Boost A Pump fried wiring and melted fuse. I need help...

99lightning_svt · Mar 8, 2017

Hello,

Today i decided to pull the car out and do some cleaning and maintenance. I happen to come across this, a melted fuse and burnt wires. I'm really not sure when this happened since i rarely drive the car.

I'm going to guess it was rewired when i had cams put in a couple years back.

I need some help figuring out what caused this, i would greatly prefer if my car didn't burn down.

SVTdreamin04 · Mar 8, 2017

It could be a number of things. Oversized fuse, loose connection causing high amp draw. It looks like the butt splice connector coming oFF the fused wire got very hot also. A loose connection can cause high amps, which generates heat as well. You may also have a short. I'm going to say by the looks of how everything is burnt, you may have a short. All this can be verified with a good quality multimeter.

BoostedSVT03 · Mar 8, 2017

Also looks like the power source wire is too small. If I remember my previous setup I ran a large wire from the battery to the BAP

I also ran a relay since I had mine wired pre FPDM

nxhappy · Mar 8, 2017

double check the wire routing, I bet something was wrong, causing a short

SVTdreamin04 · Mar 9, 2017

Post #3 makes a good point. Now that I look closer, it does look as if that is a rather small gauge wire supplying your booster. You may be dropping voltage which will also cause amperage to increase which generates heat. You definately have heat issues on that circuit with the way that butt splice connector looks. I cold be of more help if I knew for sure what circuit your booster is tapped in to, but I/we on here can only give suggestions on what to look for since electrical rebels hooting can be a number of things. I deal with electrical controls daily, and it's tough to diagnose some of these issues without putting a meter to it.

99lightning_svt · Mar 9, 2017

BoostedSVT03 said:
Also looks like the power source wire is too small. If I remember my previous setup I ran a large wire from the battery to the BAP

I also ran a relay since I had mine wired pre FPDM

I see you have a relay switch, i do not. Mine is ran with a vacuum switch and my fused wire goes into the FPDM. The wire between the FPDM and Boost a pump got so hot it melted the rubber off of it.

I know there are different ways to run these but i feel like mine maybe run incorrectly.

SVTdreamin04 · Mar 9, 2017

You need to use the wire currently spliced in to your fuses wire going to the booster to power a relay. Then run a wire large enough to handle the current from the battery. This will eliminate voltage drop and overloading the wiring that is too small. You will need to repair the damage wiring also. Make sure your spliced connections when using butt splice connectors are tight. If they are loose, you can also have voltage drop issus which lead to high amps as well.

BoostedSVT03 · Mar 9, 2017

Yes I ran a relay and had the BAP control wires soldered to make the BAP run at 100% pre FPDM. My new setup with return is attached.

99lightning_svt · Mar 9, 2017

SVTdreamin04 said:
You need to use the wire currently spliced in to your fuses wire going to the booster to power a relay. Then run a wire large enough to handle the current from the battery. This will eliminate voltage drop and overloading the wiring that is too small. You will need to repair the damage wiring also. Make sure your spliced connections when using butt splice connectors are tight. If they are loose, you can also have voltage drop issus which lead to high amps as well.

Im not sure i follow what you are saying, however i think i need to run my BAP pre FPDM and ditch the pressure switch and wire those two together.

Run a hot 8g (what size fuse?) wire form the battery to the trunk to a relay.

Repair and rewire the burnt wire for post FPDM.

30 should go to the fused BAP line.

87 should be Hot.

85 should be ground.

86 (trigger) should go to FPDM yellow/green.

Non-Fused red BAP wire to yellow/green FPDM harness.

Does this look correct?

SVTdreamin04 · Mar 10, 2017

I was referring to the fused wire (the red one going to the Boost a Pump) needs to be switched by a relay and power supplied to the relay contacts needs to come straight from the battery to prevent voltage drop. Be sure to retain the correct fuse for the boost a pump, if you were to go bigger and something shorted, it could be bad. The wire that you run from the battery to the relay should be large enough to prevent voltage drop and it should also be fused as close to the battery as possible. Use the wire coming off of the fuel pump driver module (FPDM) to power the relay on and off. I would have to look up the schematics for the Boost a Pump to answer your other questions. Use the correct butt splice connectors and make sure they are crimped properly also. Buy a good set of crimps and be sure to use the insulated crimps and not the non insulated crimps. I see this mistake alot which creates problems with loose connections and will even damage the insulation on the connectors.

speedoflife · Mar 10, 2017

99lightning_svt said:
i think i need to run my BAP pre FPDM and ditch the pressure switch and wire those two together.

