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SVT Shelby GT500
FRPP/Whipple kit content and install on '09 GT500
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<blockquote data-quote="Tob" data-source="post: 10007010" data-attributes="member: 83412"><p>I then moved onto removing the fuel rail and injectors. Four bolts, release the fuel line to rail connection, and lift.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102169[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Err...</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102170[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102171[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>This is where I was...</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102172[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>The blower is ready to be removed. Don't forget (like I did) that there are 10 bolts and not 8.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102173[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Minimal oil intrusion at this point as well.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102174[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>I figured now was a good time to switch EGR tubes, just in case I couldn't get the new one in with the new blower in place. While they look very similar, there are some minor bend differences between the two.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102175[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>This is where the fun starts. Note the vertical clearance to the rear most blower bolt holes on the stocker - there's plenty. Also note the 90* downward elbow fitting, as well as the stock bypass actuator. Store the mental images.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102176[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102177[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Hope there's room...</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102178[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Oh, one more of inside the stock blower case...</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102179[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Uh oh. Where did all that clearance go?</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102180[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>I couldn't bare to look any longer so I moved onto extending the existing 3/8" hose with the supplied assembly.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102181[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>This slowed me down a bit. Whipple's instructions don't give you an illustration as to how to orient the fittings. I went in the house and looked at how Chris had done it. I matched what I saw in a photo he posted in his install write up. This is important, as the hose extension I just added needs to fit properly onto the barbed elbow as you are installing the blower. I don't have three hands, so orientation is critical.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102182[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p><strong>THE BITCH</strong></p><p></p><p>This was where the fun started. After laying a continuous bead of RTV around the perimeter of the factory intake O-ring. I placed a block of wood to support the assembly until I was ready to lower (and slide back) the monster.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102183[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>I slipped on the 3/8" hose - note clamp orientation. If it faces the rear it will gouge into a portion of the firewall, so keep it up, which also eases squeezing/releasing it.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102184[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>This is the point in the install where I shook my head. First - get another set of hands. If your first shot is successful, then fine. Mine wasn't. I couldn't get the blower to go back far enough to get any of the bolts in. After a few minutes of investigating, I realized the blower was being restricted from rearward movement by a large wiring harness, which was held firmly into place by a metal bracket with two holes. For now, I removed it (note the two holes in the manifold, then the bracket).</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102185[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102186[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>But wait, there's more. Once I relieved the harness, I found there was another obstruction. The plastic body of the bypass actuator was up against the firewall, and I needed to go back another 1/4" <em>plus</em> a reasonable amount of additional clearance for engine movement. The following shot is with the blower laid down (don't ask me how many times I had to clean up and redo the RTV) and moved forward.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102187[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>I marked the area. Since I couldn't mark the area directly (due to there being no room) I made a quick reference mark (yellow mark on the left). I then measured with a stick rule to the point of interference. I then placed a mark there as well (yellow mark to the right). There is three inches between the two marks.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102188[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Since there was no way I was going to get into mving anything at either the K-member or the mounts, I was left with only one choice. Cringe if you must.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102189[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102190[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Some medicine helped to ease the pain. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /></p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102191[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>The wood block didn't gouge or scratch, it just lightly scuffed, if you will.</p><p></p><p>Finally.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102192[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102193[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Now back to the difficult part of the install. Remember that bolt hole access that just about vanished at the driver side rear? Unless you are the guy with the gooey stretchable hands from The Fantastic Four, it ain't happenin'. I tried everything, including the "lay on top of the engine and..." method that somehow worked for Chris. You simply can't get your hand close enough to even touch the bolt with the tip of <em>any</em> finger. A quick study after Houdini failed to return my call, and I whipped up something quick. A few tacks on a piece of steel strapping on the end of a wrench.</p><p></p><p>It worked for a few turns, but I needed to tweak the wrench end for more clearance. I placed it in a vice, applied pressure, and...