This write up is for removing the driver side valve cover. This posed to be the hardest part of the whole project for me, so I decided to write this so you don’t have to go through all the frustration I went through trying to get it off. There is another good write up (http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/how-230/613611-how-valve-cover-install.html) that covers the passenger side and driver side, which I used part of to get mine off. I found it difficult to follow because there wasn’t any detailed pictures or any direction to parts that some may not know how to identify.
TOOLS:
-Needle nose Pliers (or regular if thats all you have)
-1/4" socket elbow and socket wrench
-2 4" 1/4 socket extensions
-14 socket & 14mm deep socket
-13, 14, & 15mm wrenches (15 not totally necessary)
-Magnetic Antenna Thingy (just in case you drop a bolt and cant reach it... I used it once - not totally necessary)
1. Reference this write up to guide you through removing your intake, throttle body and plenum.
http://svtperformance.com/forums/how-230/266805-how-blower-removal.html - you only need up til step 5
2. Remove the spark plug/coil pack cover by taking out the 2 bolts that hold it in.
3. Unplug the harness from each of the coil packs. Move the harness out of the way.
4. Pull out all the coil packs and place them aside.
5. Remove the bolts that hold the Valve cover to the head of the engine. It is held in by 8 bolts (clearly visible) and 2 in the front of the valve cover. The upper bolt is covered by a plastic connection that holds a wire harness. Pull the wire harness to expose the bolt.
6. Use a flat head screw driver to pry the valve cover off the engine. Its being held down with RTV.
7. I found that there was a wire in my way that was holding down the valve cover, so I reached around and unplugged it. This allowed me an easier time getting it off. You may be able to just move it aside. I unplugged it. (get pic)
DONE WITH THE PASSENGER SIDE.
Now for the hard part…
1. Repeat steps 2 -5.
2. Remove the bolts that hold the power steering fluid reservoir in place. This will allow for more room to work the valve cover off.
NOTE: Pics were taken after I finished... so the bolts are already removed. Also, I removed a pulley so that I wouldn't scratch it while trying to take off the bolt.
Now for some background information…
The silver cylinder with the plastic reservoir on top is the "Master Cylinder".
The black part that its connected to is the Brake booster.
The brake booster goes from the back of the Master Cylinder all the way to the firewall. You will NOT be disassembling it.
For the life of my, I could not figure out how to unplug the connector that goes into the side of the Master cylinder reservoir, so I left it plugged it. It made it a tad more difficult because it took up valuable space where moving the valve cover, but I managed. I’m sure I put an extra strain on it by pushing and pulling up against it. If anyone knows how to unplug it, please feel free to tell me and I will add it to this write up. Reference the above pic of the master cylinder for a clear view of the top, but here are some pics of the bottom. (I had to wait til I got the valve cover off before I snapped these pics.)
1. Remove the two bolts that hold the master cylinder to the Brake booster.
I found this to be the easiest with a 14mm wrench. It was a pain, and the turns were slow, but you’ll get it off. After it was loose, I used a 15mm because it was easier to go on and had enough teeth to turn it.
2. At the firewall/back of the Brake booster, you’ll see a square plate. Remove the bottom left bolt. I used 2 4in extensions and a 14mm deep socket. Removing this now will eliminate having to get in and out of the car.
(get pic)
3. Go inside the car and get down by the pedals. You will now be removing the 3 remaining bolts that hold the Brake booster to the firewall. 2 of them are not that bad at reaching, but the 3rd requires removal of other things first, so that’s what we’ll do – move the other stuff to expose the 3rd bolt.
4. At this point, I have no idea what these things are called, so I’ve provided pictures pointing to the things that I am telling you to remove. We will primarily be working from the Brake Pedal.
5. Unsnap the long plastic piece from what its attached to, just by pushing it back.
6. Disconnect this connector from this square thing.
7. Use some needle nose pliers or whatever you have (pliers) to remove this coddar pin.
8. Remove the white washer that sit around the thing you pulled the coddar pin out of.
9. Now this thing:
Still on the car:
Off the car:
It is hung around the metal rod but the rod also goes through it. (you can see its design -what I'm trying to describe to you from the pictures above). You have to grab the rod that’s coming out of the firewall that attaches to the brake pedal and slide it to the right (towards the gas pedal.) This will allow for the circle part to get out from around the metal rod. Now you should be able to unhook it from the metal rod. Set it aside.
10. If you use your finger or something to move the black wire out of the way, you should be able to see the 3rd bolt (Top left bolt).
