

Panic now, find out who tuned it and what all they did in the tune. NO amount of drive cycles will work if they disabled the monitors or didn't set the tune up correctly. The drive cycles can be done over a day, one them requires turning the car on when ECT is within 10*f of ambient...

Dipping at idle could be a few things, could be the decal gain, too much fuel maybe bogging it down until fuel trims correct for it or it could also be the idle airflow being set up incorrectly...

Your tune needs some massaging still, to get decel fueling you want to adjust the decel gain: Engine>Fuel>Transient>Deceleration Gain Exhaust popping during decel is from DFCO, make sure it's set up correctly, stock settings work well, but it could be popping extra loud because your decel...

That's a fair install price for a shop. I would DIY it, but if you don't feel comfortable doing electrical and hose routing then having the shop do it is fine.

You have to get new hoses in order to re-route the set up. Hoses are cheap at most parts stores. You want to connect the tanks lower fitting to the pumps inlet and then set up the pumps outlet to go to the intercooler in the manifold. From the manifold the hose should be routed to your heat...

Sai Li system will get the job done

how much shipped to 78727?

IIRC it's 0-5v and the temperature readings go from -40*f to 240*f...forgot which end is which though, not sure if -40* is 0v or 5v. HPtuners does have the ability to read both IAT1 and IAT2 with out issues, you just add the Air Intake Temp 2 channel and you are set.

Just put SP471's on a 10' with a trinity TVS on a 2.5" pulley and they are holding up just fine. TR6 are stock heat range, if you want colder go SP471 or TR7

On the copperhead ECMs(11+) positive knock retard means the ECM is pulling timing. The stock tune has the maximum set to 1* of retard, so if you are seeing +1* right now but the car is running fine and there is no audible knock, then chances are it could just be blower, engine, or exhaust...

Have him go to Engine>Fuel>Open and Closed Loop>Cranking Fuel>Fuel Cranking vs ECT> set the 90*f and up rows to 1 and the row below 90* to .98 That should prevent spraying too much fuel while cranking in the summer and spray just enough extra to turn over when it's cold. Cold starts with e85...

Sounds about right for a Mustang Dyno

CJ with mono blade and PMAS intake on mine drives like stock. Very good street manners. Parking lot speeds are also a breeze, there is no changing how you drive the car when you go CJ manifold, it should drive like stock, even when going 1-2mph over speed bumps.

Your part throttle surging is prob from torque error due to TB data or Torque/inverse tables, not necessarily a mechanical failure. The heavier you mod the car, the more you need to dial in the Torque/Inverse tables. If you don't get them to zero torque error then you will get some throttle...

Because it is a standalone system who's only job is to cool IAT's the temperature will always be relatively low compared to engine coolant. Engine coolant has to cool you engine down, since there is a thermostat it will usually always need to cool it down to 190*f, so the coolant will always be...