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Open Track Racing
Griggs World Challenge Frame Kit
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<blockquote data-quote="cobraracer46" data-source="post: 9332616" data-attributes="member: 13924"><p>my response from a frame connector thread in the terminator forums:</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>No, The Hans subframe connectors are NOT the best. Why? The "ladder bar" set up only adds unnecessary weight. How can I prove this point? Imagine a floor of a house or the frame work under a bridge. You can run a million 2X4's on a floor and it would never be very stiff. This 2X4 approach is the reason why the Hans ladder bar system does not work. Now next time you go under a bridge, take a look at the supporting frame work under the roadway and you will see some very deep girders. Getting back to the floor of a house example, build a floor with a few 2X12's and you will have a far stiffer floor than if you had a ton of 2X4's because the 2X12's have a deep vertical span that resists bending. </p><p></p><p>Maximum motorsports and Griggs do not make "ladder bar" style subframes because they know such a system only adds weight with no real increase in stiffness.</p><p></p><p>On a side note, the Kenny Brown subframe connectors are some of the worst mustang chassis stiffeners you can buy so avoid them.:dw:</p><p></p><p>As for the best subframe connector set up on the market, Griggs gets my vote. I have welded in a set of Maximum Motorsports subframes and I recommend them, plus they will work with the griggs upper set as well. If you buy a complete Griggs frame kit, you get lower, upper subframes and all of the bulkhead stiffening plates in one shot.</p><p></p><p>Here I am installing and welding in a "Griggs frame kit" in my 2001 Cobra convertible. Griggs is the best because a standard lower subframe connector(my cobra already had a set of Global West lower subframes without the ladder crap) is welded in the middle to a set of upper frame rails complete with bulkhead stiffeners. This system is more like having a set of 4X12's instead of a bunch of 2x4's and adds a ton of stiffness.</p><p><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2506/3939478091_40eb1bf7fd_b.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3524/3940256880_05db19ac38_b.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Bulkhead plates welded in to the B pillar and rear seat area.</p><p></p><p><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2782/4300916934_7178890b4e_b.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p>Completed install, only the rear portion of the upper rail of the Griggs frame kit is visible from inside the car. </p><p><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4070/4300170071_41ea672351_b.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>By the way, I cut and welded on the factory power seat bracket to make it work with the griggs frame kit.</p><p></p><p>Yes, the Griggs frame kit is overkill and overkill is what the SN95 mustang chassis needs for real improvments in chassis stiffness, especially the convertibles.</p><p></p><p>I say do it and dont look back.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="cobraracer46, post: 9332616, member: 13924"] my response from a frame connector thread in the terminator forums: No, The Hans subframe connectors are NOT the best. Why? The "ladder bar" set up only adds unnecessary weight. How can I prove this point? Imagine a floor of a house or the frame work under a bridge. You can run a million 2X4's on a floor and it would never be very stiff. This 2X4 approach is the reason why the Hans ladder bar system does not work. Now next time you go under a bridge, take a look at the supporting frame work under the roadway and you will see some very deep girders. Getting back to the floor of a house example, build a floor with a few 2X12's and you will have a far stiffer floor than if you had a ton of 2X4's because the 2X12's have a deep vertical span that resists bending. Maximum motorsports and Griggs do not make "ladder bar" style subframes because they know such a system only adds weight with no real increase in stiffness. On a side note, the Kenny Brown subframe connectors are some of the worst mustang chassis stiffeners you can buy so avoid them.:dw: As for the best subframe connector set up on the market, Griggs gets my vote. I have welded in a set of Maximum Motorsports subframes and I recommend them, plus they will work with the griggs upper set as well. If you buy a complete Griggs frame kit, you get lower, upper subframes and all of the bulkhead stiffening plates in one shot. Here I am installing and welding in a "Griggs frame kit" in my 2001 Cobra convertible. Griggs is the best because a standard lower subframe connector(my cobra already had a set of Global West lower subframes without the ladder crap) is welded in the middle to a set of upper frame rails complete with bulkhead stiffeners. This system is more like having a set of 4X12's instead of a bunch of 2x4's and adds a ton of stiffness. [IMG]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2506/3939478091_40eb1bf7fd_b.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3524/3940256880_05db19ac38_b.jpg[/IMG] Bulkhead plates welded in to the B pillar and rear seat area. [IMG]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2782/4300916934_7178890b4e_b.jpg[/IMG] Completed install, only the rear portion of the upper rail of the Griggs frame kit is visible from inside the car. [IMG]http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4070/4300170071_41ea672351_b.jpg[/IMG] By the way, I cut and welded on the factory power seat bracket to make it work with the griggs frame kit. Yes, the Griggs frame kit is overkill and overkill is what the SN95 mustang chassis needs for real improvments in chassis stiffness, especially the convertibles. I say do it and dont look back. [/QUOTE]
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