Did a search and couldn't find anything on this. Does anyone know how to wire an IAT2 to the PCM properly?
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Did a search and couldn't find anything on this. Does anyone know how to wire an IAT2 to the PCM properly?
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Thank you. I have a whipple so that's not in my instructions. I didn't realize the roush had it in there.
So would I need to also do the MAF re-pin if I do this?
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So I actually went to whipple and one of the guys I have been dealing with mentioned this and then gave me a sensor and made me a wire harness. It plugs into the MAF and then goes to the IAT2 sensor they gave me. I plugged it all up and the car kinda ran funny. So I disconnected it. I wanted to learn more before I continued. This is the harness they made me.
I noticed my IAT on my cluster was staying at about 130 on a 102 degree day. Is that right and maybe I just need Lund to alter the tune?
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Perfect! That harness split's the MAF wires so it reads IAT from the sensor instead of the MAF. It runs funny bc your current sparks correction tables are set for IAT1 not IAT2. With that harness on it be reading your true air temps after the blower, which is why it read 130*.
Have lund adjust those tables for you, he uses HPT so he should be quite familiar with them.
I edited my earlier post so if you wanna go back and re-read it I explained it a bit better
Ok cool deal. That makes sense. So it really doesn't do a IAT2 but modifies the placement of the IAT. Meaning Lund doesn't have to guesstimate the IAT2 or factor that into the tune correct?
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Correct. The ECM still think's the IAT signal it's getting is at the MAF, but it's actually from the IAT sensor. This gives you a accurate reading so you don't have to guesstimate your IAT2's, but since your tune prob has spark corrections based on IAT1's it doesn't play well with the new sensor. A tune update can fix all of this
You da man. Thanks for the help!
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If you have the 2.9L whipple it does not include the IAT repinning stuff. I made a thread about this before. You can buy the IAT stuff seperate and repin it. I think it would be easier to slit the MAF though. That is how it is done on the 15+ models too.
I have a CJ manifold, so I can tap either a runner along the inside or the plenum itself. On the stock manifold you should be able to tap the bottom rear for it. Would need to check my stock manifold to make sure but i'm pretty sure there is enough room to mount the sensor there.^that is pretty smart. Now the trick if you are running a stock manifold is where and how to mount the sensor
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