Aluminator Swop

[DOHC]

Aluminator Swap

Is the Aluminator Long Block really a direct engine swop. Just take out old, unbolt outer parts(hoses, eletrical, steering, altinator, supercharger, etc...) and bolt on to new, or is there different parts needed. I searched and most info seemed to be old. I understand the Block is stronger and the heads are the 05' reviesed, but is the rest of the engine the same as the 03/04. Pistons, cams, compression, etc... Seems to be a cheaper rout than a rebuild especially if I can do the work with a friend and myself. Thanks for any help or suggestions.

 

[younggun04]

Is the Aluminator Long Block really a direct engine swop. Just take out old, unbolt outer parts(hoses, eletrical, steering, altinator, supercharger, etc...) and bolt on to new, or is there different parts needed. I searched and most info seemed to be old. I understand the Block is stronger and the heads are the 05' reviesed, but is the rest of the engine the same as the 03/04. Pistons, cams, compression, etc... Seems to be a cheaper rout than a rebuild especially if I can do the work with a friend and myself. Thanks for any help or suggestions.

swop? whats a swop? LOL JK

Yeah should be a direct swap, But It is still stock 03/04 cobra parts so a built motor with stronger pistons would still be the way to go if you were planning on running more power.

 

[DOHC]

Ahhh....Ya.... swap....LOL thanks

I want around 550 to 600 RWHP with a twin screw. Mostly for road track use for fun not competition. I would like to do the work myself.

 

[DOHC]

Has anyone done this. Im just looking for the most info I can befor I purchase the long block.

 

[DOHC]

No body has installed a aluminator engine?

 

[forcefedcobra]

I got one. It was a nightmare to be honest. FRPP says they have fixed all the issues since us early run guys solved their problems for them.

A few key things.....................You might have to grind down the boss' that are in the valley in order to get the lower intake to fit. You will also have to make your own fitting for the pcv fitting that comes out of the lower intake (either that or plug it)............Also make sure you inspect everything on the motor before you try to start it!!!!! Make sure the motor spins easy by hand and nothing is catching.

Also if you plan to run 600 rwhp on the road track prepare to get a dedicated set of track wheels/tires, better brakes, and some cooling mods at minimum.
On street tires my car has trouble keeping traction rolling out of a corner in 3rd and even 4th gear. Also my stock brakes hated life after a couple days of on track fun.

 

[DOHC]

Thanks. This is the type of info. im looking for. cooling mods and brakes on the way.

 

[DOHC]

Does anyone know of any venders selling the long block version of the Aluminator at a good price?

 

[Presteige]

I got mine built at ProLine in Atlanta Ga.... Got built internials and used stock heads...

 

[forcefedcobra]

Thanks. This is the type of info. im looking for. cooling mods and brakes on the way.

Good deal. Glad I could help. If you do end up going aluminator and have any questions feel free to PM me. Myself and jumperjack have been through it all (good and bad) so it seems that most people search the forums and get pointed in our direction. I have even had people sent to me from other forums that I dont even post on.

Does anyone know of any venders selling the long block version of the Aluminator at a good price?

Tousley Ford! Give Steve a call.

 

[mmustangsrus]

Good deal. Glad I could help. If you do end up going aluminator and have any questions feel free to PM me. Myself and jumperjack have been through it all (good and bad) so it seems that most people search the forums and get pointed in our direction. I have even had people sent to me from other forums that I dont even post on.



Tousley Ford! Give Steve a call.

:beer: yea i think you were one of the guys steve @ tousley refered to when me & him were talking about alum. vs stock long block & i went with the iron block

 

[forcefedcobra]

:beer: yea i think you were one of the guys steve @ tousley refered to when me & him were talking about alum. vs stock long block & i went with the iron block

Yep that was me. I dont try to talk anyone out of going with an aluminator. I just give them the facts and let them decide. Hope everything worked out for ya.

 

[DOHC]

What are the negitive sides of the aluminator vs stock? Most the research I have done on this site and others are that the alumi is stronger and better for cooling. and all the older issues have been fixed form ford.

 

[Presteige]

what are the negitive sides of the aluminator vs stock? Most the research i have done on this site and others are that the alumi is stronger and better for cooling. And all the older issues have been fixed form ford.

+1

 

[forcefedcobra]

What are the negitive sides of the aluminator vs stock? Most the research I have done on this site and others are that the alumi is stronger and better for cooling. and all the older issues have been fixed form ford.

+1

When I purchased mine the negative that we found out was that FRPP installed the crank incorrectly and it caused the front harmonic balancer to eat the timing cover and piss oil all over the place. My buddy and I figured this out by simply making sure the crank would rotate by hand (something you would want to do on any motor new or junk yard pos).........After finding this issue and talking to numerous other people that had the same issue FRPP blew smoke up our butts saying "Wow you are the first person who had this issue" even though a bunch of us were all talking to eachother and all calling at the same time.

My buddy and I ended up taking the motor apart and building it back up. Had I known this is what we were going to end up with I would have just bought the block and saved time and money by swapping over the crank/rods from my old motor into the new block.

The main bonus of the aluminator is that it will come with revised heads and is lighter. It's still tough as nails for being an aluminum block. If you get the reman motor from tousley it will come with revised heads also, but you wont get the weight savings since it will be an iron block. Really it all just comes down to your budget.

