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I was gonna use L&M at one point but they won’t use customer supplied parts and my parts are very adequate for my build. Their shortblock price is $$$$

After some back and forth they have agreed to a return and refund. Website states a 30 day return policy as well.

He says that’s not a crack, the motor would not have ran if it was. It’s a casting line and he stands by his statement that the pistons are Mahle powerpak. Is not trying to work with me or give me any type of refund.

This is not how things were supposed to go but that’s my luck. Just wanted a motor to drop in while I built my teksid block. Trying to work out a deal with them before doing anything else.

You’re the 2nd person to ask that and I didn’t think it was but now I’m wondering

Yeah I’ve been doing a lot of research and not one forged piston has this marks. Blows my mind that someone would put cast pistons in a FI motor.

All I can see on the inside of the skirt is either INDIA or INOIA on one side and either OT or DT on the other.

This is the car it came out of. San Antonio, TX area. If you were or know the owner and can give me some info on the motor I’d definitely appreciate it!

I just bought a long block and the rotating assembly was said to be stock but after removing the oil pan it’s clearly not stock pistons. All the research I’ve done I’m leaning towards they are cast or hypereutectic and don’t want to melt or blow a ring land when I throw boost at them. Has stock...

My controller never worked right. I sold all the auto stuff a long time ago and had my t56 rebuilt. Seems like there’s a few success stories about the controller but I’d be willing to bet there’s more failures. My brother had the quick4 in his cobra and it never worked right either.

After a year and a half and no signs of the machine shop starting on my motor I went and got all my stuff. I am going to attempt my first engine build by myself. Judging by the videos I’ve watched it doesn’t look overly complicated. To get my car back on the road while I do the motor, I bought a...

Dang that’s a long time. I’m hoping I hear from them soon! Have some LS/gm people around here that need a serving of humble pie lol

I’ve always paid when the work was done.

Yeah part of me just wants to go get my stuff but the other part wants to wait cause they built a motor for me back in 2016 and it was a good running motor.

I shed a few tears for mine. The sticker on my plate is from 2020. Almost a year and a half in on waiting for my motor to be built. I’ll definitely do my own work in the future after this.

There’s one in pro series drag racing. It’s not bad for being a phone game. Even has ambers lol

Yeah just went back and looked at my old post on here and I posted the video back in 2019

I may have but I don’t remember. It’s been about 5-6 years ago since I did the auto swap and it didn’t last very long.

I did. They gave me most of my money back for the unit.

I had both gens. Even had a shop that was familiar with the quick 4 tune it. It never shifted right. Wouldn’t down shift going over an overpass, at wot it would peg 6k and not shift(have a video if you want to see). Went to the track one time, did my burnout, staged and when I went the...

Mines been off for many many years and no issues.

I started with the budget kit years ago with the old style hat. Overall not a bad setup but I recommend not using the division x regulator. Had issues with mine out of the box. Go with a fore regulator.

I was not a fan of the quick6. Ended up pulling everything out, selling it and had my t56 rebuilt and put it back in.

Pump cavitated? When I replaced my pump years ago I had to kinda shake it to get it to start moving fluid.

Everyone has their own preferences. I have some flows in my 3” bassani catback and love the sound. Get compliments all the time. Yes sir. Maybe see you at the track or something sometime If you want a stock ford cable that’s non adjustable you’ll have to buy used. They’re not in production...