Tubular K Member Pros/Cons

[RazorGTP]

So, what are the pros and cons of getting a tubular K member and rad support versus stock.

Obviously weight, ease of maintenance. What do you notice differently on the street or highway? Louder? Manners?

 

[Cman01]

As you know I did my BMR K member over the winter. Now that I've driven my car off and on over the last few months I don't really have any cons.

Yes, there is a bit more vibration usually on a cold start since I feel the poly mounts are hard and eventually they soften up a bit with heat in the engine compartment then it's just like stock to me.

I have a minor dash rattle that I am chasing down right now but it only makes noise on that initial take off from a dead stop when engaging the clutch in that instant, once I get going no noise. It's not to the point of annoying but I will find it and sort it out.

Other than that...…………...no issues. Once I can lift up my car with my Quickjack lift I'm checking all my fasteners again (especially the engine mount ones) then I'm good to go.

I use the Steeda lower rad support...………..no issues with that either and I tie them both together with the BMR CB004 brace and also my Steeda K member brace to the control arm mounts, again no issues with that either.

 

[RazorGTP]

As you know I did my BMR K member over the winter. Now that I've driven my car off and on over the last few months I don't really have any cons.

Yes, there is a bit more vibration usually on a cold start since I feel the poly mounts are hard and eventually they soften up a bit with heat in the engine compartment then it's just like stock to me.

I have a minor dash rattle that I am chasing down right now but it only makes noise on that initial take off from a dead stop when engaging the clutch in that instant, once I get going no noise. It's not to the point of annoying but I will find it and sort it out.

Other than that...…………...no issues. Once I can lift up my car with my Quickjack lift I'm checking all my fasteners again (especially the engine mount ones) then I'm good to go.

I use the Steeda lower rad support...………..no issues with that either and I tie them both together with the BMR CB004 brace and also my Steeda K member brace to the control arm mounts, again no issues with that either.

View attachment 1504914

Excellent thanks for sharing the experience! So you have the BMR kmember, BMR brace, steeda rad supports, steeda kmember brace? Any reason why you didn’t go with all the same brand? Do you need those braces? How was the install?

 

[Cman01]

I had the Steeda stuff for a few years already before I did the K so I just reused them. I had researched beforehand with Kelly at BMR to make sure they would work before buying their K member.

The BMR brace replaces the Z brace so it keeps the front end stiff. It also allows u to reinstall the splash shields with minor modding to them. I have a post done about it do a search.

 

[biminiLX]

I run just the BMR K-member and the Steeda radiator support.
I do think the poly engine mounts added NVH but for how rowdy the rest of the car is, it makes little difference.
I'd recommend both upgrades.
I'd recommend keeping the front sway bar as the car drives poorly on the front wide street rubber without it.
-J

 

[Beercules]

Also, easier access around the engine and it doesn't eat sockets/ bolts/ nuts anymore! Can drop the pan without separating engine and k member.

Cons:bmr might be a little more flexy around corners if you do autox etc.

 

[Catmonkey]

I'm running the Maximum Motorsport K. It's not a lightweight piece, as their goal was strength/stiffness and improved geometry. It can use the stock a-arms and motor mounts which are usually the components that introduce more NVH into the chassis. But you can still mount up aftermarket poly bushings and motor mounts if you so choose. The change in access below the engine is a very nice benefit. With the stock K, I frequently dropped a motor mount shim (1/4" biscuit on adjustable mounts) down into the k-member and spent a lot of time fishing it out with a wire.

 

[RazorGTP]

Thanks for all the replies guys! I might just tackle this over the winter!

 

[Catmonkey]

Regardless which K you use, Maximum Motorsports makes a support beam that bolts between the strut towers. It's pretty inexpensive and I'd recommend using it. I used a bottle jack under a piece of wood that fit the bottom of the oil pan and used that to lift the engine. I then used a few ratchet straps with the support beam to keep the engine from falling, possibly on me, if it fell off the jack. Without the engine mounts holding it, it's a little wobbly. I left the jack in place while I swapped out the member. I did the whole operation myself with a floor jack, but having a helper wouldn't hurt either. This was a one day job, although my car was already on stands with the front tires removed.