 

[jumperjack]

Well I can speak about the aluminator with a bit of experience so here goes. Like Forcefed said it has been a nightmare with the first production run of these and although FRPP said it corrected the problems I have my doubts. We had to take the original back out of the car (it was never started) waited for them to ship a brand new one to put in. I put approx 5,000 on the motor and went through several changes during that time. First I had the KB 2.6H and then went to 2.8H and finally decided I was just going to run a Stage V Eaton w/100 shot. I put the eaton on and switched to a 2lb. Metco lower got it tuned on E85 and was about to put a 100 shot kit on the car when it started sounding like my TOB was going out. I had several people look and all of us was sure it was the TOB because of the noise when you would push the clutch in. I replaced the TOB even though it was almost new and low and behold still had the noise. At this point we went over the car with a fine tooth comb and realized whenever I pushed the clutch in the crank was actually moving forward causing the noise which was a squeaking. I immediately took the lower off and put the stocker with the cage on it and presto noise gone. I am in the process of getting the motor out of the car now and will be checking it but am almost sure I will find it way out of spec on end play. Needless to say the motor that is going back in the car will not be the Aluminator but a Boss 302 iron block. I will gladly post up pics and vids as soon as I get the motor out but am currently rehabbing due to hand surgery so it will still be a couple weeks.

 

[forcefedcobra]

Well I can speak about the aluminator with a bit of experience so here goes. Like Forcefed said it has been a nightmare with the first production run of these and although FRPP said it corrected the problems I have my doubts. We had to take the original back out of the car (it was never started) waited for them to ship a brand new one to put in. I put approx 5,000 on the motor and went through several changes during that time. First I had the KB 2.6H and then went to 2.8H and finally decided I was just going to run a Stage V Eaton w/100 shot. I put the eaton on and switched to a 2lb. Metco lower got it tuned on E85 and was about to put a 100 shot kit on the car when it started sounding like my TOB was going out. I had several people look and all of us was sure it was the TOB because of the noise when you would push the clutch in. I replaced the TOB even though it was almost new and low and behold still had the noise. At this point we went over the car with a fine tooth comb and realized whenever I pushed the clutch in the crank was actually moving forward causing the noise which was a squeaking. I immediately took the lower off and put the stocker with the cage on it and presto noise gone. I am in the process of getting the motor out of the car now and will be checking it but am almost sure I will find it way out of spec on end play. Needless to say the motor that is going back in the car will not be the Aluminator but a Boss 302 iron block. I will gladly post up pics and vids as soon as I get the motor out but am currently rehabbing due to hand surgery so it will still be a couple weeks.

I was wondering what was going on with your car Jack. Last I saw you were talking about going turbo and maybe even auto (with your newly modded hand). Sounds like FRPP just did a half a$$ job on the fix with your second motor. They offered me the same deal but since the shipping company screwed up and didnt bring a pallet jack like requested with the first one so they were in turn refusing to unload the motor and going to take it back to the warehouse..............and I then in turn had to get them to take it to my father in laws work so he could remove it with a forklift........I said to hell with that and figured my buddy and I would just go through it and make sure we fixed everything. Atleast now I know that it was done correctly instead of a "hurry up and try to keep their mouths shut" type of deal.

I bet they still didnt install your crank correctly.........I'm running a 2# metco lower on mine with no issues but have heard that they are going to come out with a "caged" setup so I plan to swap when that happens. I never understood why places offered a caged and uncaged lower setup on the lightnings but never on the cobra's.

Take care bud! heal up fast and get to work on that cobra!

 

[jumperjack]

I was wondering what was going on with your car Jack. Last I saw you were talking about going turbo and maybe even auto (with your newly modded hand). Sounds like FRPP just did a half a$$ job on the fix with your second motor. They offered me the same deal but since the shipping company screwed up and didnt bring a pallet jack like requested with the first one so they were in turn refusing to unload the motor and going to take it back to the warehouse..............and I then in turn had to get them to take it to my father in laws work so he could remove it with a forklift........I said to hell with that and figured my buddy and I would just go through it and make sure we fixed everything. Atleast now I know that it was done correctly instead of a "hurry up and try to keep their mouths shut" type of deal.

I bet they still didnt install your crank correctly.........I'm running a 2# metco lower on mine with no issues but have heard that they are going to come out with a "caged" setup so I plan to swap when that happens. I never understood why places offered a caged and uncaged lower setup on the lightnings but never on the cobra's.

Take care bud! heal up fast and get to work on that cobra!

I am anxious to get working on it but gotta heal first. The car will be a turbo set up this time around. I was at SGS a week or so ago and going over the new set up with Dave. I don't have exactly what the set up is going to be yet but am working on it. I believe if the Aluminator would have been built properly to begin with it would be a winner. I am going with the iron block Boss because I believe it will live longer in a high HP motor. I am glad to hear yours is doing well I should have pulled mine apart and done it myself too. I am anxious to see what I have when I get the aluminator out of the car.

 

[forcefedcobra]

I am anxious to get working on it but gotta heal first. The car will be a turbo set up this time around. I was at SGS a week or so ago and going over the new set up with Dave. I don't have exactly what the set up is going to be yet but am working on it. I believe if the Aluminator would have been built properly to begin with it would be a winner. I am going with the iron block Boss because I believe it will live longer in a high HP motor. I am glad to hear yours is doing well I should have pulled mine apart and done it myself too. I am anxious to see what I have when I get the aluminator out of the car.

Without a doubt. I'm eager to see some pics of it too! Too bad getting FRPP to do anything worthwhile about it is going to be a complete joke.

I thought about having MP (the same group that built Jeff's aluminator for him) do the boss block build for me but when I started putting pen to paper and figuring getting new heads and everything it just wasnt worth it for me. I keep thinking TT too but I think I'm gonna get another daily driver instead.

Keep me in tune bud.

 

[jumperjack]

I am going to use the heads off the aluminator and get them done up since they are the revised ones. I'll make sure to get you some pics and info when I get the engine out.