Search results

I've changed the TOB about 6 or 7 times already - when it was gone it would squeel if I just barely pushed the clutch in and it would be constant. This is only for a brief period of time when cold, and requires me to fully clutch in and come off the clutch and start moving (i.e., if I push the...

Agreed - your numbers are similar to what I put down on a mustang dyno after I did my mods.

When the car is cold (e.g., sat overnight) if I start it and clutch in/out everything is normal. If I put it in gear, clutch in and slowly come off, at the point where it disengages and the vehicle starts to move I hear a groaning noise, almost like a rusty door hinge opening. If I fully...

Just use the Ford OEM Gold coolant - I've been using it in my 04 cobra for almost 300k and my cooling system has been perfect (original rad, original waterpump, etc.) You do not want to go down the rabbit hole of anti-freeze research; it's absolutely miserable. Don't mix this with that or else...

I ended up getting rid of the open breathers and went back to the PCV with an inline JLT catch can (i.e., PCV valve -> catch can -> connection at back of blower). I occasionally smelled fumes in the car and when I sniffed around the windshield area could definitely pick up a smell, so fumes...

I probably should clean it out someday, but I have enough projects for this month so I settled on just fixing the current issue. I got the car back together, runs great ... I guess it was running a bit sluggish with the gigantic hole in the intake manifold and after 2-3yrs I stopped noticing...

I've held off on changing the coolant because I was always leery of Ford replacing Orange coolant with Yellow, but I think enough time has passed that if there were any problems they'd have popped up (I've seen freaky stuff when like Dodge's HOAT and OAT get mixed up and turn to gel) Are there...

I didn't clean the intercooler - I poked my head around when the front manifold block was off and it's oil caked like all of them but not the end of the world to me since I don't drive hard - I just want to get my car back together since it's my daily .... maybe down the road now that I'm...

Got the lower intake manifold/blower out of the car. It wasn't as heavy as I was expecting, just awkward lifting it out of the car by myself, but overall wasn't too bad for my first time doing it. What really caught me up was the wiring harness clipped to the lower manifold - took me forever...

While I have the manifold off I think I may as well re-o-ring the coolant pipes in the coolant supply/return manifold at the front of the intake. What do you guys torque the coolant supply/return manifold mounting bolts to? The service manual says 89 ft-lbs (which I'm pretty sure should be...

Nifty - I was reading some posts that suggested -10AN fittings can just be threaded into the rubber valve cover grommets so I guess the trick does work nicely. Although after more reading (I need to replace/delete the lower intake manifold line in my car since it's leaking) there were several...

Thanks - sounds like I'll pull it in 1 piece then ... doesn't seem as bad as I was thinking it would be. I'm sure I could benefit from an intercooler cleaning, but I don't beat on the car hard (I'm still on the original clutch, haha) so it probably isn't worth it opening up that can of worms.

Tempting ... the less parts I have to undo at almost 300k miles the better my chance of success. Are there any tricks to make manifold+blower removal easier, like attach an engine hoist to this and that point and use that to lift it up? I'm not weak by any means - I've been lifting weights...

That radium piece is an o-ring threaded ... did you just jam it into the PCV valve cover grommet? (I'm surprised that would seal.....)

Parts cannon failed - MAF sensor, O2s, evap valve, pcv o-rings on valve covers all did nothing - so I brought it to a shop. Took them 5 minutes to find with a smoke machine - it was the hose under the intake manifold - note to self, if you suspect a vacuum leak just bring it to a shop that has...

If you plug the lower intake manifold, won't oil start to pool inside it versus being drawn through pcv system? Just trying to think of any downsides, like needing to remove the lower intake manifold to clean it out periodically?

So basically it goes valve cover -> catch can -> blower if you plug up the lower intake manifold hose? Also, in this configuration shouldn't it be a solid (unvented) catch can?

I like that idea more than taking off the manifold since it's easier, haha. I had assumed that if that valve were leaking/etc. an error code would have been thrown

My handheld and SCT and HP Tuners all say no codes (and no check engine light). I would periodically get a code though when it's like -40*C outside and I lug the engine .... I think the STFT would go up for a split second to like +20 (normally around +/- 5) and since the LTFT would be sitting...

Is there any way the hose can be checked without lifting the intake?

I replaced my charcoal cannister so now i can fill my gas tank normally again. Purchased a used 03/04 MAF sensor and 2 new O2s to install. If these parts don't fix the issue (normal STFT all the time, normal LTFT when accelerating, high LTFT when idling/coasting) are there any other parts i...

Welcome to multi-piece rim ownership. They're like ITBs The happiest day in your life is when you unbox them and see them. The next happiest is when you re-box them and re-sell them, haha :/

I'm not familiar with the design of the CCWs but I've never applied sealent on that mating surface ..... you're only supposed to bolt the barrels together then seal on the outside surface. Not saying you don't with CCWs, but given OP didn't find any silicone there I don't think you need it...

I hate multi-piece wheels ... such a pain because of potential for leaks. Assuming it's sealed using silicone and not an o-ring gasket, you want to use Dow Corning 832. Split the wheel apart. Thoroughly clean the mating surface of all old silicone. Bolt the wheel back together loosely. Run...

the rattling noise is from inside the cats - whenever I remove the x-pipe and shake it around I can hear stuff rattling inside the cats ..... but it's been doing that for 100k and hasn't gotten worse so I figured just a little bit broken, not fully broken/clogged up but I am running more boost...