03 Cobra Spec 2+ vs Spec 3+ clutch

[noeleven]

I was doing some search on clutch.
I currently have Spec +2 clutch on my car and clutch peddle is very stiff.
I saw post saying +3 clutch is more soft and streetable clutch.
Is spec +3 clutch is more soft than Spec +2 clutch?

 

[cj428mach]

My friend has a spec stage 2 and its extremely stiff like twice as stiff as stock. I had a spec stage 3+ and was extremely light like my twin disc.

 

[Franco]

I'm running a spec 3+. Very light pedal. Actually softer than stock

 

[WHITESTRIPES]

Those with the spec 3+ and light pedal option, did you have to extend the pivot ball? I was told the fingers sit higher, causing a few issues?

Sent from my SM-G930V using the svtperformance.com mobile app

 

[04oxfordvert]

what kind of issues would not extending the pivot ball cause? just curious as i recently installed a spec 3+ with light pedal and when hot has hard time dis enguaging.

 

[IllCobra]

I just ordered a spec 2+ from lethal with the Low Pedal Effort Option. It's supposed to feel softer than stock. We'll see

 

[SnakeBit]

what kind of issues would not extending the pivot ball cause? just curious as i recently installed a spec 3+ with light pedal and when hot has hard time dis enguaging.

Do you have an OEM cable or aftermarket? Some aftermarket cables will do that when hot. Best to use an OEM cable and lubricate it (several videos on YouTube show how to do this). Also, watch how you route the cable to keep it as far away from the exhaust as possible.

Extending the pivot ball will move the clutch arm closer to the engine block within the opening. This could limit how much your clutch disengages.
I have found that when reinstalling the transmission, the clutch arm should be in the middle or a bit farther back in the opening when the TOB is resting against the pressure plate. If it is too far back and hits the back edge of the opening, the clutch may not engage completely.

In my last job, we were making file folders on large presses. Bearing usually fail with time. The more they rotate, the closer they get to failure. The TOB was designed to rotate with the pedal out because that was the only way they could make the adjustment with the OEM quadrant (without going to hydraulics). But spinning the TOB all of the time WILL shorten it's life. Ideally, the TOB should last as long as the clutch does, but in my experience, it does not in the OEM setup.

In addition, the Retainer tube the TOB slides on is a POS in the OEM version. In my case, the tube broke well before either the clutch or the TOB failed. I replaced it with a stainless version from Lethal. Also used high temp lube on the tube to make it easier for the TOB to slide back and forth. Mine is now adjusted with a small gap (using the LDC Freeplay mod) between the TOB and Pressure Plate at rest. So far, my clutch (Spec 3+) TOB (FRPP HD TOB) and Retainer tube have lasted much longer than the OEM versions did.

 

[04oxfordvert]

Awesome. Thanks for the reply. I have a brand new Orem cable that will be going in shortly. Aswell as an mow shifter. I'm sure the cable will fix my problems.

 

[noeleven]

It is been a while I came to online on this forum. Been to busy.
I have BBK Aluminum Firewall Clutch Cable Adjuster and maybe it is the cause of such heavy clutch?