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Alright, need some thinkers in here... Crank Pulley install fuggup...
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<blockquote data-quote="006" data-source="post: 9761531" data-attributes="member: 5015"><p>Prove something? :lol:</p><p></p><p>Are you high?</p><p></p><p>I've been working on cars for over 10 years. Just because you get paid to do it does NOT mean that you are better at it. I wonder how many issues come back. Perhaps I should call the dealership to find out? :shrug:</p><p></p><p>The driveshaft spacer was good advice. I will give you that. I did remove it. It was not needed on my setup. I do certainly credit your advice making me realize that I did not need it. That however was not the reason for the driveshaft hitting the tunnel. It's a common problem on lowered 94-98 SN95's that are running an aluminum (larger diameter) driveshaft. Ford eliminated that problem on the 99+ models by increasing the height of the tunnel. </p><p></p><p>BAM! Taught you something new! </p><p></p><p>In regards to the U-joints, I did install new U-joints a few months before I brought the car to you, you claimed they were bad while you impact wrenched my car, and when I removed them a few months later, they were still in good shape, all the pin bearings were intact and present, the joints had not damage whatsoever. Since I had bought another set anyways, I figured why not replace them since the driveshaft was out...and I did. </p><p></p><p>..and that was when I noticed that the IMPACT GUN work you had performed on the pinion was shoddy. The nut was hand loose. No, the flange did not fall out for me to notice. Perhaps the people whom you've done this for should immdiately go check up on their flange to see how much of a fugg-up you caused them.</p><p></p><p>BTW, you wanna know the torque spec?</p><p></p><p>It is 140 lbs/ft if you really need to know that badly.</p><p></p><p>Now, in regards to the shoddy pulley job.</p><p></p><p>The noise WAS present ever since you installed the pulley. When I got on the freeway when leaving your shop I immediately heard it. There IS PROOF! You asked for proof, and there it is. Happy now? Yes, you fugged up the install and the result was immediate.</p><p></p><p>My clutch disc blowout had nothing to do with the noise. It was present since day one of your "work". Perhaps I should blame my premature clutch blowout on you? Should I have you cough up the funds? :lol:</p><p></p><p>BTW, the crank/damper pulley specs are as follows by this Ford SPECIAL SERVICE MESSAGE:</p><p></p><p>SSM 14520 4.6L 4V PULLEY INSTRUCTIONS </p><p></p><p>SOME 1996-2001 MUSTANG OWNERS, FOR ENGINE PERFORMANCE PURPOSES, ARE ADDING A SPECIAL FRONT DRIVE PULLEY KIT TO REDUCE FRONT ACCESSORY DRIVE SPEEDS. WHEN REMOVING AND REPLACING THE CRANK PULLEY, IF THE LARGE BOLT USED TO HOLD THE CRANK PULLEY IS UNDERTORQUED, THE KEYWAY WILL SHEAR AND CAUSE MAJOR ENGINE DAMAGE. THE RESULTING ENGINE DAMAGE IS NOT WARRANTABLE. IF THE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY BOLT IS REMOVED IT SHOULD BE REPLACED AS IT IS A TORQUE TO YIELD BOLT. THE INSTALLATION OF THE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY REQUIRES THAT A SPECIFIC TORQUE OPERATION BE ADHERED TO. THE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY BOLT MUST BE INSTALLED USING THESE 4 STEPS: 1)TORQUE TO 75LB/FT 2)BACK OUT ONE TURN 3)TORQUE TO 45LB/FT 4)CONTINUE TO TIGHTEN AN ADDITIONAL 90 DEGREES.</p><p>EFFECTIVE DATE: 12/13/2000</p><p></p><p>Sadly, I do not think you've ever read it or even know about it.</p><p></p><p>Perhaps this thread will help you think and use your cranium in the future to do things the proper way without screwing around with someone else's motor that is worth thousands of dollars.</p><p></p><p>What if you blew someone's motor with your shoddy work and they decided to file a lawsuit against you and the dealership where you do these "side-jobs"?</p><p></p><p>I doubt that would be very nice for you now would it?</p><p></p><p>hmm..... :idea:</p><p></p><p>You're disputing the crank noise?</p><p></p><p>You are obviously under-educated my friend.</p><p></p><p>I highly suggest reading up on harmonic vibration frequency and rpms associated with them.</p><p></p><p>Here is something for you to read if you are unaware that harmonic vibration does not occur at all rpms:</p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.fluidampr.com/IMAGES/Fluidamper%20Critical%20Speeds.pdf" target="_blank">http://www.fluidampr.com/IMAGES/Fluidamper Critical Speeds.pdf</a></p><p></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px">"An "order" is a single frequency, and there are many "orders"</span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px">of harmonic vibrations occurring simultaneously in</span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px">the crankshaft as the engine runs. An 8-cylinder engine, with</span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px">each cylinder firing every 720 degrees, produces a ½-order,</span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px">1st order, 1-½-order, 2nd-order and so on. Two or more of</span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px">these vibration frequencies can combine at a specific engine</span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px">"Critical Speed" rpm to produce what is known as resonance.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px">This resonance can destroy a crankshaft unless the harmon-</span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px">Critical Speeds & Harmonic Damping</span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px">ics are damped or the engine rpm is moved out of phase"</span></p><p></p><p>Now Brian, I have proved you wrong over and over again, and I do not have a fancy Ford certified badge pinned on my shirt, but if your 1-2 week or God-knows how short your training was that earned you that badge, I highly suggest trying to educate yourself beyond what you learned over there since there's lots more to learn, and it also takes common sense, decency and merit in order to live up to that badge that you wear.