Current Dream 99 Build questions

Igotaname

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Hey guys. Long time reader. First time poster.
I was struggling to get my clutch out. So I pulled the whole motor out to get the transmission off. Damn top bellhousing bolts. And Ive had a epiphany while its sitting out on the stand.

Ive been racing the car in street 1/8ths. Ive thrown the idea out lot that I want to hop up my 99's engine.
Taller rear gear and a ripping weight out has been my only real daydream. But. Ive been thinking more thoroughly recently.

I want to launch my car on tall 28 bias plys and make a good amount of power to 7500ish RPM. In fact I kind of want that to be the only thing it does, except traveling between drag races.
What's a damned fine way to do that for this thing?

Right now Im thinking about a short runner intake. A cam that stays alive or flat into the 7500. Some strong springs and forged internals with a 4.56 or 4.88 gear. 1st gear be damned. Oil pump gears be billet. T45s be exploding.

Is that a surefire way to meet my goal? Ive read so much from this forum and others Ive gotten choice fatigue.
Im a fan of nos and have used it in the past. High comp pistons. The works. Ive just never touched a 4v. Ive only raced mine for a year and its been pretty lackluster and making me want more.

Someone solidify a choice to get a nasty 1/8th miler that screams all the way home?
 

scottydsntknow

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Look up the NASVT "recipe" to max out your shit on the stock engine. You didn't have to pull the engine to get to those top bolts either... you lean it back as far as it'll go, get about 4ft of extensions and a helper, hold the socket on each top bolt with a universal swivel on it to make it possible to get it all the way on and then have said helper break them loose and that's it. I've done multiple transmission swaps with 4.6L engines doing it this way. You could also have just pulled the intake to access those bolts from the top...

As far as a 7500 redline, my junkyard 4V has the limiter set to this and I pull to 7200-7500 regularly no issues. If you just want a 1/8 mile screamer then yeah throw the highest gears you want in it and get a tune.
 

shurur

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NASVT recipe fixed!!!
General consensus for NA ~320 RWHP with 99-01 DOHC C-Head 4.6L:
K&N filter
OEM Cams
March damper
March hydraboost and WP pulleys
Long tubes
Hi Flow Cats/Cat Delete mid-pipe
Tune (canned..more $ for real tuner tune)

360-370 RWHP:
106060 comp cams properly degreed.
short runner
Tune

This is an OEM <7K RPM range recipe.

The OEM cams can be degreed for a liitle more on the first phase list..

Recently I'm Not sure what a SRI does for oem cams..and recently not sure what SRI does for <7k RPM range. It was a cut of 1.5" off the runner length for those 106060 cams..then I found other quotes contradicting this..

I'm just not willing to bother nasvt (Todd Warren) for further clarification on this right now.
 
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scottydsntknow

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I still want to know what the hell the March hydraboost is... I can't even find it on Google. Either my Google-fu is awful or its OOP lol.
 

shurur

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I still want to know what the hell the March hydraboost is... I can't even find it on Google. Either my Google-fu is awful or its OOP lol.

It's the ps pulley....and should be hydroboost..but I just left it spelled like that.
jegs has this stuff too..
alt pulleys can be swapped as well, but are not on the recipe.
alt pulley changes will require you get a different length belt..

And if you do the pulley mod alone, and can afford it, do a before and after dyno please !!
I have yet to find a before/after dyno for just the pulley mods on the same car, with the same dyno...ever...

NASVT
LINKS
1>Hydraboost (Power Steering): http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MCH-640-08/
2>Water pump: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MCH-1172/
3>Alternator pulley
OEM size (2.375”) alternator pulley replacement:
2.7”: $25 ALTERNATOR UNDERDRIVE 2.70" PULLEY FITS 1996-98/1999-2001 COBRA, Speed Concepts
3.2”: $30 ALTERNATOR UNDERDRIVE 3.20" PULLEY FITS 1996-98/1999-2001 COBRA, Speed Concepts
4” alt pulley: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MCH-116/
4>March fluid damper: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MCH-1158-08/
 
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scottydsntknow

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I have serious doubts that pullies do even damn thing. Maybe the fluidamper just for the harmonics at high rpm but that's it...

There are no other before and after dynos? You'd think there would be as much as the nasvt recipe is mentioned.

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shurur

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I think the gains are in the upper rpms..like maybe 6200+.
And those running the dynos don't take the engine up there because they don't see anything coming from them down low...but I have seen dynos from comparable cars with and without....still..i want to see something from the same car..

Those pulley sets are essentially what was on the 2000R.
 

scottydsntknow

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Ok well thats something to think about. I was going to order a Steeda udp set so I'll have to compare the diameters. Honestly just to slow down the accessories at 7k for longevity purposes.

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scottydsntknow

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Well the Steedas are SFI certified and my car is an actual Steeda car so anything with the logo on it is cool to add. Like I said I'll have to see what the dimensions of the stuff is.
 

52merc

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Compliance to SFI 18.1 has to do with the materials used in construction and the ability of the damper to pass an endurance test of 1 h at 12,500 to 13,500 rev/min. It has nothing to do with the effectiveness of the damper to reduce engine vibrations.

I just finished reading an abundance of posts on this and other sites. Like most subjects, there are a lot of opinions, but no clear consensus on whether UDPs are worth it or not. Many of the posts strongly warn against the Steeda product, yet there are about as many that claim many miles of trouble free operation. I believe that many of the Steeda related engine failures where early units that may have had some QC issues.

I think if I were to go that route, I'd go with an ATI 918041 harmonic damper which is 15% underdrive and pair that with a March 1172-08 short water pump pulley or 1152-08 long water pump pulley and 113-08 alternator pulley. This is 6-rib which is all that is needed for N/A. I could not find a single post where someone was not recommending them.
 

scottydsntknow

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That's really good info thanks man. I'm still on old stock stuff right now so I need to replace it eventually. It was originally just to get the car running to pass shipment inspection over to me in Europe for my PCS but its been running well and everything operating smooth to 7K+ so I keep putting off spending the money lol. I'll look into that stuff for sure.

I haven't seen any negative stuff on the Steeda stuff but I'll re-check, I'm sure its there and I'll find it if you did. Although I've seen morons post how pullies "ruined" their car and come to find out that the bought a piggyback kit where you have to bolt the OEM balancer on the pulley and never did it so have to factor the human element in as well. I know the Steedas you are not piggyback units but then you have ppl not using torque wrenches or figuring out other creative ways to **** up an install. Probably just a good idea to get the good stuff and go honestly.
 

98_Undertaker

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I have the March power steering pulley and the 4” cobra r alternator pulley I’ll sell cheap. Both are new in the box I did go ahead and grind the alternator pulley since it has the known problem of being too far forward.

As for hp gains they will pick up some I think Todd (NASVT) said 10 or so is what he saw on the dyno.
 
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