What mods can I do next???

[CD07GT500]

Better T/B & aluminium D/S. Use better fuel like MS109 for race events.

Would not waste time with porting or other high dollar low performance gain items.

 

[GT500_012308]

Better T/B? Like which one? I have the VMP dual 67mm now


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[PistolWhip]

DD149 MAF / intake and Whipple elipticle TB. You’re already probably reaching the limits of the stock bottom end with pump fuel. I think the guys that are talking weight loss, as specially rotating weight loss, are giving you some good advice. Put all the power you’re making to the ground and ease the burden on the drivetrain at the same time.

 

[RedVenom48]

Better T/B? Like which one? I have the VMP dual 67mm now


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With your setup? A monoblade all the way. They can feel different than a twin jet; feels a little flat off idle and when out of boost. At least, my Whipple 170 does. Tuned by Lund.

Brother, when that bypass valve closes and you send boost down the tube... hold on! A twin has excellent driveability, and helps with intake velocity when the bypass valve is open. But when the supercharger is doing its thing, even the twin 67 can be a restriction. Especially on a IIR with a 2.4 and headers combo. A monoblade TB at WOT has zero restriction from the MAF sensor to the rotor pack. Your headers make it so there is no restriction after the combustion chamber (with the added bonus of scavenging).

My Whipple 170 oval monoblade even woke up my little M122 stock blower!

My opinion:

Aluminum or CF driveshaft
DD149 PMAS intake from 1320 Junkie performance (facebook)
Monoblade
Thump or VMP tensioner
BPS Auxillary pulley for better belt wrap at the pulley.

Whipple makes a good monoblade as does Kenne Bell. The Ford Racing Monoblade is a good, solid choice but it has the lowest flow of the 3. Cant go wrong with any of em.

Talk to you tuner and see what he has tuned and make your choice from there.

@PistolWhip is definitely right. You are on the edge of what stock rods can safely hold. Solid car though man, Ill get there someday lol.

 

[Catmonkey]

I f you go mono, don't get rid of the 67mm twin. You might make 10-15 more horsepower on the top end, but running on the street, you might not take advantage of peak power often and may be giving up some better manners. A TB swap and tune change is a pretty easy procedure when you want to get serious.

 

[GT500_012308]

Cool, great info everyone. Also I already have a metco AUX idler.

Are doing the others worth it? The acc idlers?

Now the question is CF DS or Aluminum

 

[Catmonkey]

The idlers are really a band aid to a smaller upper pulley without going to a smaller belt to take up the slack in the belt. Granted a smaller upper pulley has less surface area for the belt to contact and the reason I think the auxiliary idler is a better choice. You would either use one of the other.

 

[RedVenom48]

Cool, great info everyone. Also I already have a metco AUX idler.

Are doing the others worth it? The acc idlers?

Now the question is CF DS or Aluminum

For the longest time, I was opposed to CF driveshafts. But after seeing these cars on the road with factory and aftermarket CF shafts surviving debris strikes and all the other joys of street driving, ID say youd be good to go with a CF drive shaft.

I have a DSS Aluminum shaft and its been problem free for me. I even had a UCA poly bushing fail catastrophically at a prepped track on launch. DS made contact with the floorpan in the back from how violently the poly failed and it was just fine.

If I had to do it again? Id probably go CF. But Ive got no plans to ditch my aluminum DSS until I need to.

 

[GT500_012308]

I’m good with that then already have the metco aux idler like I said

Think I’m gonna do the CF DS and get a tensioner see how it feels and go from there


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[gimmie11s]

Fuel...e85.
Anything else isn’t worth mentioning.

However, a return style system would be required.

100% truth.

Fuel system to support E85. If the blower is a 2R I personally wouldn't waste money on a port.

E85, 10% lower, and a 2.4 will get damn near or at 800 wheel.

You'd have a monster on your hands.

 

[GT500_012308]

Yea but wouldn’t stock motor go BOOM


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[gimmie11s]

Keep her at 6500 rpm and it'll live.

 

[nickstobias]

I have the same setup but I blew my motor 1 year after doing modifications, I know everyone’s situation is a little different but when modding a car you are always at risk putting stress on a stock motor.


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[biminiLX]

I'm still a bit confused by this thread.
You have an '11 with a VMP Gen 2R and it feels slow?
Have you had it dyno tuned?
Datalogged?
Based on the posts, I'd upgrade the driveshaft and then see if there's any issues with your current mods.
Between dyno, datalogs and drag strip trap mph, you will know if underperforming.
Your current mods are at factory limits for the rods or can be easily.
What are your goals with the car?

-J

 

[GT500_012308]

Yea it made right at 700whp

I drove it yesterday and noticed belt slip so ordering the tensioner and getting a DS.

I just wanted the car to be quicker and eventually I’m gonna build the motor but just felt slow to me I thought with the Blower and stuff it would feel much faster but maybe it’s just me. Haven’t really ran anyone to see how it matches up to other stuff I could dyno it.

It’s been data logged and looked at with all that because my tune needed touched up for drive-ability but nothing going on there.

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[cgaulzetti]

I’ve got a 2008 GT500 that we did a TVS in, a bunch of suspension stuff, a giant heat exchanger, BAP, 1090 injectors, a Macleod RXT clutch and I’ve still got to get around to either selling or installing my fays2 Watts link.
I just made the best handling mod though and could not be happier with how this thing corners- I installed 18x10 wheels all around and nitto 275/40/18 NT01 tires. These things hook up great in straight line, and the car turns like a sports car. Between the Coilovers and the LCAs and UCAs and now the tires- I think I have the best handling GT500 around.
I also just got some 18x11 forgestar custom CF5 wheels and I installed some Hoosier Slicks made for Continental Superspeedway Daytona cars. These are not road tires at all and I haven’t had a chance to take the car to the track yet with them- but suffice it to say the closer you can get to putting race tires on your car the faster it will go. The difference between an NT01 in a wide square set-up versus the stock staggered stuff most folks run is worth far more than an extra 100 hp.

 

[cgaulzetti]

Next up for me is to finally gut the interior and install my cage and corbeau seats and my Barton shifter. Then we’ll throw the JBA catless x-pipe on and put some mufflers back on the car and take her back to the dyno.