blew the motor, starting the re build MMR750

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NewOrleans-YAT

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I blew my Kenne Bell Bullitt. I am currently pulling the motor. I ordered a MMR 750 rotating assembly with MMR custom cams. Block is going to Diamond Racing in Hammond La for the machine work. I am keeping the heads stock but I am rebuilding them my self. This is my first build and looking forward to it. I have read George Reid 4.6 rebuild book at least 12 times so far. The only thing that scares me a little is the getting the timing correct. I am only looking for about 500 HP. I have the suspension and brakes completed for track days at the NOLA Motorsports Park witch has a INDY track.

Any advice with the build is greatly appreciated.

Eric
 
jaxbusa

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How much hp did you have that blew the engine? Also, I would highly consider what ZEN357 said.


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Three21

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I wouldn't go for TFS heads and intake for 500hp.

I'm currently reworking my stock heads now with some mild porting, TFS upgraded springs/locks/retainers, new valve seals and hand lapping the valves. Mine won't need any more than that.

Before breaking them down I flipped the heads over and filled the chamber with water then forced air down the ports to check the valve seats for leaks.

After pulling the springs check the valves for how much play they have in the guide. I had basically 0 movement on the intake valves and a tiny wiggle on all exhaust valves (clearance for heat+expansion) so mine were good to go. If you have excess movement you will need a machine shop to remove and press in new ones. If that's the case have them do a 3-angle valve job while they're at it.

Unless you lifted a head or overheated the engine you shouldn't need the heads to be decked.

Regarding timing, I went with TFS adjustable crank gears. I've heard too many horror stories about the adj cam gears. I'm not much help other than that as I will be doing it in the next few months myself, but there are plenty of How-to's here and on other sites.

Have fun with your rebuild. I recommend picking up Sean Hyland's "How to Build Max Performance 4.6L Ford Engines". It has some useful info on clearances and touches on all parts of the engine top to bottom.
 
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Three21 said:
I wouldn't go for TFS heads and intake for 500hp.

I'm currently reworking my stock heads now with some mild porting, TFS upgraded springs/locks/retainers, new valve seals and hand lapping the valves. Mine won't need any more than that.

Before breaking them down I flipped the heads over and filled the chamber with water then forced air down the ports to check the valve seats for leaks.

After pulling the springs check the valves for how much play they have in the guide. I had basically 0 movement on the intake valves and a tiny wiggle on all exhaust valves (clearance for heat+expansion) so mine were good to go. If you have excess movement you will need a machine shop to remove and press in new ones. If that's the case have them do a 3-angle valve job while they're at it.

Unless you lifted a head or overheated the engine you shouldn't need the heads to be decked.

Regarding timing, I went with TFS adjustable crank gears. I've heard too many horror stories about the adj cam gears. I'm not much help other than that as I will be doing it in the next few months myself, but there are plenty of How-to's here and on other sites.

Have fun with your rebuild. I recommend picking up Sean Hyland's "How to Build Max Performance 4.6L Ford Engines". It has some useful info on clearances and touches on all parts of the engine top to bottom.
Click to expand...
Awesome thanks for the info. my car had 69k miles. Engine was flawless except for the huge buildup up of carbon on the pistons. I think that contributed to the spun bearing. I checked the heads for flatness down to .002 with a strait edge. I lapped all my valves. The valve stem seals had no play at all. Rebuilt with a Trick Flow Head upgrade kit. Going with MMR cams. I am also not going with adjustable cam gears. I read the same stories. lets keep in touch through the build. My block will be ready this week.
 
geoffmt

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MMR has been great to work with for me, I can’t recommend the trick flow heads enough, they are a piece of artwork
IMG_1706.JPG



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geoffmt

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yes, I paid Modular headshop to have them degreed, since I am lacking in the knowledge. I just had to match up the dots
 
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Three21 said:
Lookin good.

How did you go about cleaning up your heads and valves?
Click to expand...
My heads were clean. No oil burn at all. I used a little purple power and pressure washer.

The exhaust valves were dirty. I work for 3M and we make our version of a wire wheel. Except its not made of metal. Its an injected polymer that we embed with ceramic. Its soft and abrasive at the same time. I cleaned them on a bench motor. Lapped them with course then fine.
 
Three21

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Adjustable crank gears.

Either way it is performed with the heads on the block and timed with your rotating assembly.
 

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