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SVT Shelby GT500
FRPP/Whipple kit content and install on '09 GT500
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<blockquote data-quote="Tob" data-source="post: 10008660" data-attributes="member: 83412"><p>Since you brought it up, I'll start there.:banana:</p><p></p><p>Whipple supplies you with a bolt to use under the inlet and at the rear of the fuel rail on the driver side. It is the zinc coated one on the right.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102661[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>It is too long. I ended up cutting a second time because it still wouldn't clear the inlet and thread into the fuel rail boss. The magic number was 7/16" of thread under the bolt head.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102662[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Pain enough trying to seat the rear most injector, let alone deal with the bolt. Tip - you don't have to remove the safety clip from the injector as the directions state. I tried it both ways (since I'm such a glutton I figured why not?). You can see both in the following photo. The bolt has been fit, is at the bare minimum length and is ready for David Copperfield to show up and get the threads started.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102663[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102664[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Passenger side rail went on without a hitch.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102665[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Back to my other favorite place. You can see why Whipple utilized button head fasteners for the bypass actuator bracket. The harness that I released previously would be squished if regular bolts were used. The contour my finger is holding the harness over to is what I was looking for. The idea is to keep it away from the EGR tube.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102666[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>I wanted to use the original bracket, but at the current length it was yet again trying to force it into the bypass hardware. I compromised and settled on a shortened bracket that would redirect the harness away from the EGR tube but still allow it to be directed away from blower interference.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102667[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>One bolt did the trick. Two would have made things tight again.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102668[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>I used red RTV on the EGR adapter (EGR to blower case side) due to its higher heat capacity (if that makes any difference).</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102669[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102670[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>I reused the steel gasket between the EGR valve itself and the adapter.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102671[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>It is a little tricky joining the EGR tube at the manifold, at the EGR valve itself, and being able to thread the included fasteners to draw the EGR valve in tight. Once the valve was tight, I tightened the tube up at either end (12"crescent still worked without issue).</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102672[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>I actually had to back and loosen the passenger side fuel rail bolts so that the rail no longer made contact with the rail. Were I to do it again, I would have dressed up the bottom of the valve casting with a die grinder to minimize thermal transfer of heat to the rail from the EGR valve.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102673[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>As to the rest of the connections at the back, you have to "borrow" the original blower's pieces in order for the EGR valve to work. Whipple changes some of this with their unit. First is to pull off the what you see disconnected below. The line running to the original bypass actuator gets plugged with a small plastic piece that Whipple supplies.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102674[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>I inserted the plug as directed but also put a dab of RTV inside to ensure a good seal.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102675[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>You also add the threaded fittings to the machined aluminum adapter at this time.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102676[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>You can also attach the requisite connectors to the back of the inlet at this time as well. I'm not big on the necessary bend to the hose coming from the brake booster. I may shorten it for a more natural radius. Also, note the sheet metal above the top hose on the left. I had to disconnect a wiring harness and then bend the sheet metal back with my hand to allow clearance.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102677[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102678[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>I moved onto slipping the blower belt, using the method that Chris mentioned in his write up. It worked perfectly. The blower lube then went in. Note the sight glass.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102679[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Since I'm still waiting for a response to my "what is the proper gap for the included spark plugs?" question, I couldn't finish that or the intake tract. I did want to see how the included air cleaner assembly would fit.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102680[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>While the holes in the '09 body do line up with the locating rubber bungs on the underside of the housing, it seems an odd fit.</p><p></p><p>I can forget any visions I had of trying to adapt the hole on the side to the newer ducting. That'd be a road to nowhere as there simply isn't any room. I need the plug that Whipple shows in the directions but that I didn't get.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102681[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Brief interlude...and a comparison of the FRPP CAI and the Whipple/SVT hybrid.