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The Terminator
Engine/Tuning
Terminator Nitrous install with pics
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<blockquote data-quote="rattle_snake" data-source="post: 12231231" data-attributes="member: 126699"><p>Installing a nitrous system isn’t hard but there is a lot of wiring to be done. I refuse to trouble shoot electrical issues at the drag strip so I did the highest quality job possible. Every connection is soldered and heat shrunk, all wires are unique colors.</p><p>The supplied brackets for the WOT SW/solenoids are flimsy so I made a custom bracket. I started with a plumbers tape template and used some 1/8” steel.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]373007[/ATTACH]</p><p>[ATTACH=full]373008[/ATTACH]</p><p>Next was the solenoid mounting. I chose to place them on the right fender apron, and relocated the I/C pump relay box. I started with a thin sheet metal template that could be easily cut with tin snips. After a few tries I found the best fit and look.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]373009[/ATTACH]</p><p>The bracket is fabricated from sheet aluminum. All pipe threads are sealed with thread sealer.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]373010[/ATTACH]</p><p>I fabricated the wiring harness for the 3 relays. (nitrous/fuel, purge and Line lock). A 12 ga wire and a 30 amp fuse go to the fuse box stud. The relay sockets are mounted with countersunk flat head screws to a piece of aluminum so only one hole is drilled and used for coil grounds.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]373011[/ATTACH]</p><p>Relays mounted above CCM relays.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]373012[/ATTACH]</p><p>Another relay for the heater circuit is mounted on the right side of the trunk. A pressure sensor is wired in series with the heater rocker switch and the relay coil. I wasn’t paying attention and bought the ZEX heater off ebay and it already has thermistor for temp/pressure control. </p><p>[ATTACH=full]373013[/ATTACH]</p><p>The tank is mounted and the blow off tube is bent to use the existing hole in the trunk floor. Instead of hacking up the factory carpet I added a new piece of carpet and felt under the tank and just folded the factory carpet over on itself.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]373014[/ATTACH]</p><p>The MSD rpm window switch is mounted in the glove box. The counter input is wired to #1 cylinder coil- trigger at the computer harness. This is Pin 26 (light green/white).</p><p>[ATTACH=full]373015[/ATTACH]</p><p>I made my own version of a cup holder switch plate for about $10. It disconnects with a monitor extension cable and can be removed so the nitrous, heater and line lock cannot be accidently activated. </p><p>[ATTACH=full]373016[/ATTACH]</p><p>[ATTACH=full]373017[/ATTACH]</p><p>JLT (aka PVC drain pipe) intake drilled and tapped to 1/8 NTP and lines run. While the tubing was off I pulled all the plugs and gapped to 0.032”. The purge line is run to the cowl and exits next to the right windshield wiper.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]373018[/ATTACH]</p><p>I filled the tank and noticed the new NX gauge was off by 300 psi. Need to get a replacement.</p><p>I installed a 0.035/0.022 combo (~65 hp @ 900psi) and tried a few 2nd gear pulls. AFR was about 10.7 to 11.0. With the BAP fuel duty cycle is only 70% at 5krpms. No lean spike on activation. I think the fuel system will support at least a 100 shot. The XCAL can be used to pull timing out at the track.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="rattle_snake, post: 12231231, member: 126699"] Installing a nitrous system isn’t hard but there is a lot of wiring to be done. I refuse to trouble shoot electrical issues at the drag strip so I did the highest quality job possible. Every connection is soldered and heat shrunk, all wires are unique colors. The supplied brackets for the WOT SW/solenoids are flimsy so I made a custom bracket. I started with a plumbers tape template and used some 1/8” steel. [ATTACH=full]373007[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]373008[/ATTACH] Next was the solenoid mounting. I chose to place them on the right fender apron, and relocated the I/C pump relay box. I started with a thin sheet metal template that could be easily cut with tin snips. After a few tries I found the best fit and look. [ATTACH=full]373009[/ATTACH] The bracket is fabricated from sheet aluminum. All pipe threads are sealed with thread sealer. [ATTACH=full]373010[/ATTACH] I fabricated the wiring harness for the 3 relays. (nitrous/fuel, purge and Line lock). A 12 ga wire and a 30 amp fuse go to the fuse box stud. The relay sockets are mounted with countersunk flat head screws to a piece of aluminum so only one hole is drilled and used for coil grounds. [ATTACH=full]373011[/ATTACH] Relays mounted above CCM relays. [ATTACH=full]373012[/ATTACH] Another relay for the heater circuit is mounted on the right side of the trunk. A pressure sensor is wired in series with the heater rocker switch and the relay coil. I wasn’t paying attention and bought the ZEX heater off ebay and it already has thermistor for temp/pressure control. [ATTACH=full]373013[/ATTACH] The tank is mounted and the blow off tube is bent to use the existing hole in the trunk floor. Instead of hacking up the factory carpet I added a new piece of carpet and felt under the tank and just folded the factory carpet over on itself. [ATTACH=full]373014[/ATTACH] The MSD rpm window switch is mounted in the glove box. The counter input is wired to #1 cylinder coil- trigger at the computer harness. This is Pin 26 (light green/white). [ATTACH=full]373015[/ATTACH] I made my own version of a cup holder switch plate for about $10. It disconnects with a monitor extension cable and can be removed so the nitrous, heater and line lock cannot be accidently activated. [ATTACH=full]373016[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]373017[/ATTACH] JLT (aka PVC drain pipe) intake drilled and tapped to 1/8 NTP and lines run. While the tubing was off I pulled all the plugs and gapped to 0.032”. The purge line is run to the cowl and exits next to the right windshield wiper. [ATTACH=full]373018[/ATTACH] I filled the tank and noticed the new NX gauge was off by 300 psi. Need to get a replacement. I installed a 0.035/0.022 combo (~65 hp @ 900psi) and tried a few 2nd gear pulls. AFR was about 10.7 to 11.0. With the BAP fuel duty cycle is only 70% at 5krpms. No lean spike on activation. I think the fuel system will support at least a 100 shot. The XCAL can be used to pull timing out at the track. [/QUOTE]
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