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2nd Generation
NgkTr6 gap question
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<blockquote data-quote="Darren5.0L" data-source="post: 15455363" data-attributes="member: 31098"><p>I have a 4lb lower and see boost creep at the very top of a pull to 17 psi, it happens.</p><p></p><p>I see he's got an 8lb lower so pulleys for 16-17 psi total?</p><p></p><p>To the OP, here's the thing, why do we close the gap on our plugs?</p><p></p><p>In a perfect world we would run the widest possible gap allowable to ignite the fuel/air mixture as quickly and efficiently as possible. The wider the gap (in theory) the bigger the spark kernel to light off the charge, quicker ignition, more complete combustion, more power.</p><p></p><p>However we are limited in the size of gaps mainly due to ignition "strength" and the conditions under which the spark must survive. If the gap is too large the spark will "blow out" so to speak and not ignite the charge properly leading to poor performance, misfiring, or outright loss of power.</p><p></p><p>Since the Lightning ignition system is pretty much of a fixed output, when the conditions in the combustion chamber become more unfavorable, through the addition of boost, for example we respond by tightening the gap to ensure a strong spark is able to arc between the electrode and the ground strap.</p><p></p><p>If we gap too small, we may give up performance, or suffer poor fuel/air charge ignition because the spark kernel is strong but too tiny to ignite the entire charge during the very narrow window of the combustion event.</p><p></p><p>Here are some reference spark gaps for talking points.</p><p></p><p>5.0L NA Windsor engine 0.054"</p><p></p><p>5.0L Windsor, or Modular engine with modest boost (<12 lbs) 0.035"</p><p></p><p>Modular with ~12-17 lbs, +/- 0.032"</p><p></p><p>Modular with 18+ lbs, +/- 0.028"</p><p></p><p>and so on, basically the goal is to run the largest possible gap that gives 100% ignition reliability, in this case Dusten and I are suggesting 0.028". This is basically what is known to work, we aren't just throwing dart at the wall.</p><p></p><p>The heat range of the plug has little to do with spark ignition and has everything to do with thermal extraction, which keeps your plug from suffering high speed glazing or worse yet, turning into a glow plug and causing pre-ignition.</p><p></p><p>To keep this from becoming the Encyclopedia Britannica of spark plugs</p><p></p><p>TR6's are about right for the 14 psi range, and I have run them on my GT500 to 19 psi briefly, however the almost certainly correct plug for 18 psi and above is the BR7EF that Dusten mentioned.</p><p></p><p>If the combination will not run at 0.028" on a BR7EF you should look at the whole system, ignition coils, your WOT AFR, it could be too rich or too lean, there are a lot of things to consider. The Ford COP system, when in good working condition is a pretty strong system.</p><p></p><p>0.022" is very tight, I could maybe see 0.026", maybe.</p><p></p><p>Does the truck pop at WOT on boost alone, or only when on the spray?</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Darren5.0L, post: 15455363, member: 31098"] I have a 4lb lower and see boost creep at the very top of a pull to 17 psi, it happens. I see he's got an 8lb lower so pulleys for 16-17 psi total? To the OP, here's the thing, why do we close the gap on our plugs? In a perfect world we would run the widest possible gap allowable to ignite the fuel/air mixture as quickly and efficiently as possible. The wider the gap (in theory) the bigger the spark kernel to light off the charge, quicker ignition, more complete combustion, more power. However we are limited in the size of gaps mainly due to ignition "strength" and the conditions under which the spark must survive. If the gap is too large the spark will "blow out" so to speak and not ignite the charge properly leading to poor performance, misfiring, or outright loss of power. Since the Lightning ignition system is pretty much of a fixed output, when the conditions in the combustion chamber become more unfavorable, through the addition of boost, for example we respond by tightening the gap to ensure a strong spark is able to arc between the electrode and the ground strap. If we gap too small, we may give up performance, or suffer poor fuel/air charge ignition because the spark kernel is strong but too tiny to ignite the entire charge during the very narrow window of the combustion event. Here are some reference spark gaps for talking points. 5.0L NA Windsor engine 0.054" 5.0L Windsor, or Modular engine with modest boost (<12 lbs) 0.035" Modular with ~12-17 lbs, +/- 0.032" Modular with 18+ lbs, +/- 0.028" and so on, basically the goal is to run the largest possible gap that gives 100% ignition reliability, in this case Dusten and I are suggesting 0.028". This is basically what is known to work, we aren't just throwing dart at the wall. The heat range of the plug has little to do with spark ignition and has everything to do with thermal extraction, which keeps your plug from suffering high speed glazing or worse yet, turning into a glow plug and causing pre-ignition. To keep this from becoming the Encyclopedia Britannica of spark plugs TR6's are about right for the 14 psi range, and I have run them on my GT500 to 19 psi briefly, however the almost certainly correct plug for 18 psi and above is the BR7EF that Dusten mentioned. If the combination will not run at 0.028" on a BR7EF you should look at the whole system, ignition coils, your WOT AFR, it could be too rich or too lean, there are a lot of things to consider. The Ford COP system, when in good working condition is a pretty strong system. 0.022" is very tight, I could maybe see 0.026", maybe. Does the truck pop at WOT on boost alone, or only when on the spray? [/QUOTE]
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