This is on a friend of mine's 98 Cobra. It's doing the fast clicking, such as when there's a bulb out. All of the bulbs have been replaced along with checking all of the fuses. Am I forgetting something??? That's the extent of my knowledge on what to look for. Maybe a bad connection on one of the wires?
Turn signal acting weird
- Thread starter play23
- Start date
It's the switch, very common.
I'll bet if he just moves it up or down to the "Signal to pass" position it works.
I'll bet if he just moves it up or down to the "Signal to pass" position it works.
I've seen vehicles do that when the bulbs have been replaced with the wrong bulbs. The correct ones were put in and it stopped.
its been doing that on mine too... I found if you hold it half down for a second, then click it all the way in it works ok... I've gotten into the habit of doing that.
isn't there also a relay? or is that what yall refer to as switch? i had to replace a relay in my expedition cause it was doing that in the back
My car did it to. I replaced the switch and the problem went away. Been good for a year.
switch. I had the same problem too.
Thank you very much. :coolman: I wouldn't have thought about the switch itself since it only has 36K on it. Appreciate the help. :beer:
I've got the same problem in my car. I actually just went through this in my '00 F150. Replacing the switch fixed the truck. This turn signal problem is in the "Sticky" for common SN95 problems... instructions on how to replace the switch are there too.
Good Luck!
Good Luck!
Not to dismiss the success of those who had their multi-function switch replaced and got their turnsignals back to a proper flashing rate BUT the multi-function switch has nothing to do with effecting the rate of turnsignal/hazard warning flashes as it simply directs the power to the bulbs to be flashed. For that matter, whether all bulbs in the turnsignal/hazard warning circuits are good or not, the rate of the flashing is not effected. Why you ask?: because the flasher units in our Cobras are electronic. They are not the old bi-metallic strip-type flasher units (the little aluminum can looking thing) with the bi-metallic strip that heats-bends-clicks-cools-bends back-repeats same, of yesteryear. They are solid-state with circuitry that is uneffected by the number of bulbs being operated (4 in turnsignal mode, 8 in hazard warning mode).
Two things (other than manual internal modification, ie. sequential turnsignals) could effect the rate: 1) something is wrong with the power supply/ground circuits to the flasher unit, or 2) the flasher unit has had an internal component failure of some type.
No. 1 can be caused by poor contact of the flasher unit's prongs in the plug. Find the flasher unit ( mine is a yellow plastic thingy about 1" square by 1-1/2" long) up under the dash by the fuse block, unplug it from its connector and plug it back in. Check for flasher rate. If OK you're done. If not, the grounding side of the flasher unit's supply circuit may have a bad ground connection effecting overall supply voltage to the flasher unit. The ground connection for the flasher unit is located on the right side of the console up under the dash. There are two green screws there with three wires grounded to the metal frame of the dash-to-console steel frame. No need to determine which screw specifically grounds the flasher unit, just unscrew both of them. Clean (emery or sand paper) the rusty steel frame surface where the wire terminal lugs contact the steel. Clean the lugs themselves. Wipe any residue off of the steel surface. Solder the exposed bare ends of the wires in the lugs to the lugs (this will assure proper electrical connection of the wire to the lug and eliminate any possible problem within the lug's compression barrel). Re-assemble screws. Test flasher rate. If okay you're done.
If not okay No. 2 applies - replace the flasher unit.
Two things (other than manual internal modification, ie. sequential turnsignals) could effect the rate: 1) something is wrong with the power supply/ground circuits to the flasher unit, or 2) the flasher unit has had an internal component failure of some type.