I’m not going to sit here and tell you it was easy getting it out. I stretched my socket up there and got a hold of it and backed it out. I used 2 extensions, deep socket and a flexible neck. Here’s my setup.
11. Now that’s done, back to getting the Brake booster loose. Back to the brake pedal…
12. There still shouldn’t be any play between the metal rod and the rod that comes out of the firewall. That’s because there is a black plastic sleeve that is also in there. If you push the rod that comes out of the firewall back to its original place, the sleeve should separate. Here’s a picture of it:
Pushed in (original position)
After pulling the rod or shaft towards the gas pedal and pushing it back to its original position:
13. After the sleeve is removed, you should be able remove the rod. BUT NOT YET! Push down on the brake pedal so the brake pedal will push the rod leading into the Brake booster in (toward the engine bay).
14. If you get out of the car and look under your hood, you should see the square plate separate from the firewall. I went back inside the car and took the rod off the brake pedal and sat it behind the little silver rod (with the hole that the coder pin came out of) and pushed on the brake pedal again. I wanted to make sure it was as far out as it can go.
15. Return to the engine bay and move the Brake booster to the right as much as it can go. I had a whole helluva lot of trouble because I was going at it blind… Its not gonna move that far out the way. It will however give you enough space to pull the valve cover off. (The valve cover isn’t going to clear it without touching it -at least it didn’t for me-, but as I pulled the valve cover towards it, it gave just enough for me to get by it. But we’re not there yet.(get pic) We need to first undo this cirlce thing:
16. Go back into the car and undo the cable for the clutch. It is attached to the quadrant. Here’s a pic.
The arriow is pointing to the end of the cable and the circle is showing where it was originally. You're arrow should be in the circle. (my pics were after I got it loose.)
I pulled the small part away from the big wheel and pushed the big wheel up so it would allow enough play in the cable to unhook it from the front of the quadrant. Its sort of like undoing the throttle cable from the throttle body. (IF anyone has a better way of explaining this, please feel free to pm me and I will add it here.)
17. After the cable is unhooked, go into the engine bay and pull the circle out from around the hooks, and pull the cable. This will allow you to move the circle part away from the firewall. Don’t pull it too hard… the cable should not come through the firewall. You just want the circle out of the way so you can lift the valve cover.
18. After that, you just have to work the valve cover off. I’m not sure if the way mine came off is the right way or the best way, but it’s the way that worked for me.
:thumbsup:
I hope this helped give someone insight into get things out of the way.
Good luck.
TOOLS:
-Needle nose Pliers (or regular if thats all you have)
-1/4" socket elbow and socket wrench
-2 4" 1/4 socket extensions
-14 socket & 14mm deep socket
-13, 14, & 15mm wrenches (15 not totally necessary)
-Magnetic Antenna Thingy (just in case you drop a bolt and cant reach it... I used it once - not totally necessary)
1. Reference this write up to guide you through removing your intake, throttle body and plenum.
http://svtperformance.com/forums/how-230/266805-how-blower-removal.html - you only need up til step 5
2. Remove the spark plug/coil pack cover by taking out the 2 bolts that hold it in.
3. Unplug the harness from each of the coil packs. Move the harness out of the way.
4. Pull out all the coil packs and place them aside.
5. Remove the bolts that hold the Valve cover to the head of the engine. It is held in by 8 bolts (clearly visible) and 2 in the front of the valve cover. The upper bolt is covered by a plastic connection that holds a wire harness. Pull the wire harness to expose the bolt.
6. Use a flat head screw driver to pry the valve cover off the engine. Its being held down with RTV.
7. I found that there was a wire in my way that was holding down the valve cover, so I reached around and unplugged it. This allowed me an easier time getting it off. You may be able to just move it aside. I unplugged it. (get pic)
DONE WITH THE PASSENGER SIDE.
Now for the hard part…
1. Repeat steps 2 -5.
2. Remove the bolts that hold the power steering fluid reservoir in place. This will allow for more room to work the valve cover off.
NOTE: Pics were taken after I finished... so the bolts are already removed. Also, I removed a pulley so that I wouldn't scratch it while trying to take off the bolt.
Now for some background information…
The silver cylinder with the plastic reservoir on top is the "Master Cylinder".
The black part that its connected to is the Brake booster.
The brake booster goes from the back of the Master Cylinder all the way to the firewall. You will NOT be disassembling it.
