2014 5.0 running hot?

[Zona14Stang]

What should the cylinder head temp be? and coolant temp? I just replaced the thermostat with a 180 once from Orielly. I still see my coolant temps on my Aeroforce guage at 200 - 222. I see my cyl head temps at 252.

I live in AZ so we were 90 but this was later in the day. I let it idle about 10 mins before I just changed the tstat. I am running the VMP Gen2.
Thanks

 

[noldevin]

Changing the thermostat does nothing for cooling. It only changes the minimum temperature, not the max. If your cooling system is already at max capacity, you need a better radiator, not a thermostat.
Also, changing the thermostat requires a tune change to correct when the fans kick in.

You can try a more open grille or removing the grille fog lights, that usually helps quite a bit with cooling once you're moving.

That being said, that's pretty high for a cylinder head temp, I don't even see that on the road course. Before you throw parts at it, I'd make sure your coolant is bled properly and has no air in the lines, cap isn't leaking, etc.

 

[fishpick]

I let it idle about 10 mins before I just changed the tstat

I know this may be a stupid question... but is there any chance at all you put the t-stat in backwards? I'm not insulting you at all... but if you just changed it - and you have purged the system of all air... that could be the culprit.

 

[lshin037]

Isnt the stock tstat a 180? The stock one on my 2014 was 180 and I changed it to a 170. Brought temps 10 degrees cooler across the board.

 

[Zona14Stang]

Nope I put the tstat in the correct , I take no offense to that especially when like a dumbass I put the oring in the first like the box said! Yep it leaked rather nicely. no leaks now just way too damn hot. any other good ways to purge the system of air other than holding the resovoir up?

 

[fuelforfire87]

Yea the stock thermostat is 180, which would explain why OP's temps haven't gone down. I did the premium gauge cluster swap last year before winter and my cylinder head temps are usually around 210 degrees after the car is fully warmed up. I don't remember off the top of my head what the coolant temp was. This is with the stock thermostat.

 

[WhiTriCobra]

Usually they say whatever your head temps are, minus 10 and that's your coolant temp. Even when it's hot and humid here in South GA, I see 195 head temps but that's driving. Of course stop and go will make it rise a little more. But, I have a 170 Reische stat, 2013 GT500 radiator fan, 50/50 mix with purple ice.

Right now with our cool weather, I usually see 190 solid. Even in stop and go.

You can always jack the front end up too. That will cause the air to travel to the highest point.

 

[Zona14Stang]

I had the front up on jack stands when put the coolant in but might not have let it run enough. I am debating on the Ford Racing Radiator since I do drive it yeat round and in the summer we are cooking 110 - 115 so the road temps are are crazy hot. I might jack it up again tonight and try and circulate it again.

 

[Zona14Stang]

looks like I still had air in it. When I got home last night I checked and the resevoir was low. I added more coolant temps are better but after driving 4 miles and idling for 10 mins i still had the cyl head temp get to 221 and the coolant to 208. So tonight I will put the front back up on jack stands and try that again.

 

[noldevin]

221 is in the realm of acceptable, so you're almost there.

 

[Zona14Stang]

Well it started to over heat again. Found the problem my electric cooling fan was not coming on. Today I discovered the plug from the harness from inside burned. They sell the replacement plugs at the dealer for $28 going to put it in tomorrow. I am still thinking of getting the ford racing aluminum radiator the M-8005-MGT model. Since I live in the Phoenix area I am wandering if it is worth it. Any thoughts?

 

[Zona14Stang]

thanks to sam for telling me about the plug problem

 

[fuelforfire87]

I would imagine the larger ford racing radiator would be a good upgrade since you live in a warm climate. That and also a better fan to help move more air.

 

[Zona14Stang]

wired the new plug in and have voltage at plug and syill no fan so tha fan is toast. i ordered the svt fan and radiator from summit will post an install thread

 

[WhiTriCobra]

The fan is a pretty easy install. I've done radiators on other stangs and should be easy too. I would probably change the water/coolant ratio too, maybe 70 water 30 coolant. Add water wetter too. What's nice about water wetter, it also has rust and corrosion inhibitors.

 

[fishpick]

I did the FRPP radiator and the GT500 fan as part of my Whipple install last week - nothing to it. Hardest part (if you have an auto) is the stupid stock radiator has the huge plastic "feet" molded into the base that really don't want to let go of the auto trans cooler lines when you pull things out - but I yanked the radiator w/ the fan still on it... it's like 4 bolts on the top, the degas bottle, and a few hoses... really nothing to it!

The FRPP radiator is MASSIVE by comparison of the stock unit... I'm expecting a BIG difference in just that. If I had it to do over again - I think I'd get the radiator and skip the extra cost of the GT500 fan (said by someone who has installed things but not started the car yet)... radiator - big physical differences (the middle tabs on the front don't want to play nice with the auto trans HE as well, but can be made to comply), the fan - middling differences, physically.

 

[KP_510]

Would having bugs on the radiator through an open grill possibly cause a lack of air flow keeping temps higher than normal? I've been having a similar issue for sometime now


Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com

 

[SVTStampede]

I did the FRPP radiator and the GT500 fan as part of my Whipple install last week - nothing to it. Hardest part (if you have an auto) is the stupid stock radiator has the huge plastic "feet" molded into the base that really don't want to let go of the auto trans cooler lines when you pull things out - but I yanked the radiator w/ the fan still on it... it's like 4 bolts on the top, the degas bottle, and a few hoses... really nothing to it!

The FRPP radiator is MASSIVE by comparison of the stock unit... I'm expecting a BIG difference in just that. If I had it to do over again - I think I'd get the radiator and skip the extra cost of the GT500 fan (said by someone who has installed things but not started the car yet)... radiator - big physical differences (the middle tabs on the front don't want to play nice with the auto trans HE as well, but can be made to comply), the fan - middling differences, physically.

From what I've "heard", the Gt500 Fan's benefit is also due to its shroud having flaps that open at speed. Though if you have the whipple heat exchanger fans, I'm sure you have a lot of flow in general.

 

[fishpick]

From what I've "heard", the Gt500 Fan's benefit is also due to its shroud having flaps that open at speed. Though if you have the whipple heat exchanger fans, I'm sure you have a lot of flow in general.

Yeah - the flaps are friggin micro flippers... maybe 1" tall and 2-3" wide... I can't imagine they really do a whole lot.
I did this fan because I heard the blade design moves more air quieter... but it looks like the stock one. So. I dunno. #marketing I guess

Also - no Whipple fans to start - easy to add later and those Spal fans are friggin loud and since it's a vert - I didn't want to listen to them!!!

I did design an Arduino based controller that reads intercooler fluid temps and can spin fans up or down based on temp... so later on I may try adding them and my controller - for now a fanless!

 

[WhiTriCobra]

My thoughts are about the same on the flappers. At higher speeds they will open but A they are not that big and B at those speeds you already have a ton of air rushing into it.
but if it's suppose to cool a 13 and up GT500, definitely work for me.

I have a spal on my tranny cooler and had them on my 03 Cobra and L heat exchangers, but never heard them running over the exhaust.