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SVT Shelby GT500
meth water inject 50/50 questions
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<blockquote data-quote="Beercules" data-source="post: 15471301" data-attributes="member: 156123"><p>Matt snow injects his pre- blower. Saw it at Bandimere. He also runs a 50 shot. (They both absorb heat wherever you inject and decrease iat)</p><p>Run more water if you want cooling, more meth if you want octane.</p><p>Control with this: <a href="http://www.snowperformance.net/product-p/60500.htm" target="_blank">http://www.snowperformance.net/product-p/60500.htm</a></p><p>It fits in your vent (with the roush vent thing), tells you true boost pressure, if you're running low, or if you're not spraying. </p><p>Get the safe injection to dump boost if it stops spraying for any reason. </p><p>I've heard of a mishap where an unknown brand blew a tip off and hydrolocked an engine. Only heard that from one reputable source though which made me pause for a couple years. Diesel guys, import guys, anyone I could find had never heard of that. Maybe isolated incident? Still worth the mention due to rebuild cost.</p><p>Rotor coating. My rotor coating was worn before install. Haven't noticed additional wearing after install (TVS).</p><p>Meth also helps to seal the tolerances in your blower to raise efficiency and boost. </p><p>I did cams also before I got it on a dyno, but the n-gauge shows it calling for more timing when I start spraying... after Lund dialled in more timing on the remote custom tune.</p><p>IAT2 also drops as it sprays. Fun to watch.</p><p>I'm running a single large nozzle pre blower, don't need more, but I'm also at 6500 ft elevation and get less cfm than most of you guys. </p><p></p><p>Oh, if you get really power hungry, snow sells nitromethane immulsion to add to your reservoir. 50% o2 vs 33% o2 from nitrous. Really need to think about a/f before you play with that.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Beercules, post: 15471301, member: 156123"] Matt snow injects his pre- blower. Saw it at Bandimere. He also runs a 50 shot. (They both absorb heat wherever you inject and decrease iat) Run more water if you want cooling, more meth if you want octane. Control with this: [url]http://www.snowperformance.net/product-p/60500.htm[/url] It fits in your vent (with the roush vent thing), tells you true boost pressure, if you're running low, or if you're not spraying. Get the safe injection to dump boost if it stops spraying for any reason. I've heard of a mishap where an unknown brand blew a tip off and hydrolocked an engine. Only heard that from one reputable source though which made me pause for a couple years. Diesel guys, import guys, anyone I could find had never heard of that. Maybe isolated incident? Still worth the mention due to rebuild cost. Rotor coating. My rotor coating was worn before install. Haven't noticed additional wearing after install (TVS). Meth also helps to seal the tolerances in your blower to raise efficiency and boost. I did cams also before I got it on a dyno, but the n-gauge shows it calling for more timing when I start spraying... after Lund dialled in more timing on the remote custom tune. IAT2 also drops as it sprays. Fun to watch. I'm running a single large nozzle pre blower, don't need more, but I'm also at 6500 ft elevation and get less cfm than most of you guys. Oh, if you get really power hungry, snow sells nitromethane immulsion to add to your reservoir. 50% o2 vs 33% o2 from nitrous. Really need to think about a/f before you play with that. [/QUOTE]
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