For the life of my, I could not figure out how to unplug the connector that goes into the side of the Master cylinder reservoir, so I left it plugged it. It made it a tad more difficult because it took up valuable space where moving the valve cover, but I managed. I’m sure I put an extra strain on it by pushing and pulling up against it. If anyone knows how to unplug it, please feel free to tell me and I will add it to this write up. Reference the above pic of the master cylinder for a clear view of the top, but here are some pics of the bottom. (I had to wait til I got the valve cover off before I snapped these pics.)
1. Remove the two bolts that hold the master cylinder to the Brake booster.
I found this to be the easiest with a 14mm wrench. It was a pain, and the turns were slow, but you’ll get it off. After it was loose, I used a 15mm because it was easier to go on and had enough teeth to turn it.
2. At the firewall/back of the Brake booster, you’ll see a square plate. Remove the bottom left bolt. I used 2 4in extensions and a 14mm deep socket. Removing this now will eliminate having to get in and out of the car.
(get pic)
3. Go inside the car and get down by the pedals. You will now be removing the 3 remaining bolts that hold the Brake booster to the firewall. 2 of them are not that bad at reaching, but the 3rd requires removal of other things first, so that’s what we’ll do – move the other stuff to expose the 3rd bolt.
4. At this point, I have no idea what these things are called, so I’ve provided pictures pointing to the things that I am telling you to remove. We will primarily be working from the Brake Pedal.
5. Unsnap the long plastic piece from what its attached to, just by pushing it back.
6. Disconnect this connector from this square thing.
7. Use some needle nose pliers or whatever you have (pliers) to remove this coddar pin.
8. Remove the white washer that sit around the thing you pulled the coddar pin out of.
9. Now this thing:
Still on the car:
Off the car:
It is hung around the metal rod but the rod also goes through it. (you can see its design -what I'm trying to describe to you from the pictures above). You have to grab the rod that’s coming out of the firewall that attaches to the brake pedal and slide it to the right (towards the gas pedal.) This will allow for the circle part to get out from around the metal rod. Now you should be able to unhook it from the metal rod. Set it aside.
10. If you use your finger or something to move the black wire out of the way, you should be able to see the 3rd bolt (Top left bolt).
I’m not going to sit here and tell you it was easy getting it out. I stretched my socket up there and got a hold of it and backed it out. I used 2 extensions, deep socket and a flexible neck. Here’s my setup.
11. Now that’s done, back to getting the Brake booster loose. Back to the brake pedal…
12. There still shouldn’t be any play between the metal rod and the rod that comes out of the firewall. That’s because there is a black plastic sleeve that is also in there. If you push the rod that comes out of the firewall back to its original place, the sleeve should separate. Here’s a picture of it:
Pushed in (original position)
After pulling the rod or shaft towards the gas pedal and pushing it back to its original position:
13. After the sleeve is removed, you should be able remove the rod. BUT NOT YET! Push down on the brake pedal so the brake pedal will push the rod leading into the Brake booster in (toward the engine bay).
14. If you get out of the car and look under your hood, you should see the square plate separate from the firewall. I went back inside the car and took the rod off the brake pedal and sat it behind the little silver rod (with the hole that the coder pin came out of) and pushed on the brake pedal again. I wanted to make sure it was as far out as it can go.
15. Return to the engine bay and move the Brake booster to the right as much as it can go. I had a whole helluva lot of trouble because I was going at it blind… Its not gonna move that far out the way. It will however give you enough space to pull the valve cover off. (The valve cover isn’t going to clear it without touching it -at least it didn’t for me-, but as I pulled the valve cover towards it, it gave just enough for me to get by it. But we’re not there yet.(get pic) We need to first undo this cirlce thing:
16. Go back into the car and undo the cable for the clutch. It is attached to the quadrant. Here’s a pic.
The arriow is pointing to the end of the cable and the circle is showing where it was originally. You're arrow should be in the circle. (my pics were after I got it loose.)
I pulled the small part away from the big wheel and pushed the big wheel up so it would allow enough play in the cable to unhook it from the front of the quadrant. Its sort of like undoing the throttle cable from the throttle body. (IF anyone has a better way of explaining this, please feel free to pm me and I will add it here.)
17. After the cable is unhooked, go into the engine bay and pull the circle out from around the hooks, and pull the cable. This will allow you to move the circle part away from the firewall. Don’t pull it too hard… the cable should not come through the firewall. You just want the circle out of the way so you can lift the valve cover.
18. After that, you just have to work the valve cover off. I’m not sure if the way mine came off is the right way or the best way, but it’s the way that worked for me.
:thumbsup:
I hope this helped give someone insight into get things out of the way.
Good luck.
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