Anyone?
Yes, you could try that or flip the top mounts 180 degrees.
Anyone?
switching from sportlines to sp009's and dspecs to viking d/a's (keeping dspecs out front) , other suspension parts are bmr lcarb(welded in), upr lca's hiem joint on both ends, spherical diff bushing, poly uca with mount that keeps it at stock location. looking for a baseline for the vikings and which hole on lcarbs
Nice to meet you today Kelly, already have an appointment with racing integration to put all those new shinny goodies in!
Hey guys is it true that if we spin our upper strut mounts it will fix our negative camber?On my 2011 I had full coilovers.But on the 13 Im going with 1.5" drop for now.
Installed eibach shocks/pro springs and my alignment is within spec but a bit off in the front (-.9 passenger side, -1.4 driver side). How do I get the driver side alignment to match the passenger side? It doesn't look like there is any camber adjustment but I was wondering if I loosened the spindle nuts and kind of banged it out a bit more it would shore up some of that negative camber. Thoughts?
I think Vorshlag runs like -3° or so camber on their shop carKelly, what's your recommendation for caster and camber settings on the S197 for handling? I've heard max POSITIVE matching caster and -1.5 camber. The -1.5 camber sounds about right, but that caster setting is contrary to most of what I've been taught. I've been told that max NEGATIVE matching caster is best for turn-in speed and steering feel. This may be more applicable to cars other than Mustangs, but that's just what I've always seen in my limited dealings with performance autox/road race alignments. Thoughts?
Kelly, what's your recommendation for caster and camber settings on the S197 for handling? I've heard max POSITIVE matching caster and -1.5 camber. The -1.5 camber sounds about right, but that caster setting is contrary to most of what I've been taught. I've been told that max NEGATIVE matching caster is best for turn-in speed and steering feel. This may be more applicable to cars other than Mustangs, but that's just what I've always seen in my limited dealings with performance autox/road race alignments. Thoughts?
I think Vorshlag runs like -3° or so camber on their shop car
In your case, I would loosen the driver side lower strut/spindle pieces....pull the TOP of the spindle OUT as much as possible....and have a second hand tighten the hardware down. It should get you to -1.1 range; possibly even within the same range as the pass side.
Just to be sure, maybe I have this backwards, do you want the strut leaning to the back or the front for the caster setting? Maybe I've just mixed up positive and negative caster over the years and I'm actually trying to say the same thing as you guys. Thank you both for your recommendations!
Got a quick question.
Having read many, many good reviews, as well as your advice in many threads, I recently ordered and installed:
CAB005
TCA019
PHR006
UCM002
UTCA03
This is all on my '13 GT, which sits on Koni Yellows and Steeda Ultralites.
I've seen you mention in this thread that the stock bushing in the diff will play havoc with the poly bushing in the UCA. Is this something I need to address ASAP? Or is it only for those cars that see lots of track time?
You've recommended this combo many times, so I didn't order the diff bushing thinking it wouldn't be totally necessary (and, admittedly, because it looks like a total PITA to get out).