PLEASE HELP INSIDE PART 2

[nickstobias]

I posted a thread a week ago and got many responses so thank you. I blew a ringland on cylinder5, driving it conservatively believe it or not. Anyway they quoted me 7500 for the built shortblock. They then sent me a additional updated estimate with other things that they suggested that i do. They said it would drastically help even more of the engine bottom end to be bulletproof. As the price went up to 12k now. Please let me know your opinions if the added stuff is really worth it or if they are really trying to upsale me. Thanks attached fileshould be bellow

 

[nickstobias]

Sorry estimate should work now

 

[merkyworks]

All said and done $12k for parts/labor and your driving it down the road again isn't to bad really. Most can spend $12k easy on just a shortblock.

Pretty much all of the items on this quote will be needed to rebuild your motor. The billet crank sprocket and oil pump gears are worth it since your rebuilding. The billet fuel rails you could do without and if you later need to add them they are easy enough to install. You could also do without the dyno tune but since you just blew your motor getting it retuned probably isn't a bad idea.

 

[Catmonkey]

I don't see anything on there that you shouldn't be doing anyway. The BPS fuel rails aren't necessary and you can always do that later. But resurfacing the heads is a good idea. ARP head studs are a worthwhile addition as well. The hurricane pump comes with billet gears which is also a needed upgrade now that you'll have good rods.

 

[RBB]

Pretty much all that is needed, that's not a bad quote at all. I'd ditch the billet fuel rails (not needed) and add some NSR cams, billet secondary cam sprockets, HD secondary chains, and an upgraded passenger side tensioner if your budget allows it. This will add another $1,500 or so to the estimate, but if you've got the engine out it's hard not to go with a nice aftermarket cam....you'll probably regret it later on.

 

[nickstobias]

Pretty much all that is needed, that's not a bad quote at all. I'd ditch the billet fuel rails (not needed) and add some NSR cams, billet secondary cam sprockets, HD secondary chains, and an upgraded passenger side tensioner if your budget allows it. This will add another $1,500 or so to the estimate, but if you've got the engine out it's hard not to go with a nice aftermarket cam....you'll probably regret it later on.

The shop told me that ported heads and cam don’t net the greatest gains


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[sleek98]

The shop told me that ported heads and cam don’t net the greatest gains


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Heads not that great, cams yes. Depending on the grind and other mods it could be 50+hp

Everything seems to be in line. Might be a couple hours high to remove and replace the motor.

 

[Pribilof]

Good cams cams net anywhere from 50 to 100 rwhp. As long as the engine is out I would definitely add a set of cams.

 

[Catmonkey]

The stock 07-12 cams are very mild. While it may not produce the biggest gains, not having more cam timing will ultimately limit your power output once you start upgrading other components. My recommendation would be to look for a set of take off 13-14 camshafts.

 

[RBB]

The shop told me that ported heads and cam don’t net the greatest gains


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Ported heads, yes that's true unless you're moving a lot of air with a big blower. Cams - absolutely not true. Plus they sound killer.

 

[nickstobias]

Ported heads, yes that's true unless you're moving a lot of air with a big blower. Cams - absolutely not true. Plus they sound killer.

I know but I’ve reached my financial limit it makes enough power with the Gen2R and supporting mods just want a bulletproof bottom end that can take it


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[RBB]

I know but I’ve reached my financial limit it makes enough power with the Gen2R and supporting mods just want a bulletproof bottom end that can take it


Sent from my iPhone using the svtperformance.com mobile app

Understood....we all have a budget we have to stick to. If you can somehow swing it, though, I would seriously consider adding some L&M NSR cams....it would be a shame to have the engine out and torn down and not do cams. If you can't make it happen, I'd drop the billet fuel rails and add billet secondary cam sprockets, HD secondary chains and an upgraded passenger side tensioner. It will only add a couple hundred bucks to the total there, pretty much a wash.

 

[RedVenom48]

Pistons, rods, oil pump and timing system should be priorities. Fuel rails are good when youre switching to E85 or have a high fuel flow requirement.

Cant open the file at work, but did you need any head repairs?

 

[nickstobias]

Pistons, rods, oil pump and timing system should be priorities. Fuel rails are good when youre switching to E85 or have a high fuel flow requirement.

Cant open the file at work, but did you need any head repairs?

Won’t know till the heads come off


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[blowbye]

Welcome to the rabbit hole

 

[14trinitygt500]

My best advice is do everything to the long block you can while it's out. Call Mike at l and m engines. Very knowledgeable in building these motors. He has built a motor for me and did a great job. Being on a budget is going to hurt you later trust me. On motor #3 I finally learned my lesson. Spend the money now while your down.

 

[RBB]

My best advice is do everything to the long block you can while it's out. Call Mike at l and m engines. Very knowledgeable in building these motors. He has built a motor for me and did a great job. Being on a budget is going to hurt you later trust me. On motor #3 I finally learned my lesson. Spend the money now while your down.

I'll disagree with this. Everyone has a budget and unless this is an all out race build that's not an issue. There are certain components (timing in particular) that shouldn't be overlooked even if that means going slightly over, but he can't spend money that he doesn't have. L&M is at the very top of the hill when it comes to pricing. Probably not feasible for OP to have them build a motor for him. Bottom line, be smart and don't cheap out on the necessary upgrades for your application....and most importantly have an experienced builder put the engine together for you. Absolutely do not let a shop with little to no experience on Ford Modulars build the short block or assemble the long block, that's when bad things happen.

 

[14trinitygt500]

I'll disagree with this. Everyone has a budget and unless this is an all out race build that's not an issue. There are certain components (timing in particular) that shouldn't be overlooked even if that means going slightly over, but he can't spend money that he doesn't have. L&M is at the very top of the hill when it comes to pricing. Probably not feasible for OP to have them build a motor for him. Bottom line, be smart and don't cheap out on the necessary upgrades for your application....and most importantly have an experienced builder put the engine together for you. Absolutely do not let a shop with little to no experience on Ford Modulars build the short block or assemble the long block, that's when bad things happen.

The post was asking for advice. Not if you agree or disagree. Speaking with a very knowledgable engine builder doesn't cost you a dime. Just some time out of your day. Just saying unless you yourself build these engines on a daily basis? I'm thinking Mike's advice would carry much more than yours.

 

[RBB]

The post was asking for advice. Not if you agree or disagree. Speaking with a very knowledgable engine builder doesn't cost you a dime. Just some time out of your day. Just saying unless you yourself build these engines on a daily basis? I'm thinking Mike's advice would carry much more than yours.

Obviously Rauscher's advice carries much more weight than mine. Did I claim otherwise? L&M is a great shop, I didn't dispute that. Your advice was basically screw the budget, "do everything you can now". That isn't feasible for OP right now, and that's what I'm disagreeing with. He's stretching himself thin to do a bare bones rebuild, so he needs some practical advice....not screw it, call L&M and go all out.

Why waste L&M's and OP's time calling L&M when you know they're not even going to be in consideration for doing the build? OP is looking for a pretty basic rebuild here, not a max effort race build. There are plenty of shops out there that can competently handle it for a much better price than L&M.

 

[14trinitygt500]

No much with arguing with people who don't understand. Your completely right man. Great post very helpful