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102682[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102683[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102684[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Mocked into place, I'm hoping there will be more clearance than what I see now...</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102685[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>So, I'm awaiting the Procal tuner and tune. I still need to change the fuel pump. It would be nice if that is a simple switch (for once!:-D) New plugs, intake tract....then I'll turn the key.</p><p></p><p>This is where I am as of now.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102686[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102687[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]102688[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Believe it or not, I'm rather enjoying this. I hope it helps anyone be better prepared for their own install.</p><p></p><p>Tob</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Tob, post: 10008660, member: 83412"] Since you brought it up, I'll start there.:banana: Whipple supplies you with a bolt to use under the inlet and at the rear of the fuel rail on the driver side. It is the zinc coated one on the right. [ATTACH=full]102661[/ATTACH] It is too long. I ended up cutting a second time because it still wouldn't clear the inlet and thread into the fuel rail boss. The magic number was 7/16" of thread under the bolt head. [ATTACH=full]102662[/ATTACH] Pain enough trying to seat the rear most injector, let alone deal with the bolt. Tip - you don't have to remove the safety clip from the injector as the directions state. I tried it both ways (since I'm such a glutton I figured why not?). You can see both in the following photo. The bolt has been fit, is at the bare minimum length and is ready for David Copperfield to show up and get the threads started. [ATTACH=full]102663[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]102664[/ATTACH] Passenger side rail went on without a hitch. [ATTACH=full]102665[/ATTACH] Back to my other favorite place. You can see why Whipple utilized button head fasteners for the bypass actuator bracket. The harness that I released previously would be squished if regular bolts were used. The contour my finger is holding the harness over to is what I was looking for. The idea is to keep it away from the EGR tube. [ATTACH=full]102666[/ATTACH] I wanted to use the original bracket, but at the current length it was yet again trying to force it into the bypass hardware. I compromised and settled on a shortened bracket that would redirect the harness away from the EGR tube but still allow it to be directed away from blower interference. [ATTACH=full]102667[/ATTACH] One bolt did the trick. Two would have made things tight again. [ATTACH=full]102668[/ATTACH] I used red RTV on the EGR adapter (EGR to blower case side) due to its higher heat capacity (if that makes any difference). [ATTACH=full]102669[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]102670[/ATTACH] I reused the steel gasket between the EGR valve itself and the adapter. [ATTACH=full]102671[/ATTACH] It is a little tricky joining the EGR tube at the manifold, at the EGR valve itself, and being able to thread the included fasteners to draw the EGR valve in tight. Once the valve was tight, I tightened the tube up at either end (12"crescent still worked without issue). [ATTACH=full]102672[/ATTACH] I actually had to back and loosen the passenger side fuel rail bolts so that the rail no longer made contact with the rail. Were I to do it again, I would have dressed up the bottom of the valve casting with a die grinder to minimize thermal transfer of heat to the rail from the EGR valve. [ATTACH=full]102673[/ATTACH] As to the rest of the connections at the back, you have to "borrow" the original blower's pieces in order for the EGR valve to work. Whipple changes some of this with their unit. First is to pull off the what you see disconnected below. The line running to the original bypass actuator gets plugged with a small plastic piece that Whipple supplies. [ATTACH=full]102674[/ATTACH] I inserted the plug as directed but also put a dab of RTV inside to ensure a good seal. [ATTACH=full]102675[/ATTACH] You also add the threaded fittings to the machined aluminum adapter at this time. [ATTACH=full]102676[/ATTACH] You can also attach the requisite connectors to the back of the inlet at this time as well. I'm not big on the necessary bend to the hose coming from the brake booster. I may shorten it for a more natural radius. Also, note the sheet metal above the top hose on the left. I had to disconnect a wiring harness and then bend the sheet metal back with my hand to allow clearance. [ATTACH=full]102677[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]102678[/ATTACH] I moved onto slipping the blower belt, using the method that Chris mentioned in his write up. It worked perfectly. The blower lube then went in. Note the sight glass. [ATTACH=full]102679[/ATTACH] Since I'm still waiting for a response to my "what is the proper gap for the included spark plugs?" question, I couldn't finish that or the intake tract. I did want to see how the included air cleaner assembly would fit. [ATTACH=full]102680[/ATTACH] While the holes in the '09 body do line up with the locating rubber bungs on the underside of the housing, it seems an odd fit. I can forget any visions I had of trying to adapt the hole on the side to the newer ducting. That'd be a road to nowhere as there simply isn't any room. I need the plug that Whipple shows in the directions but that I didn't get. [ATTACH=full]102681[/ATTACH] Brief interlude...and a comparison of the FRPP CAI and the Whipple/SVT hybrid. [ATTACH=full]102682[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]102683[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]102684[/ATTACH] Mocked into place, I'm hoping there will be more clearance than what I see now... [ATTACH=full]102685[/ATTACH] So, I'm awaiting the Procal tuner and tune. I still need to change the fuel pump. It would be nice if that is a simple switch (for once!:-D) New plugs, intake tract....then I'll turn the key. This is where I am as of now. [ATTACH=full]102686[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]102687[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]102688[/ATTACH] Believe it or not, I'm rather enjoying this. I hope it helps anyone be better prepared for their own install. Tob [/QUOTE]
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FRPP/Whipple kit content and install on '09 GT500
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