*YES*

Run a hot 8g (what size fuse?) wire form the battery to the trunk to a relay.
*40A fuse in the engine bay for the new hot 10-8ga wire*

Repair and rewire the burnt wire for post FPDM.
*I would replace all of the connectors because I'm paranoid, but I see what you're saying (i.e. repairing the brown/pink wire)*

30 should go to the fused BAP line.
*yes*
87 should be Hot.
*yes*
85 should be ground.
*yes*
86 (trigger) should go to FPDM yellow/green.
*if by 'FPDM yellow/green' you mean the wire that goes into the wiring harness, yes*
Non-Fused red BAP wire to yellow/green FPDM harness.
*if by harness you mean the connector side, yes*

Does this look correct?

You obviously understand what's going on (in terms of electronics) and what to do - this shouldn't be too tough for you man! Don't forget to replace the 20A mini fuse under the hood (by P.S. res.) in slot 14 with a 30A mini fuse.

If you don't have this link, please check it out:
https://www.svtperformance.com/forums/threads/bap-wiring-upgrade-installation-directions.244875/

Good luck! Glad you didn't have a fire start.

speedoflife · Mar 10, 2017

Also, I don't know whose install this is, but it makes me so jealous. One day I'll redo mine to be this beautiful.

99lightning_svt · Mar 14, 2017

Okay I got everything patched up all wires are soldered and shrink rapped.

Question 1. I have a something's running straight off the battery which I feel like isn't preferable. I have a itercooler with twin fans that look to be powered buy two relay switches with one power wire going straight to the battery. Is this the proper way to power them or should power be coming from the fuse box?

Question 2. I also have a couple more things such as HID lights and cutouts that are wired straight to the battery. Is there some kind of remote power block I can install or is there a better safer way to power these random devices?

Thank you all for your help. I built this car when I was 19, so as you can imagine I keep finding things that were not done properly or to my current standards.

99lightning_svt · Mar 14, 2017

Okay I got everything patched up all wires are soldered and shrink wrapped.

Question 1. I have a something's running straight off the battery which I feel like isn't preferable. I have a itercooler with twin fans that look to be powered buy two relay switches with one power wire going straight to the battery. Is this the proper way to power them or should power be coming from the fuse box?

Question 2. I also have a couple more things such as HID lights and cutouts that are wired straight to the battery. Is there some kind of remote power block I can install or is there a better safer way to power these random devices?

Thank you all for your help. I built this car when I was 19, so as you can imagine I keep finding things that were not done properly or to my current standards.

speedoflife · Mar 14, 2017

99lightning_svt said:
Question 1. I have a something's running straight off the battery which I feel like isn't preferable. I have a itercooler with twin fans that look to be powered buy two relay switches with one power wire going straight to the battery. Is this the proper way to power them or should power be coming from the fuse box?

As long as the hot wire from the source is fused, it doesn't matter where it comes from (battery vs fuse box). If you read that link I posted, he goes over instructions for mounting the wire to the fuse box. There are 2 ring terminals coming off the box stock. I just added a third terminal with my power wire coming off of it. For that many accessories, you could wire a (FUSED!) 4 gauge wire with a ring terminal to the fuse box and then run that to a distributor somewhere that had wires going to your various accessories/relays/etc. That way you could hide almost everything.
Or run them from the battery.
Or try to squeeze individual ring terminals onto the fuse box output (they won't fit FYI haha).
Whatever works, works. I went with the fuse box option because it looks clean, and I'd do a distributor were I you.

99lightning_svt said:
Question 2. I also have a couple more things such as HID lights and cutouts that are wired straight to the battery. Is there some kind of remote power block I can install or is there a better safer way to power these random devices?

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_97435_JL-Audio-XD-FDBU-4.html

Anything will work, really, but this is very nice and fused.

99lightning_svt · Mar 14, 2017

Okay that confirms what i had in mind my only issue i find is that the wire that goes to the intercooler is not fused it goes straight to the two relays. I think i'm going to have to pull the bumper and see what the hell HPP did.

BoostedSVT03 · Mar 14, 2017

If you run lots of large gauge cables you can get a terminal distribution block from a high end car audio place. See this crappy zoomed in photo of my new setup.