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The Terminator
Driveline
Help me build the strongest IRS pumpkin possible
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<blockquote data-quote="SlowSVT" data-source="post: 13309395" data-attributes="member: 20202"><p>That sucks about your diff going south. I have no experience with the T-Bird iron diff case but my understanding is they are sought after for drag racing but to what extent they are employed in that role or how well they hold-up I cannot say.</p><p></p><p>Iron is about twice as stiff as aluminum but that case is smooth and not webbed like the aluminum one. Shock loads may fracture the iron where cast aluminum will give a bit before it yields. The only thing that made me nervous were the mounting ears which is why I added those gussets. I haven't heard of too many AL pumpkins failing and they seem to hold-up well so there may be merit to what you stated.</p><p></p><p>I like the light weight and heat dissipation of the aluminum housing. With only a 2 1/2 quarts of oil trapped in that housing with no place to go like with axle tubes, then add the shitty thermal properties of iron and something tells me on a high powered road racer would turn your diff into a high velocity, high G deep fryer. I was talking to Mark over at On-Track Performance (Original builder of Bruce at FTBR blue race car) when I was purchasing my Torsen T2-R and he stated they were measuring over 260 degree sometimes getting close to 300 (just imagine those temps with an iron case). Get that hot and the fiber clutches in the Eaton Trac-Loc goes away. My cover is plumbed for an oil cooler but I first going to see how hot it gets. With the T2-R at this point I'm basically protecting the oil since it has no clutches to burn out. I did come up with an oil cooler design that I think will work better in the tight confines and low air flow behind the gas tank than a folded fin oil cooler. I'm a big fan of shedding heat where ever you can and this is a good place to do that.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="SlowSVT, post: 13309395, member: 20202"] That sucks about your diff going south. I have no experience with the T-Bird iron diff case but my understanding is they are sought after for drag racing but to what extent they are employed in that role or how well they hold-up I cannot say. Iron is about twice as stiff as aluminum but that case is smooth and not webbed like the aluminum one. Shock loads may fracture the iron where cast aluminum will give a bit before it yields. The only thing that made me nervous were the mounting ears which is why I added those gussets. I haven't heard of too many AL pumpkins failing and they seem to hold-up well so there may be merit to what you stated. I like the light weight and heat dissipation of the aluminum housing. With only a 2 1/2 quarts of oil trapped in that housing with no place to go like with axle tubes, then add the shitty thermal properties of iron and something tells me on a high powered road racer would turn your diff into a high velocity, high G deep fryer. I was talking to Mark over at On-Track Performance (Original builder of Bruce at FTBR blue race car) when I was purchasing my Torsen T2-R and he stated they were measuring over 260 degree sometimes getting close to 300 (just imagine those temps with an iron case). Get that hot and the fiber clutches in the Eaton Trac-Loc goes away. My cover is plumbed for an oil cooler but I first going to see how hot it gets. With the T2-R at this point I'm basically protecting the oil since it has no clutches to burn out. I did come up with an oil cooler design that I think will work better in the tight confines and low air flow behind the gas tank than a folded fin oil cooler. I'm a big fan of shedding heat where ever you can and this is a good place to do that. [/QUOTE]
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Help me build the strongest IRS pumpkin possible
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