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SVT Shelby GT500
FRPP/Whipple kit content and install on '09 GT500
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<blockquote data-quote="Tob" data-source="post: 10011667" data-attributes="member: 83412"><p>I look at it this way.</p><p></p><p>The blower knows not what car it will ultimately reside in, an '07-'09, '10, or a '11 model. Each has its own set of requirements. The hardware itself is absolutely first rate, and I truly mean that. Threads are perfectly cut, surface finish is without blemish, the machine work all runs true, supporting pieces are all there (my CAI block off is in the mail!), FRPP developed a perfectly safe and matching tune, and the kit has been thoroughly tested and given FRPP's stamp of approval.</p><p></p><p>As far as minor fitment "issues" consider the number of systems that are being modified - air, fuel, spark, with not only hardware but software as well. If you want to up the power level you need to be able to move some serious air, which ironically necessitates the biggest impediment. So it is not unexpected. For me, shortening a bolt is minor. The block of wood was my choice - I wasn't comfortable with the clearance (or lack thereof) that I saw but that isn't to say that others don't have the issue. Trust me, the big players in this install went on and fit like the pieces that were removed. There hasn't been anything that Whipple supplied that made me wince or cringe and I'm extremely anal about mods. Just because a part received approval from FRPP doesn't mean I'm OK with it.</p><p></p><p>But in this case I absolutely give it a thumbs up.:thumbsup:</p><p></p><p>On edit...</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>The clearance method was my choice and I'm sure there are other, more refined methods. After reading your question a few minutes ago, I revisited a portion of the directions I skipped over because it has bold type that mentions <strong>2011 models only</strong>. I honestly never read the notes until just now. Crazy, but my 2009 is very 2011 like.<img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /></p><p></p><p>Here are the notes...</p><p></p><p>34. (<strong>2011 models only</strong>) <em>In some applications, the bypass actuator may need to be adjusted, to adjust loosen the 2 button head allen bolts and move away from firewall. Actuator needs a light amount of preload into the actuator. Re-tighten button head allen bolts and torque to 20 ft/lbs.</em></p><p></p><p>35. (<strong>2011 models only</strong>) <em>In some applications, the SC system will hit the firewall. In this case, you will need to slide the engine forward. Loosen all bolts for the front suspension K-member and transmission. Slide forward, and check the SC clearance. Once install is done the vehicle needs to be aligned.</em></p><p></p><p>36. (<strong>2011 models only</strong>) <em>Remove steel harness protector at the rear since it will not clear the motor. Locate the EGR wiring harness, pull from the plastic loom so the wires have more access to the new location of the EGR valve.</em></p><p></p><p>I can't help it if my car mimics a '11.<img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /> I wish I would have read the notes for years that don't pertain to mine as they definitely offer quite a bit of insight. It also tells me that Whipple has done the development work on Ford's latest.</p><p></p><p>On 2nd edit...I went out and looked at the bypass. Referencing this photo from page 1 of this write up, look closely at the bypass bracket and the requisite slots at both the bottom and top button head allen bolts.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]103051[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>While the top is in most all the way, there is still a little room to swing the bottom in, which may have provided "enough" clearance. It would have swung the plastic body downward a bit and <em>may have</em> offered a better fit. But Whipple does mention keeping a light amount of preload in the valve, so I'm unsure as to how far you could move it. That said, I'm still fine with two blows to the firewall and a lipstick touchup. I prefer <em>too much</em> room. But this definitely sheds light on the fact that there is some adjustment there.</p><p></p><p>Tob</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Tob, post: 10011667, member: 83412"] I look at it this way. The blower knows not what car it will ultimately reside in, an '07-'09, '10, or a '11 model. Each has its own set of requirements. The hardware itself is absolutely first rate, and I truly mean that. Threads are perfectly cut, surface finish is without blemish, the machine work all runs true, supporting pieces are all there (my CAI block off is in the mail!), FRPP developed a perfectly safe and matching tune, and the kit has been thoroughly tested and given FRPP's stamp of approval. As far as minor fitment "issues" consider the number of systems that are being modified - air, fuel, spark, with not only hardware but software as well. If you want to up the power level you need to be able to move some serious air, which ironically necessitates the biggest impediment. So it is not unexpected. For me, shortening a bolt is minor. The block of wood was my choice - I wasn't comfortable with the clearance (or lack thereof) that I saw but that isn't to say that others don't have the issue. Trust me, the big players in this install went on and fit like the pieces that were removed. There hasn't been anything that Whipple supplied that made me wince or cringe and I'm extremely anal about mods. Just because a part received approval from FRPP doesn't mean I'm OK with it. But in this case I absolutely give it a thumbs up.:thumbsup: On edit... The clearance method was my choice and I'm sure there are other, more refined methods. After reading your question a few minutes ago, I revisited a portion of the directions I skipped over because it has bold type that mentions [b]2011 models only[/b]. I honestly never read the notes until just now. Crazy, but my 2009 is very 2011 like.:) Here are the notes... 34. ([b]2011 models only[/b]) [i]In some applications, the bypass actuator may need to be adjusted, to adjust loosen the 2 button head allen bolts and move away from firewall. Actuator needs a light amount of preload into the actuator. Re-tighten button head allen bolts and torque to 20 ft/lbs.[/i] 35. ([b]2011 models only[/b]) [i]In some applications, the SC system will hit the firewall. In this case, you will need to slide the engine forward. Loosen all bolts for the front suspension K-member and transmission. Slide forward, and check the SC clearance. Once install is done the vehicle needs to be aligned.[/i] 36. ([b]2011 models only[/b]) [i]Remove steel harness protector at the rear since it will not clear the motor. Locate the EGR wiring harness, pull from the plastic loom so the wires have more access to the new location of the EGR valve.[/i] I can't help it if my car mimics a '11.:) I wish I would have read the notes for years that don't pertain to mine as they definitely offer quite a bit of insight. It also tells me that Whipple has done the development work on Ford's latest. On 2nd edit...I went out and looked at the bypass. Referencing this photo from page 1 of this write up, look closely at the bypass bracket and the requisite slots at both the bottom and top button head allen bolts. [ATTACH=full]103051[/ATTACH] While the top is in most all the way, there is still a little room to swing the bottom in, which may have provided "enough" clearance. It would have swung the plastic body downward a bit and [I]may have[/I] offered a better fit. But Whipple does mention keeping a light amount of preload in the valve, so I'm unsure as to how far you could move it. That said, I'm still fine with two blows to the firewall and a lipstick touchup. I prefer [i]too much[/i] room. But this definitely sheds light on the fact that there is some adjustment there. Tob [/QUOTE]
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FRPP/Whipple kit content and install on '09 GT500
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