IAT2s UNDER CONTROL IN 100+ temps

racebronco2

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If you have read my other post (http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/open-track-racing-203/839000-dual-heat-exchangers.html) you will know i have been doing alot of tests. this was an have been testing different heat exchanger. radiators, locations, fans and pumps.

Here is what my current set-up: Bumper support moved forward 1 1/4" so that a volkwagon rabbit radiator fits between the the bumper support and the radiator. In the picture below you can see the radiator cap, it sure makes filling up the system a whole lot easier. The vw radiator is only 1/4" away from the header support, the lfp h/e is also 1/4" away from the lower bumper opening. So what air enters these opening must go thru the h/e's. I cut the bumper cover behind where the license plate frame mounts and put mesh on the frame so that more air could enter the heat exchanger/radiator area along with the bumper support which is also partially cut out. I am using a meizere pump. The radiator is not boxed in.
Here is the previous best temps................................................................
ambient temps..........IAT2s....engine temps...................speeds..............
.....98*.....................165*.............208*.....................35-150mph............
.....98*......................130*........didn't look...................35-120mph..........
....105*....................151*.............235*..................same as above..........
The engine temps are a little high but the temps were 105*. There were several cars out there that were running extremely hot.
dsci0045w.jpg


dsci0046a.jpg

Video of the first track in which the speeds and airflow would be much higher than the slower track.NASA at AAA speedway qualifying for hpde/tt - YouTube
Second track video Running with shift-sector at the street of willow 1-21-12, 3rd session.wmv - YouTube
 
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Jimmysidecarr

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So is the rabbit rad used in place of the dual H/Es or with them?

Very interested. How is the weight issue also? That a lot of additional area to reject heat but it's also a lot more water weight right out on the nose. Or is it?

Maybe it's not that heavy.:shrug:

Anybody running a killer chiller out there in Cali with you guys? At road race type events?
 

racebronco2

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Forgot to mention, on the freeway in 102* the ait2's were 124* and engine temps were 206*with the a/c on. With the a/c off engine temps were 192*. In the city ait2's only went up 5*. I checked the intercooler water temps when i got home and they were only 4* higher then the ambient temps ..... 104* vs 100*. My ait2's were almost always around 30* degrees higher then the ait1's but in this heat it was closer 40* difference. I do have the jlt cold air. The only time it was 20* higher was in the cooler months.
 

racebronco2

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So is the rabbit rad used in place of the dual H/Es or with them?

Very interested. How is the weight issue also? That a lot of additional area to reject heat but it's also a lot more water weight right out on the nose. Or is it?

Maybe it's not that heavy.:shrug:

Anybody running a killer chiller out there in Cali with you guys? At road race type events?

I have the rabbit rad and the lfp h/e only.

The rabbit rad is only a single core, it's 22" by 11" dual pass.

I don't know of any cobra running a killer chiller on track. Most of the guys don't run their cars in the summer. I don't think the killer chiller can keep up with the high temps. A friend whom has a similar set-up as me, has one of my hood was running over 220* in 98* temps and was only using 3rd and 4th because of the high ait2's. I was using second at a couple places on track. His engine and oil temps never went over 210*.
 

racebronco2

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There is a 2" space between the radiators. The hole in the bumper cover is not necessary if you are not open tracking the car. The hole in the bumper cover is covered by the license plate, remove the license plate and now you have a hole the same size as the plate.
dsci0035g.jpg
 

racebronco2

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The flow will be determined by the smallest size hose/tubing/intercooler lines. The flow can be increases with a higher flowing intercooler pump.
 

04SilverSerpent

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What were your coolant temps in stop n go traffic w/ a/c on out of curiosity? Or was the 206 in stop n go compared to a lower temp at cruise that you didn't list? Are you running a 50/50 mix or a different variation.
Thanks
 

racebronco2

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What were your coolant temps in stop n go traffic w/ a/c on out of curiosity? Or was the 206 in stop n go compared to a lower temp at cruise that you didn't list? Are you running a 50/50 mix or a different variation.
Thanks

In town temps were about 199*. I am running a 30/70 mix. There is no reason to run anymore than that. When running 50/50 the cooling is diminished because antifreeze does not transfer heat very well.
 
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racebronco2

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I didn't like the high engine temps on the track. I went for my 30 mile test drive. On the way home climbing a slight 10 mile grade my engine temps were 225* at the summit, with the a/c off it would go down to 195* in 95* degree weather. I was noy happy with this at all. I removed the lower h/e which is a lfp unit and replaced it with a stock h/e. Temps on the same 30 mile test drive were as follows, the engine temps at the summit was 215* (10* lower than before), ait1's were about 95*(same as before) and ait2's were 122* (which is about 2* higher than before). So I am pretty happy with it now, i will be doing some one off ducting that will only work with my hood.
 

SVT_Troy

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Do you flush your fluid out with a machine before adding your 30/70 mix or just drain fill with water and run up to flush out whats in the block a few times before your mix?
 

racebronco2

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Do you flush your fluid out with a machine before adding your 30/70 mix or just drain fill with water and run up to flush out whats in the block a few times before your mix?

When i started this project i drained all the fluid. I refilled it with 30/70.
 

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