</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102194[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>My bad. Not a good idea to try to bend it after it had cooled down. Tools just don't like heat cycles. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite2" alt=";)" title="Wink ;)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=";)" /></p><p></p><p>Thinking quick, as I had just put the welder away - I grabbed a piece of conduit and the previously used BFH (the tape was for sharp edges so as not to cut anything). The wrench is inside the conduit, placed at the right angle for tightening, and beaten in tight. A few strategic bends later...</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102195[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102196[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102197[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102198[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Seriously, for the coin, it'd be nice if FRPP could step up to the plate and include some sort of tool.</p><p></p><p>More later, after some more work today.</p><p></p><p>Tob</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Tob, post: 10007010, member: 83412"] I then moved onto removing the fuel rail and injectors. Four bolts, release the fuel line to rail connection, and lift. [ATTACH=full]102169[/ATTACH] Err... [ATTACH=full]102170[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]102171[/ATTACH] This is where I was... [ATTACH=full]102172[/ATTACH] The blower is ready to be removed. Don't forget (like I did) that there are 10 bolts and not 8. [ATTACH=full]102173[/ATTACH] Minimal oil intrusion at this point as well. [ATTACH=full]102174[/ATTACH] I figured now was a good time to switch EGR tubes, just in case I couldn't get the new one in with the new blower in place. While they look very similar, there are some minor bend differences between the two. [ATTACH=full]102175[/ATTACH] This is where the fun starts. Note the vertical clearance to the rear most blower bolt holes on the stocker - there's plenty. Also note the 90* downward elbow fitting, as well as the stock bypass actuator. Store the mental images. [ATTACH=full]102176[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]102177[/ATTACH] Hope there's room... [ATTACH=full]102178[/ATTACH] Oh, one more of inside the stock blower case... [ATTACH=full]102179[/ATTACH] Uh oh. Where did all that clearance go? [ATTACH=full]102180[/ATTACH] I couldn't bare to look any longer so I moved onto extending the existing 3/8" hose with the supplied assembly. [ATTACH=full]102181[/ATTACH] This slowed me down a bit. Whipple's instructions don't give you an illustration as to how to orient the fittings. I went in the house and looked at how Chris had done it. I matched what I saw in a photo he posted in his install write up. This is important, as the hose extension I just added needs to fit properly onto the barbed elbow as you are installing the blower. I don't have three hands, so orientation is critical. [ATTACH=full]102182[/ATTACH] [b]THE BITCH[/b] This was where the fun started. After laying a continuous bead of RTV around the perimeter of the factory intake O-ring. I placed a block of wood to support the assembly until I was ready to lower (and slide back) the monster. [ATTACH=full]102183[/ATTACH] I slipped on the 3/8" hose - note clamp orientation. If it faces the rear it will gouge into a portion of the firewall, so keep it up, which also eases squeezing/releasing it. [ATTACH=full]102184[/ATTACH] This is the point in the install where I shook my head. First - get another set of hands. If your first shot is successful, then fine. Mine wasn't. I couldn't get the blower to go back far enough to get any of the bolts in. After a few minutes of investigating, I realized the blower was being restricted from rearward movement by a large wiring harness, which was held firmly into place by a metal bracket with two holes. For now, I removed it (note the two holes in the manifold, then the bracket). [ATTACH=full]102185[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]102186[/ATTACH] But wait, there's more. Once I relieved the harness, I found there was another obstruction. The plastic body of the bypass actuator was up against the firewall, and I needed to go back another 1/4" [i]plus[/i] a reasonable amount of additional clearance for engine movement. The following shot is with the blower laid down (don't ask me how many times I had to clean up and redo the RTV) and moved forward. [ATTACH=full]102187[/ATTACH] I marked the area. Since I couldn't mark the area directly (due to there being no room) I made a quick reference mark (yellow mark on the left). I then measured with a stick rule to the point of interference. I then placed a mark there as well (yellow mark to the right). There is three inches between the two marks. [ATTACH=full]102188[/ATTACH] Since there was no way I was going to get into mving anything at either the K-member or the mounts, I was left with only one choice. Cringe if you must. [ATTACH=full]102189[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]102190[/ATTACH] Some medicine helped to ease the pain. :) [ATTACH=full]102191[/ATTACH] The wood block didn't gouge or scratch, it just lightly scuffed, if you will. Finally. [ATTACH=full]102192[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]102193[/ATTACH] Now back to the difficult part of the install. Remember that bolt hole access that just about vanished at the driver side rear? Unless you are the guy with the gooey stretchable hands from The Fantastic Four, it ain't happenin'. I tried everything, including the "lay on top of the engine and..." method that somehow worked for Chris. You simply can't get your hand close enough to even touch the bolt with the tip of [i]any[/i] finger. A quick study after Houdini failed to return my call, and I whipped up something quick. A few tacks on a piece of steel strapping on the end of a wrench. It worked for a few turns, but I needed to tweak the wrench end for more clearance. I placed it in a vice, applied pressure, and... [ATTACH=full]102194[/ATTACH] My bad. Not a good idea to try to bend it after it had cooled down. Tools just don't like heat cycles. ;) Thinking quick, as I had just put the welder away - I grabbed a piece of conduit and the previously used BFH (the tape was for sharp edges so as not to cut anything). The wrench is inside the conduit, placed at the right angle for tightening, and beaten in tight. A few strategic bends later... [ATTACH=full]102195[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]102196[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]102197[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]102198[/ATTACH] Seriously, for the coin, it'd be nice if FRPP could step up to the plate and include some sort of tool. More later, after some more work today. Tob [/QUOTE]
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FRPP/Whipple kit content and install on '09 GT500
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