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Open Track Racing
Mildly modifying ´03 Cobra for open track, please help!
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<blockquote data-quote="Jimmysidecarr" data-source="post: 6311252" data-attributes="member: 11681"><p>I am going to advise the minimalist approach for now for several reasons.</p><p></p><p>1. Let's let him get his feet wet first and make sure this is what he wants to do.</p><p>2. A 15 minute session may not put you into limp or "SPEW" mode.(overheat)</p><p>3. Different tracks and different drivers will load heat into the cooling system differently. He is brand new and most likely will not be going that hard.</p><p>4. 45* F is probably not going to be a problem.</p><p></p><p>I feel that brake cooling ducts are a GREAT first mod. No matter what level you are at, they are of major benefit and a nice added safety mod.</p><p>They allow the use of street and street/track type brake pads even when the driver has started to become faster. They also prolong pad life and provide cooling air to the front hub area which can get quite hot and heat shortens bearing life.</p><p></p><p>If he is thinking about doing this a lot I would seriously consider a Canton road race oil pan.</p><p></p><p>Radiator air flow enhancements such as boxing in the entering air pathway so all the air coming in has to go through the rad and not around it.</p><p></p><p><span style="font-size: 18px">I would do suspension LAST! </span></p><p>Other than these minor mods...</p><p>MM caster camber plates</p><p>MM solid rack bushings</p><p>Full length high quality sub frame connectors. Global West, Griggs, agent 47, something with jacking rails will make tire changes easier and rigidity greater.</p><p></p><p>After about 4 or 5 events(usually 8 20 minute sessions each here in the states) you wil know much better where to target you expenditures.</p><p></p><p>After you/he are hooked you will find that fuel, pads, and tires are eating a good amount of your budget. That is the main reason NOT to go mod crazy right off the bat. Plus a lot of newbs buy stuff they don't need, or don't need yet.</p><p></p><p>A driver will learn MUCH FASTER in a relatively stock car with street tires!</p><p>Concentrate on getting the driver as much practice as possible and then for the car concentrate on making it durable first.</p><p></p><p>I had 5 years of Ice Racing experience in a 78 Ford Fiesta and about 10 years of autocross, so I moved up into faster run groups a little quicker than most "normal" people, because I already knew the car control portion.(slides and recovery) The lines obviously are totally different between a FWD 1600 pound Ice Car and a 3900 pound high powered RWD car on asphalt.</p><p></p><p>I ran bone stock for almost 3 years with just SFCs, and brake cooling ducts. <a href="http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?t=295546" target="_blank">http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?t=295546</a> </p><p>Now I will admit I did not run more than 1 event a year back then, but I had a blast and learned some tricks to keep the car cool.</p><p></p><p>Shift early, at 4500 to 5k this will keep the heating down.</p><p>Put the vent function on full heat, aim the vents out the passenger window.</p><p>If it does start to a little get hot on you/him shift up into 5th on the straights and use part throttle to just cruise down to the next corner, then you can get back on it in the twisties where most of the fun is anyway.</p><p>..</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Jimmysidecarr, post: 6311252, member: 11681"] I am going to advise the minimalist approach for now for several reasons. 1. Let's let him get his feet wet first and make sure this is what he wants to do. 2. A 15 minute session may not put you into limp or "SPEW" mode.(overheat) 3. Different tracks and different drivers will load heat into the cooling system differently. He is brand new and most likely will not be going that hard. 4. 45* F is probably not going to be a problem. I feel that brake cooling ducts are a GREAT first mod. No matter what level you are at, they are of major benefit and a nice added safety mod. They allow the use of street and street/track type brake pads even when the driver has started to become faster. They also prolong pad life and provide cooling air to the front hub area which can get quite hot and heat shortens bearing life. If he is thinking about doing this a lot I would seriously consider a Canton road race oil pan. Radiator air flow enhancements such as boxing in the entering air pathway so all the air coming in has to go through the rad and not around it. [SIZE="5"]I would do suspension LAST! [/SIZE] Other than these minor mods... MM caster camber plates MM solid rack bushings Full length high quality sub frame connectors. Global West, Griggs, agent 47, something with jacking rails will make tire changes easier and rigidity greater. After about 4 or 5 events(usually 8 20 minute sessions each here in the states) you wil know much better where to target you expenditures. After you/he are hooked you will find that fuel, pads, and tires are eating a good amount of your budget. That is the main reason NOT to go mod crazy right off the bat. Plus a lot of newbs buy stuff they don't need, or don't need yet. A driver will learn MUCH FASTER in a relatively stock car with street tires! Concentrate on getting the driver as much practice as possible and then for the car concentrate on making it durable first. I had 5 years of Ice Racing experience in a 78 Ford Fiesta and about 10 years of autocross, so I moved up into faster run groups a little quicker than most "normal" people, because I already knew the car control portion.(slides and recovery) The lines obviously are totally different between a FWD 1600 pound Ice Car and a 3900 pound high powered RWD car on asphalt. I ran bone stock for almost 3 years with just SFCs, and brake cooling ducts. [url]http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?t=295546[/url] Now I will admit I did not run more than 1 event a year back then, but I had a blast and learned some tricks to keep the car cool. Shift early, at 4500 to 5k this will keep the heating down. Put the vent function on full heat, aim the vents out the passenger window. If it does start to a little get hot on you/him shift up into 5th on the straights and use part throttle to just cruise down to the next corner, then you can get back on it in the twisties where most of the fun is anyway. .. [/QUOTE]
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Mildly modifying ´03 Cobra for open track, please help!
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