No. 1 can be caused by poor contact of the flasher unit's prongs in the plug. Find the flasher unit ( mine is a yellow plastic thingy about 1" square by 1-1/2" long) up under the dash by the fuse block, unplug it from its connector and plug it back in. Check for flasher rate. If OK you're done. If not, the grounding side of the flasher unit's supply circuit may have a bad ground connection effecting overall supply voltage to the flasher unit. The ground connection for the flasher unit is located on the right side of the console up under the dash. There are two green screws there with three wires grounded to the metal frame of the dash-to-console steel frame. No need to determine which screw specifically grounds the flasher unit, just unscrew both of them. Clean (emery or sand paper) the rusty steel frame surface where the wire terminal lugs contact the steel. Clean the lugs themselves. Wipe any residue off of the steel surface. Solder the exposed bare ends of the wires in the lugs to the lugs (this will assure proper electrical connection of the wire to the lug and eliminate any possible problem within the lug's compression barrel). Re-assemble screws. Test flasher rate. If okay you're done.
If not okay No. 2 applies - replace the flasher unit.
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While I agree with some of this ^^^^
The hazards and turn signals share the same solid state flasher.
Turn on the hazzards and if they work the ground/ power supply to the flasher isn't the problem.
However, the turn signal switch actually completes a circuit of its own, completeing a ground at after the bulbs.
(on wiring diagram, this is G100,G101 front. G302 rear and G206 at the gauge cluster)
If the turn signal switch has dirt, gunk and isn't making a good connection it will vary the voltage through the flasher and cause it to flash abnormally.
This is the only explination as to why a cleaned or new switch will fix the problem.
http://www.e-toolbox.com/ads/wiring/va076664.pdf
Of course I could be wrong, lol
Mechanic background VS. electrial engineer.
The hazards and turn signals share the same solid state flasher.
Turn on the hazzards and if they work the ground/ power supply to the flasher isn't the problem.
However, the turn signal switch actually completes a circuit of its own, completeing a ground at after the bulbs.
(on wiring diagram, this is G100,G101 front. G302 rear and G206 at the gauge cluster)
If the turn signal switch has dirt, gunk and isn't making a good connection it will vary the voltage through the flasher and cause it to flash abnormally.
This is the only explination as to why a cleaned or new switch will fix the problem.
http://www.e-toolbox.com/ads/wiring/va076664.pdf
Of course I could be wrong, lol
Mechanic background VS. electrial engineer.
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STAMPEDE3 said:
Well then, just for chuckles, get a can of contact cleaner and spray the MFS to eliminate any problem with crud. With the battery disconnected, operate the turnsignal stalk AND the hazard warning button several times while applying the cleaner to the contact areas within the switch.
Also check all of the indicated grounds before plunking down $'s for a replacement MFS.
The referenced ground points G100 and G101 are easy - they are the green screws atop the radiator support crossmember just above the headlamps. Same procedure as I outlined for the under-the-dash ground.
The reference ground G206 is the same ground that I described as being on the rightside of the console.
The referenced G302 ground connection point is the toughest: according to the service manual, as best as I can make out, it's on the tranny hump under the console. Not nice.
That's way too much work to do just for chuckles. lol
But Am I correct on this?
Does that make sence to you?
That was the only thing I could think of as to why the switch change or cleaning will fix the problem 99% of the time.
Also would explain why it would work in the signal to pass position but not in the full on blinker position. (Dirty contacts in full on)
But Am I correct on this?
Does that make sence to you?
That was the only thing I could think of as to why the switch change or cleaning will fix the problem 99% of the time.
Also would explain why it would work in the signal to pass position but not in the full on blinker position. (Dirty contacts in full on)
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I have the turn signal arm for sale off of my 98, $15 plus a couple of bucks for ship, pm me if any wants it, it worked just fine when I pulled it out.
STAMPEDE3 said:
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play23 said:
It may only have 32k on it, but its 9 years old.
SNAKEYE said:
STAMPEDE3 said:
In that case it is the same electrical contacts. The only difference is that you don't push the stalk far enough for it to mechanically latch and keep the signal flashing until you either push it off or the automatic mechanism pushes it off as the steering wheel straightens up.
So, play23, it's been a couple of weeks since you first informed us as to your friend's weird acting turnsignals.
Inquiring minds would like to know: did you guys ever solve the problem?
Inquiring minds would like to know: did you guys ever solve the problem?
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