Sanded the POR15 base coat and sprayed their Cast Aluminum color over it.
2.jpg)
2.jpg)
Cam covers, AFCO, KB 2.2, 03 Cobra Installation Pictures - Some assembly req.!
- Thread starter sonicmach1
- Start date
Powder coating is done and it came out great - by J&J Performance Powdercoating. Now it is time to start the reassembly!
I currently have the halfshafts silver, but I may change that to black.
I currently have the halfshafts silver, but I may change that to black.
Last edited:
Looks even better that I imagine it would! Do you have any plans for the gas tank cover or undercarriage?
I have no other plans for the tank or cover.
You should get a behind bars race cars aluminum tank and polish it. That would be sick
That's gonna be ALMOST too pretty to drive.
ALMOST... and IF I get it put back together!
A few more parts ready for installation.
Full Tilt Boogie Racing Rear 13" Lightweight Brake Kit
The kit reuses the stock calipers which coupled with the larger diameter rotors will have improved braking force.
Light enough to hold the rotor with two fingers
SVT Logo Inner Trunk Cover
I finally found a polished way to cover up the unfinshed inner stock trunk lid. This will look especially good during car shows. Thanks to Michelle Shamer for making these! You can look on Facebook Cobra groups as Michelle Shamer. On SVTP she is 03_cobra_chick
Full Tilt Boogie Racing Rear 13" Lightweight Brake Kit
The kit reuses the stock calipers which coupled with the larger diameter rotors will have improved braking force.
Light enough to hold the rotor with two fingers
SVT Logo Inner Trunk Cover
I finally found a polished way to cover up the unfinshed inner stock trunk lid. This will look especially good during car shows. Thanks to Michelle Shamer for making these! You can look on Facebook Cobra groups as Michelle Shamer. On SVTP she is 03_cobra_chick
Last edited:
Where did you get that liner?
And since the calipers are the same, how does an increase in rotor size help? The footprint for the pad would not increase.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
And since the calipers are the same, how does an increase in rotor size help? The footprint for the pad would not increase.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The liner I got via a Facebook seller. You can look on Facebook Cobra groups as Michelle Shamer. On SVTP she is 03_cobra_chick.
Regarding the brake improvement due to a larger diameter, think of the reverse condition of a breaker bar. You apply the same force from your arm, but over a much larger moment arm than a short wrench so the higher torque you generate allows you to loosen high torque bolts.
Brake Torque (retarding) = Friction force from the caliper-pads x Moment arm (Approximately the Radius of the rotor) --> In actuality, the effective radius to the center of the pad area.
So lets say the caliper creates 1000 lb of force *11.6"/12/2 ft = 483 lb-ft of retarding torque for stock 11.6" rotor
AND
1000*13.5/12/2 = 541 lb-ft of retarding torque for the 13" rotor
12% better. But this kit is much lighter than stock which improves wheel control, vanes may be better at heat dissipation, etc. too.
________
Extra Credit
Then... you can sum up the wheel torques divided by the tire radius to calculate the force at the tire-ground interface that stops the car. Knowing road-tire friction you can estimate at what brake torque causes that tire to slip or lockup. Knowing the velocity and mass of the car and weight transfer, inertias, etc. you can calculate how long in time or distance the car takes to stop. Fun physics!
Regarding the brake improvement due to a larger diameter, think of the reverse condition of a breaker bar. You apply the same force from your arm, but over a much larger moment arm than a short wrench so the higher torque you generate allows you to loosen high torque bolts.
Brake Torque (retarding) = Friction force from the caliper-pads x Moment arm (Approximately the Radius of the rotor) --> In actuality, the effective radius to the center of the pad area.
So lets say the caliper creates 1000 lb of force *11.6"/12/2 ft = 483 lb-ft of retarding torque for stock 11.6" rotor
AND
1000*13.5/12/2 = 541 lb-ft of retarding torque for the 13" rotor
12% better. But this kit is much lighter than stock which improves wheel control, vanes may be better at heat dissipation, etc. too.
________
Extra Credit
Then... you can sum up the wheel torques divided by the tire radius to calculate the force at the tire-ground interface that stops the car. Knowing road-tire friction you can estimate at what brake torque causes that tire to slip or lockup. Knowing the velocity and mass of the car and weight transfer, inertias, etc. you can calculate how long in time or distance the car takes to stop. Fun physics!
Last edited:
Is it the woman that makes the covers?
And thinks no of the brakes in that manner makes more sense. I was not getting past pad surface area.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
And thinks no of the brakes in that manner makes more sense. I was not getting past pad surface area.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes, Michelle makes them.
I am finally in the reassembly phase. The spindles and hub are all done. The a-arm bushings are installed as well as the Zerk grease fittings on each arm.
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
Yes, they are wired on the backside nuts.
When I need a break from wrenching, I am also working on improving the battery cable + & -, adding a direct alternator ground, new terminals, etc.
The 1/0 and 4 AWG cables look great with heavy duty lugs, adhesive shrink wrap, lugs in the same orientation at each end. I am also using a more robust and efficient 200 Amp circuit breaker in lieu of a fuse.
The 1/0 and 4 AWG cables look great with heavy duty lugs, adhesive shrink wrap, lugs in the same orientation at each end. I am also using a more robust and efficient 200 Amp circuit breaker in lieu of a fuse.
Last edited:
Getting there...
Control arms, spindles and hubs attached for checkout. All new fasteners throughout. Cleaned the differential inside and out. I used new gear lube to flush out contaminents after my cleaning and discarded it.
Control arms, spindles and hubs attached for checkout. All new fasteners throughout. Cleaned the differential inside and out. I used new gear lube to flush out contaminents after my cleaning and discarded it.
Last edited:
Polished my new Borla exhaust end sections that I bought back in 2009.
Preparing to put the Ford Racing Diff cover on. What a big difference versus the stock cap!
Preparing to put the Ford Racing Diff cover on. What a big difference versus the stock cap!
Studding the diff cover. Tapped the holes a bit deeper ~ 4 more threads. I may keep this setup or revert to the new allen head bolts supplied with the cover.
Users who are viewing this thread
