There it is!!! Finally got the long tubes off after dropping the k-member and lowering the engine a little. This is a pic looking up at the motor on the passenger side, firewall to the right. That gasket looks as bad as that exhaust leak sounded. That bolt at the heart of the leak was the last and most difficult to get off. It wasn't tight just hard to get to. It's going too be a real chore getting that bolt tightened right with the new gasket. I could barely get a wrench on it with the motor lowered as far as it would go without disconnecting everything.
Question: I'm replacing the gaskets on both sides with the oem metal crush gaskets. Should I put any type of high temp sealer on them or just put them on as is? I'm using grade-8 locking bolts but I just want to make sure that I'm doing everything I can to make sure I never need to do this difficult job ever again. I also don't want to interfere with their normal function.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
Question: I'm replacing the gaskets on both sides with the oem metal crush gaskets. Should I put any type of high temp sealer on them or just put them on as is? I'm using grade-8 locking bolts but I just want to make sure that I'm doing everything I can to make sure I never need to do this difficult job ever again. I also don't want to interfere with their normal function.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
