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SVT Shelby GT500
Official UOA thread with oil poll
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<blockquote data-quote="dirtyo2000" data-source="post: 10899519" data-attributes="member: 106904"><p>Man that's opening a can of worms because everyone has their own break-in procedure. I know I like to play around with mine but never to agressive for the first 500 miles. First change is to get the prelubes out of the motor. All the cam lube and bearing lube used in assembly. Like myself I use WD-40 like crazy when I install the pistons in rings. All the lubricants get in the oil upon start up and start to float around the motor.</p><p></p><p>Assembled the motor in my Vette a few months ago. Started it up to make sure all was good. Drove it around for about 100 miles and changed the oil while the car was hot. Now I used regular 10-30 penzoil. When I drained the oil it looked a little reddish gold. Probably from all the cam lube that was used. Went right back with the pennzoil 10-30 and put 500 miles on that. Played with it every now and then but never took it over 5K. Did a few good pulls through third and fourth just to watch oil pressure.</p><p></p><p>After that I went with one last change for 250 miles. This was done because I started getting a few 7K shifts out of the motor and making sure all was straight before the big dyno day. The main thing is making sure the rings seat in properly. Bearings don't break in. Seating the rings is crucial and impossible on synthetic oil. After 250 miles of cutting the fool and seeing how things were going in the motor I now run Mobil 1 fully synthetic in it. All is well so far and 4K on the build. Still working a few bugs out still but HP is getting to meet my goals lol.</p><p></p><p>First oil change gets rid of assembly lubes. Second gets rid of all the metal that breaks in. Timing gears, oil pump gears, all rotating assembly shavings and metals that come off the motor. Enjoy and have fun.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="dirtyo2000, post: 10899519, member: 106904"] Man that's opening a can of worms because everyone has their own break-in procedure. I know I like to play around with mine but never to agressive for the first 500 miles. First change is to get the prelubes out of the motor. All the cam lube and bearing lube used in assembly. Like myself I use WD-40 like crazy when I install the pistons in rings. All the lubricants get in the oil upon start up and start to float around the motor. Assembled the motor in my Vette a few months ago. Started it up to make sure all was good. Drove it around for about 100 miles and changed the oil while the car was hot. Now I used regular 10-30 penzoil. When I drained the oil it looked a little reddish gold. Probably from all the cam lube that was used. Went right back with the pennzoil 10-30 and put 500 miles on that. Played with it every now and then but never took it over 5K. Did a few good pulls through third and fourth just to watch oil pressure. After that I went with one last change for 250 miles. This was done because I started getting a few 7K shifts out of the motor and making sure all was straight before the big dyno day. The main thing is making sure the rings seat in properly. Bearings don't break in. Seating the rings is crucial and impossible on synthetic oil. After 250 miles of cutting the fool and seeing how things were going in the motor I now run Mobil 1 fully synthetic in it. All is well so far and 4K on the build. Still working a few bugs out still but HP is getting to meet my goals lol. First oil change gets rid of assembly lubes. Second gets rid of all the metal that breaks in. Timing gears, oil pump gears, all rotating assembly shavings and metals that come off the motor. Enjoy and have fun. [/QUOTE]
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Official UOA thread with oil poll
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