</p><p></p><p>Learn from this experience.</p><p></p><p>If you cannot take some constructive criticism, then you're way too absorbed in yourself. </p><p></p><p>:rockon:</p><p></p><p>Ken</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="006, post: 9761531, member: 5015"] Prove something? :lol: Are you high? I've been working on cars for over 10 years. Just because you get paid to do it does NOT mean that you are better at it. I wonder how many issues come back. Perhaps I should call the dealership to find out? :shrug: The driveshaft spacer was good advice. I will give you that. I did remove it. It was not needed on my setup. I do certainly credit your advice making me realize that I did not need it. That however was not the reason for the driveshaft hitting the tunnel. It's a common problem on lowered 94-98 SN95's that are running an aluminum (larger diameter) driveshaft. Ford eliminated that problem on the 99+ models by increasing the height of the tunnel. BAM! Taught you something new! In regards to the U-joints, I did install new U-joints a few months before I brought the car to you, you claimed they were bad while you impact wrenched my car, and when I removed them a few months later, they were still in good shape, all the pin bearings were intact and present, the joints had not damage whatsoever. Since I had bought another set anyways, I figured why not replace them since the driveshaft was out...and I did. ..and that was when I noticed that the IMPACT GUN work you had performed on the pinion was shoddy. The nut was hand loose. No, the flange did not fall out for me to notice. Perhaps the people whom you've done this for should immdiately go check up on their flange to see how much of a fugg-up you caused them. BTW, you wanna know the torque spec? It is 140 lbs/ft if you really need to know that badly. Now, in regards to the shoddy pulley job. The noise WAS present ever since you installed the pulley. When I got on the freeway when leaving your shop I immediately heard it. There IS PROOF! You asked for proof, and there it is. Happy now? Yes, you fugged up the install and the result was immediate. My clutch disc blowout had nothing to do with the noise. It was present since day one of your "work". Perhaps I should blame my premature clutch blowout on you? Should I have you cough up the funds? :lol: BTW, the crank/damper pulley specs are as follows by this Ford SPECIAL SERVICE MESSAGE: SSM 14520 4.6L 4V PULLEY INSTRUCTIONS SOME 1996-2001 MUSTANG OWNERS, FOR ENGINE PERFORMANCE PURPOSES, ARE ADDING A SPECIAL FRONT DRIVE PULLEY KIT TO REDUCE FRONT ACCESSORY DRIVE SPEEDS. WHEN REMOVING AND REPLACING THE CRANK PULLEY, IF THE LARGE BOLT USED TO HOLD THE CRANK PULLEY IS UNDERTORQUED, THE KEYWAY WILL SHEAR AND CAUSE MAJOR ENGINE DAMAGE. THE RESULTING ENGINE DAMAGE IS NOT WARRANTABLE. IF THE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY BOLT IS REMOVED IT SHOULD BE REPLACED AS IT IS A TORQUE TO YIELD BOLT. THE INSTALLATION OF THE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY REQUIRES THAT A SPECIFIC TORQUE OPERATION BE ADHERED TO. THE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY BOLT MUST BE INSTALLED USING THESE 4 STEPS: 1)TORQUE TO 75LB/FT 2)BACK OUT ONE TURN 3)TORQUE TO 45LB/FT 4)CONTINUE TO TIGHTEN AN ADDITIONAL 90 DEGREES. EFFECTIVE DATE: 12/13/2000 Sadly, I do not think you've ever read it or even know about it. Perhaps this thread will help you think and use your cranium in the future to do things the proper way without screwing around with someone else's motor that is worth thousands of dollars. What if you blew someone's motor with your shoddy work and they decided to file a lawsuit against you and the dealership where you do these "side-jobs"? I doubt that would be very nice for you now would it? hmm..... :idea: You're disputing the crank noise? You are obviously under-educated my friend. I highly suggest reading up on harmonic vibration frequency and rpms associated with them. Here is something for you to read if you are unaware that harmonic vibration does not occur at all rpms: [url]http://www.fluidampr.com/IMAGES/Fluidamper%20Critical%20Speeds.pdf[/url] [SIZE="1"]"An "order" is a single frequency, and there are many "orders" of harmonic vibrations occurring simultaneously in the crankshaft as the engine runs. An 8-cylinder engine, with each cylinder firing every 720 degrees, produces a ½-order, 1st order, 1-½-order, 2nd-order and so on. Two or more of these vibration frequencies can combine at a specific engine "Critical Speed" rpm to produce what is known as resonance. This resonance can destroy a crankshaft unless the harmon- Critical Speeds & Harmonic Damping ics are damped or the engine rpm is moved out of phase"[/SIZE] Now Brian, I have proved you wrong over and over again, and I do not have a fancy Ford certified badge pinned on my shirt, but if your 1-2 week or God-knows how short your training was that earned you that badge, I highly suggest trying to educate yourself beyond what you learned over there since there's lots more to learn, and it also takes common sense, decency and merit in order to live up to that badge that you wear. Learn from this experience. If you cannot take some constructive criticism, then you're way too absorbed in yourself. :rockon: Ken [/QUOTE]
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Alright, need some thinkers in here... Crank Pulley install fuggup...
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