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How to assemble a shortblock
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<blockquote data-quote="MalcolmV8" data-source="post: 8368521" data-attributes="member: 8854"><p>The reason I did plastigauge dry was because I saw that on TV <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /> They said to do it dry as the oil could fill up some of the space between the bearing and crank and give you inaccurate readings.</p><p></p><p>Anyways I cleaned off the plastiguage and repeated the procedure tonight with oil and as you said I could turn the crank quite easily. Even after torquing the mains down.</p><p>The big difference was the end play reading. I was able to move the crank back and forth to check end play by hand quite easily. No hammers or anything required.</p><p></p><p>End play with all the mains torqued is only 0.004" which is 0.1016 millimeters. Spec as mentioned above is 0.130-0.301 mm. So I need to increase my end play from 0.004" to around 0.006 to 0.008 or so.</p><p></p><p>The way I see this needs to be done is by removing the rear #5 lower bearing which wraps around the lower bearing cap and sand the sides of it till I get the end play I need?</p><p></p><p>Another side question on the main studs? When turning them into the block are you supposed to use lock tight? The reason I ask is each time I loosen the main nuts to pull a bearing cap it seems at least one stud turns loose from the block and I have get the allen wrenches out and tighten them back up. Is that normal?</p><p></p><p>Thanks</p><p>Malcolm</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="MalcolmV8, post: 8368521, member: 8854"] The reason I did plastigauge dry was because I saw that on TV :) They said to do it dry as the oil could fill up some of the space between the bearing and crank and give you inaccurate readings. Anyways I cleaned off the plastiguage and repeated the procedure tonight with oil and as you said I could turn the crank quite easily. Even after torquing the mains down. The big difference was the end play reading. I was able to move the crank back and forth to check end play by hand quite easily. No hammers or anything required. End play with all the mains torqued is only 0.004" which is 0.1016 millimeters. Spec as mentioned above is 0.130-0.301 mm. So I need to increase my end play from 0.004" to around 0.006 to 0.008 or so. The way I see this needs to be done is by removing the rear #5 lower bearing which wraps around the lower bearing cap and sand the sides of it till I get the end play I need? Another side question on the main studs? When turning them into the block are you supposed to use lock tight? The reason I ask is each time I loosen the main nuts to pull a bearing cap it seems at least one stud turns loose from the block and I have get the allen wrenches out and tighten them back up. Is that normal? Thanks Malcolm [/QUOTE]
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