Tob has a really good thread on his install of the MM K-member in the original GT500 forum, that might be of benefit with any K-member install. EPAS just makes it a little easier, IMO. As a side note, it took Maximium quite a while to offer all the pieces it intended to supplement the K-member, but they're all available now. If they do intend to offer an SLA provision it's still in development.

 

[Cman01]

I don't know how much that support beam is from MM but if you have a bike riding buddy (or neighbour in my case), borrow their motorcycle lift and use that to support the engine when you pull out the K member.

My engine stayed in the original spot, it never moved at all when I put my BMR in. I was reading a lot of stuff with squaring the K to the car and what not but I figure...………...I don't think Ford squares their stock K when they are bolted to the car at the factory so if you remove it but make sure your engine doesn't move and you put the K back on ALA you can line up your engine mount bolts the rest of the K will bolt up where it was in the OE position.

After I did my K, my steering wheel was still straight and all the K member bolts lined up perfect just like before. Keeping the engine in place with that motorcycle lift was worth its weight in gold to make sure all the parts went back on like factory.

edit: that lift also worked great when I installed the VMP HE, I pulled out my stock HE then got the VMP one in place after screwing in the mounting bolts. The VMP was placed on the lift and I just cranked it up till it lined up with my bolts and mounted it on. I didn't have to worry about damage to the fins if you were just lifting it in place while holding it the install of the HE was a lot easier using the lift.

 

[Catmonkey]

I don't know how much that support beam is from MM ...

Under $50 plus the ride. Cheaper if you get it with the K-member. I often times take safety issues to a fault, but so far I've survived 64 years without so much as a broken bone.

 

[RazorGTP]

Regardless which K you use, Maximum Motorsports makes a support beam that bolts between the strut towers. It's pretty inexpensive and I'd recommend using it. I used a bottle jack under a piece of wood that fit the bottom of the oil pan and used that to lift the engine. I then used a few ratchet straps with the support beam to keep the engine from falling, possibly on me, if it fell off the jack. Without the engine mounts holding it, it's a little wobbly. I left the jack in place while I swapped out the member. I did the whole operation myself with a floor jack, but having a helper wouldn't hurt either. This was a one day job, although my car was already on stands with the front tires removed.

Tob has a really good thread on his install of the MM K-member in the original GT500 forum, that might be of benefit with any K-member install. EPAS just makes it a little easier, IMO. As a side note, it took Maximium quite a while to offer all the pieces it intended to supplement the K-member, but they're all available now. If they do intend to offer an SLA provision it's still in development.

Thanks for sharing your experience, I will do more research in the next few months and will refer back to this thread (which I will probably revive with more questions for you.)

I don't know how much that support beam is from MM but if you have a bike riding buddy (or neighbour in my case), borrow their motorcycle lift and use that to support the engine when you pull out the K member.

View attachment 1507449

My engine stayed in the original spot, it never moved at all when I put my BMR in. I was reading a lot of stuff with squaring the K to the car and what not but I figure...………...I don't think Ford squares their stock K when they are bolted to the car at the factory so if you remove it but make sure your engine doesn't move and you put the K back on ALA you can line up your engine mount bolts the rest of the K will bolt up where it was in the OE position.

After I did my K, my steering wheel was still straight and all the K member bolts lined up perfect just like before. Keeping the engine in place with that motorcycle lift was worth its weight in gold to make sure all the parts went back on like factory.

edit: that lift also worked great when I installed the VMP HE, I pulled out my stock HE then got the VMP one in place after screwing in the mounting bolts. The VMP was placed on the lift and I just cranked it up till it lined up with my bolts and mounted it on. I didn't have to worry about damage to the fins if you were just lifting it in place while holding it the install of the HE was a lot easier using the lift.

Excellent thanks again! Same deal, I will probably revive this thread with more questions for you in the next few months. I just did my vmp HE in 2-3hrs with no issues using my race ramps.