6R80 Boosted Street Car:-)

JSetzer1

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What is most reliable, best power adder for a 2014 GT auto stock engine, street car plus supporting mods to make it live? Built motor does not seem in the budget. Just want a strong running reliable street car that builds good power and almost even torque. Thanks in advance.

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11Sec_Lx

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A VMP Gen 2 TVS. It won't require a torque converter at low boost levels like the Whipple, turbos or centrifugals will. They give throttle response NOW when you want it. Iat2's are not an issue and power will not fall off. I'm on year #5 with mine. It's been 100% headache free. My car is driven every weekend. My initial goal was to run 10.50's. I ran that my first year. You can see where it is now. So tame. So crazy when I want it to be. Perfect for me. My $.02

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GNBRETT

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the VMP is a solid choice. Im a Turbo guy but for ur goals the VMP Gen 2 stuff is hard to beat.

I mean shit look at 11sec_Lx car and that shud say it all for you. A pretty simple combo actually going low 9's smh. hard to beat that when u drove it to the track passing cars on trailers that were a full second behind you.....:eek::p

If I were you sitting in ur shoes right now I wud be thinkn either VMP Gen II or CPR Turbo kit. honestly, in the end their gonna be a comparable price when its all said and done.

The Turbo kit will take you further then the VMP stuff will. but define further? I mean shit if ur going low 9's with ur street car uve pretty much reached any goal u ever dreamed of having but if u wanna go Faster that blower is pretty much tapped out.

Power and TQ will be closer with a Turbo at the boost levels ur gonna be running on the street.

The Turbo kit will make more power on pump 93 tho and will make far more Torque and there will be no heat sink, belt breaking or slippage and u will never have to change pulleys. both the blower and the Turbo have their advantages but imo the Turbo has no disadvantage.

Turbo cars love Circle D Torque Converters tho and the stock one will not cut it so u have to figure that into it as well. another $1200

personally I got 4 mpg better gas mileage with the Turbo kit over the TVS but that has so many variables for everyone it don't really mean much
 

Riptide

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VMP ftw. If you are at altitude however I suggest a stall converter. Stock stall in mine best I've squeezed out of it is a 1.67 60'. Trap around 128-130 on 91 with a 10.8 ET.
 

Riddick

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I see a trend here leaning towards the 2.3 VMP kit, I would also consider looking into the Roush 2.3 kits. VMP kit will out perform the Roush but if you find a great deal on a Roush I would jump on it. Roush and VMP blowers will easily make enough power to max out your stock block.

So for reliability go with a TVS, if you want max power go with a turbo kit. I have heard great things about the CPR kit and the Hellion twin kits make great power as well.
 

WIST2013GT

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All the kits like VMP/Whipple/Paxton/Vortech/Roush/Turbo/Whatever will make similar power and run similar times when you are trying to keep the stock motor together.

I have a Vortech with no converter and went 10.8@132 on straight 93 driven to and from the track.

The real kicker is the torque. If you want torque on demand, you will want a PD style blower.

If you want something that feels completely stock while daily driving it and is cheaper get a centri.

Again, there is no right answer for this stuff. Its all preference. Ride in one/drive one of each and see what you like.

Good fuel and tuning will make or break the motor. Pick a good tuner and have good fuel and you will have a 10 second capable car that will last a while with ANY power adder.
 

GNBRETT

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yea the PD blower will come on a little quicker then the Turbo (Not by much tho with a CPR kit) but as you said the real kicker is TQ. and with a Turbo kit ur gonna make WAY more TQ.

Blowers unfortunately tend to level out with linear power bands. I simply got bored with mine after a while.

Torque is wat gets you going. THAT is wat makes ur car feel fast! HP jus keeps you going....

The real kicker is the torque. If you want torque on demand, you will want a PD style blower.
 

JSetzer1

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A VMP Gen 2 TVS. It won't require a torque converter at low boost levels like the Whipple, turbos or centrifugals will. They give throttle response NOW when you want it. Iat2's are not an issue and power will not fall off. I'm on year #5 with mine. It's been 100% headache free. My car is driven every weekend. My initial goal was to run 10.50's. I ran that my first year. You can see where it is now. So tame. So crazy when I want it to be. Perfect for me. My $.02

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Thanks for the response, why do the shipped and turbo require a stall?


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11Sec_Lx

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Thanks for the response, why do the shipped and turbo require a stall?


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They don't make torque as quick or low in the rpm range and need the extra stall speed rpm to get moving with the same grunt. If you want to travel to Indianapolis, I'll meet up with you or I'll pick you up from the airport if you want to fly in. I'll drive you around in my car for an hour or so. You will leave wanting to duplicate it.

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biminiLX

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Thanks for the response, why do the shipped and turbo require a stall?


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It's about time to torque, meaning the PD blower hits hard and that allows a tighter stock like converter to couple quickly and provide near instant acceleration.
Definitely an advantage for feel of torque on street cars and launching a heavy street S197.
Centris and turbos build torque later and need a looser converter get the engine into the higher rpm torque curve.
You can make either work at the track but the feel on the street favors the TVS blower inear instant torque.
-J
 

biminiLX

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They don't make torque as quick or low in the rpm range and need the extra stall speed rpm to get moving with the same grunt. If you want to travel to Indianapolis, I'll meet up with you or I'll pick you up from the airport if you want to fly in. I'll drive you around in my car for an hour or so. You will leave wanting to duplicate it.

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Hope you Scott and I all get to the track in fall weather this year John!
Your car is doing some work!
-J
 

JSetzer1

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They don't make torque as quick or low in the rpm range and need the extra stall speed rpm to get moving with the same grunt. If you want to travel to Indianapolis, I'll meet up with you or I'll pick you up from the airport if you want to fly in. I'll drive you around in my car for an hour or so. You will leave wanting to duplicate it.

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What is your set up? If you don't mind sharing

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11Sec_Lx

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Hope you Scott and I all get to the track in fall weather this year John!
Your car is doing some work!
-J

Thank you. The car has definitely surpassed my expectations with this setup. I plan to make a few upgrades before I make anymore passes. It might happen this fall or I may wait until spring. In the meantime it gets driven every weekend like normal. I can't wait to see what you guys do in the fall.

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Riptide

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I've had the gen2 system with stock stall, id1000, and bap for a little over two years now. 91 pump fuel, 72mm pulley. I get away with that pulley because of altitude. Trap is 128-130mph pretty much full weight car.

It has probably made a couple dozen passes at the track and a lot of pulls on the street. I have no complaints. It has excellent manners on the street and gets decent mileage for a 600hp automatic car. VMP's kit was a huge step up over the 2.6 kenne bell I had on my 3v car. Easier to install and much better intake temps.

I have no regrets at all and would recommend this system to anyone. At this point I have no intent to mod the car any further unless it comes apart on me. Plenty of power already even with a MT 305/45r17 it has traction problems on the street where it spends most of the time.
 

11Sec_Lx

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A Hasty bracket is a bracket that Scott Hasty designed to add an idler pulley under and to the side of the blower pulley to get more belt wrap. Works like a charm.

Feel free to IM me any questions you want to ask. I have no secrets.

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11Sec_Lx

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For a Hasty bracket, contact Scott8583 via IM here or look up Scott Hasty on Facebook.

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